on bended knees!

tonya

I don't know why this is so difficult, and after going page by page of the "installation and operation" manual for the Burnham gas boiler I am now in fetal position.

The (red) valves that straddle the water gauge were closed the day before, and as a result, there is water on the floor under this gas boiler.

The problem began when one or both of the red valves on top and below the sight glass were closed. Now, I just need to know if I open both the red valves now, can I set the water correctly in the sight glass using the yellow lever that brings water into the system. I do not want to flood it or mess it up further.

The system is around 10 years old and I am helping a friend in need. It is the blind leading the blind. I am sorry I can not better explain but searching for diagrams with all the proper names has been challenging as well. Going back now to see what has happened....

Roland_18

DON'T PANIC !!!!

Hi Tonya,

Don't panic, you came to the right place. Someone will be along shortly to help you.

I don't have any credentials with heating systems but it sounds like you are dealing with a steam system as you refered to a water gauge.

Those small valves above and below the sight glass must be open in order to show you how much water is in the boiler. I'm guessing the yellow valve is a fill valve. If one or both of the red gauge valves were closed and you added water to the system, how would you know when the water line was correct? You wouldn't.

The boiler COULD be leaking due to internal damage OR maybe it was just over-filled.

Hold tight, there are incredably smart and generous professionals who post here.

tonya

Thank you Roland!!

I really appreciate you reaching out to me this morning Roland!!  78 folks and counting have read my post so far...

tonya

Both valves need to be open

So I figure out that both valves need to be open, but I still am unsure why the water in the sight glass is going down so quickly when I open them both. I did quickly closed them again b/c the water line dropped but maybe I just needed to let them open and then fill it up again with the yellow lever at the top of the system.

I am going back to the property now and hopefully my friend will allow me to call a plumber. After 80 some reads and only you responding Roland I am thinking that most professionals reading my post only spit out their morning coffee laughing or just and mumbled to themselves I am a dumb*** LOL. Who knows! Alas, you are my only friend out here Roland!!!!

BobC

Pictures and how much

As Roland said both thiose red valves have to be open so the gauge glass can see the water in the boiler. They are closed only if the gauge glass is being removed for cleaning or replacement.



What make and model is this boiler and how old is it? Can you post some pictures of the boiler and the piping that comes and goes from it?



Sometimes a seal on the gauge glass fails and you end up with a leak at that point, check to see if water is dripping from the gauge glass area. See if you can determine where the water might be coming from, use a paper towel to see if there is evidence of water around and pipes or valves that go into the boiler. Also how much water are we talking about?



You said the water level in the boiler drops quickly when those red knobs are open. If water is freely flowing out of the boiler it could point to a hole inside the boiler near the water line.



Again pictures would really help.



Bob

tonya

Thanks Bob

I will post pic in a bit and the amount of water is pooled about quarter of a reg bucket. I will try and see where the water is actually coming from but I want to open both valves and see what happens to the water line in the sight glass. I am throwing my hail mary. LOL.

Why there is not a short sheet addressing this on the boiler itself is beyond me--seems like important information.

Bob, I really, really appreciate the advice. More later.

Rod

Steam Boiler

Hi Tonya-  As Bob says we need more info. You mentioned the boiler was a gas Burnham. We also need the  model number before we can begin to help you.   You apparently  have the boiler manual and that should have the model number stated on the front cover and also there should be a plate on the boiler which has the model number and other information on it.  If you could give us that would be a big help

.

As was mentioned the valves of the water sight glass need to be OPEN, They are only closed when you are doing maintenance to the sight glass otherwise they are left FULLY OPEN AT ALL TIMES!  ( the capital letters aren't yelling I just use them to emphasize an important point)  To open them they need to be turned counterclock wise. To close them they need to be turned clockwise. During the operation of the boiler they need to be fully OPEN so we can check the water level in the boiler When the boiler is not operating the water in the sight glass should be about 1/2 way up the sight glass. It drops down a bit when the boiler is operating.  When the boiler not operating, what is the level of water in the sight glass now? 1/2 way up the glass ? 1/4 up the glass? etc.

 Not quite sure what you mean by "yellow lever"  Why were the sight glass glass valves closed? Is the boiler still operating at this time?

 

I know you need info right now and we'll do our best to help you. For the future I might suggest you get a book that is available on this website. It's called "We Got Steam Heat!" It's written for homeowners that are new to steam heating. It's easy and humorous to read.

It Is crammed full of pictures and diagrams explaining what all the "gizmos" on the boiler are and how they operate. An evening or two of reading will put your knowledge of  heating ahead by a couple of light years. It explains the operation of your steam boiler and what maintenance you can do and what maintenance is best left to a pro. Here's a link to the book:

http://www.heatinghelp.com/products/Steam-Heating-Books/25/61/We-Got-Steam-Heat-A-Homeowners-Guide-to-Peaceful-Coexistence



As Bob said pictures would be a great help to us.

