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Need some advice - Baseboard Basement Heat
wendaxo
Member Posts: 3
I am looking for a solution to an ongoing heating dilema. I own a raised ranch home. The boiler is on the second floor and it is (natural gas) baseboard hotwater heat. We have been told by experts that the boiler is large enough to have additional heat. Originally the house was an open 1st floor level, dirt floor. It sits on corner concrete blocks.. See diagram. (not an artist)
We've run copper lines already. They go up and down (we call then drops) over doorways, and block pilons. See diagram
The first example is as if you'd be looking at the top of the floor. The second is an example of how the lines are run if you were looking straight on.
We are concerned of air pockets because of so many up's and downs... I've been asked why we run the majority of the lines up high in the rafter area, and my response is because otherwise you'd see the copper line along the bottom of the floor because the areas that are stud wall is where the heat run will go. The rest is block pilon.
I need to know if a professional would consider this a bad idea, and how would you correct it? I obviously cannot run the copper lines through block wall sideways? Help? Looking for someone willing to take on this project also. We've done most of the work, just need someone to tie it in and add a zone. Please advise
We've run copper lines already. They go up and down (we call then drops) over doorways, and block pilons. See diagram
The first example is as if you'd be looking at the top of the floor. The second is an example of how the lines are run if you were looking straight on.
We are concerned of air pockets because of so many up's and downs... I've been asked why we run the majority of the lines up high in the rafter area, and my response is because otherwise you'd see the copper line along the bottom of the floor because the areas that are stud wall is where the heat run will go. The rest is block pilon.
I need to know if a professional would consider this a bad idea, and how would you correct it? I obviously cannot run the copper lines through block wall sideways? Help? Looking for someone willing to take on this project also. We've done most of the work, just need someone to tie it in and add a zone. Please advise
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Comments
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I am by no means a hydronic expert...
(vapour steam is my thing) but, having said that, I have a feeling that you may have some trouble getting all the air out of the tops of those loops up and down. Hopefully an hydronics person will come onto this -- but I'd be inclined to wonder if you might not need air bleeders at the tops of those things.
Also, are all the baseboard units in series? Again, an hydronic expert will be better placed to comment, but you may have some difficulty in getting even heat, unless the temperature drop through this circuit is rather small...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Thanks - Another Solution?
Thanks for replying. That is what I am afraid of. We've already run over $800 worth of copper, but now I am considering other options. Natural Gas in our area is the most cost effective, so I'd like to continue using that source.
Wishing now before concrete was poured we'd looked into Radiant Heat floor heat. Our walls are made up of studding and block... and they are not drywalled yet until we figure out what to do.
Do you have any other suggestions for heat? We currently run a gas vented heater to keep pipes from freezing, but constant gas use is not the way I want to go. Additionally, since we live primarily on the second level, (1st is a rec room) my code office is saying I must still vent even ventless heaters? WTH?
I'd love to be able to tie from the boiler. As you can tell, I am the female and really not knowledged in what to do, but I need to know how to communicate with someone who can do the work as to what I want. Got any more advice? What is vapor heat?
Oh yea, the copper loops are in a series starting from point A going around down and up's and then meets back to point A. It makes a full circuit around the room meeting back at A. If that makes sense.0 -
It should work fine
If the boiler is piped for proper air elimination and the new zone has purge valves, you shouldn't have any problems getting the air out of that zone. I have been in houses that had basement heat installed in this manner, and it worked fine.
If you were worried about air you could use a baseboard elbow at the top of the pilons/doorways and install a coin vent...but I don't think it will be necessary.
Is the basement open or separated into rooms?0 -
Thank you Robert
Thank you Robert. Most areas are open except for a small bedroom and bathroom. The rest are open. I'd say 65% anyway.
That information helps. Whats the worst that can happen ehh?0
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