- Rod

Jamie Hall

As Roland said...

Don't panic!



As I understand it, you have two "red" valves, one at the top and one at the bottom of the gauge glass.  You also have a "yellow" valve at the top of the system -- with which you can add water.



OK.  Here's what to do.  The first thing is to turn the boiler off (the electricity to it).  There should be a shutoff switch somewhere handy by.



Second: If there is water around (don't worry about the floor -- yet) on the boiler and the controls and the gauge glass and its fittings, dry it off as best you can.



Third, open both red vavles and wait..  Patience.  I'd wait at least two or three minutes.  And see where the water level settles; it will take that long to settle.  While you are waiting, check that you don't have leaks at the red valves or the other gauge fittings -- that's why you dried them off!



Fourth, you want the water level in the gauge glass to be about half way up the glass.  Doesn't have to be exact, but that's about where you want it.   If the glass is full of water beyond the top, or is above half way, go to step seven below.



If you can see water in the glass, skip step five and go right on to step six.



Step Five:  If you can't even see water in the glass -- the water level in the boiler is below the glass -- open the yellow valve and let water into the system until you have about an inch of water in the glass, then close the yellow valve.  More patience.  Again, wait a good three or four minutes, and while you are waiting check around again for signs of leaks -- frorm anywhere; don't just hang around the boiler, but wander around the basement to make sure there isn't the odd fountain from some pipe somewhere.



There should still be water visible in the glass -- maybe not quite as much, but it should still be visible.  If not, you do have a significant leak somewhere, and it is time to find a pro.  Sorry about that...



Step Six:  Using the yellow valve, open it to raise the water level about a half inch at a time, then close it and let the level settle.  Keep doing this until you have the level about half way up.  Now mark the glass -- I use a spring type clothes pin clipped on -- at the water level. And go away for half an hour.  Then go to step 10



Step seven:  You have too much water in the boiler.  Somewhere on the front of the boiler there should be a "low water cut off" and it should have a drain valve on it; otherwise, we can hope there is a drain somewhere else...  If the glass is full of water beyond the top, go to step nine; otherwise, if you can see the water level but it's too high, go to step ten.



Step eight:  Open the drain valve and let the water flow until the level just drops to where you can see it in the glass.  Close the drain and let the system settle for five minutes.



Step nine: Open the drain just enough to drop the water level about a half inch, then close it.  Wait two or three minutes.  Keep doing this until the water level is about half way down the glass.  Now mark the glass -- I use a spring type clothes pin clipped on -- at the water level. And go away for half an hour.



Step ten: If the water level is still very close to your mark (say within a quarter inch either way) turn the boiler back on, but keep a very close eye on the water level for a few days. You're done, we hope...  but if the water level goes down a lot, or up a lot, one does need to find out why.



You know, writing this stuff out step by step isn't that easy -- it's much easier to do it!



And good luck!

Roland_18

Water level

Hi Tonya,

I've been lurking on this site for a few years and have yet to see a person in need ignored or scoffed at. My guess is you'll get all the info you need to diagnose the problem.

tonya

Crisis is over!! Valves open, use manual water feed. TADA!!

Roland-You gave me hope and calm my nerves; the words, "don't panic" gave me back my breath.

BobC and Rod-After reading your post I wanted to quickly get back to the property to get more information; it fuel my fire that I had supporters behind me and gave me hope. Great information as well!! It was my foundation of knowledge.

Jamie-Wow!! I am printing your detailed information for memorization!! I am putting them on an index cards and quiz myself!! Thank you so much for going through it

point by point--that I can grasp quickly!!

As luck would have it, while I was walking my dog before heading over to the property w/ the problem boiler, I saw a plumber getting out of his truck and asked him if he wouldn't mine answering a few questions. He walked me through what I had learned on this site so far, and gave me his cell number if I had any additional questions!!! What incredible luck! The plumbing Gods were merciful!! Good news for him too, I have friends ask me all the time referrals--like a good plumber!!  : D And, if any of you are close to the area of Boston, MA. Let me know so i can keep your information on hand to refer out. OK....I'll confess, I am a Realtor too so I have a lot of agent ask me as well!

I have learned a valuable lesson:

*Don't let your mouth write checks that your  &%$ can't cash!!

*Sometimes you can't fake it till you make it!!

*I'm not a plumber!! There, I've said it!! LOL.

*The best way to help someone is sometimes just pointing them in the right direction!!

Thanks again everyone, and I am incredibly grateful to have this site as a resource. xoxoxoxo

Tonya

Roland_18

Aw shucks ! !

   Glad to be of help.

icesailor

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