honeywell 8124c

chuck172

I'd like to disconnect the low limit. I don't have a blue wire in the control to pull and cap.

I know the 8124A had it. My model is Honeywell 8124 1003C.

How can I do it?

chuck172

Anyone?

Is it possible that this particular L8124 can't be modified?

chuck172

Anyone?

Is it possible that this particular L8124 can't be modified?

Sorry for the double post, I can't figure out out to edit/delete.

Tim McElwain

The L8124 Series

to make it a hi-limit/circulator control only just like an L8148 you do the following:



Remove the wire from the "B" terminal on the R-W-B side and jump out "R" and "W". In all cases upon completion make sure it shuts off on hi - limit.

chuck172

Jumper?

I have on spot that says "jumper" right below a yellow and red wire. Do I jump that with a wire?

Tim McElwain

I am not sure of the colors of the

wires but you are safe if you follow my directions given in the previous posting.

chuck172

jump out?

I appreciate your advice Jim, but I don't understand what you mean about "jump out" R and W.

I do have an empty slot that says jumper. Is that the one you mean?

Tim McElwain

I do not have the control

in front of me so I am not sure what you are asking.



There are three wires on the SPDT Low Limit circulator control R-W-B side of the L8214 the other two wires are for the hi limit. You are eliminating the SPDT function by dropping the "B" (Blue) and jumping out "W" (white) and "R" (Red).

icesailor

Honeywell 8124C:

Why would you want to do this? That control is used on oil boilers. If your goal to convert it to "Cold Start", many of us feel that to make an oil boiler a "Cold Start" is counter-productive. In my years of experience with oil equipment, the only plus to a cold start is it takes longer to clean them and you can't get them clean. The large accumulation of Kibbles and Bits in the flue ways stop effective heat transfer.

If you have an oil boiler, and the front hasn't been off since installation, there could be as much as 4" of kibbles and bits in the bottom of the chamber. I have seen the debris up to the bottom of the burner.

If you have to ask the question, you probably have no business messing with the wiring.

And if you knew what you were doing, you would know that turning down the operating (low limit) control to as low as it will go is the same as eliminating it.

lchmb

when he says

Jumping out means to connect a wire between two points....Follow what ice said..you'll be fine that way..

chuck172

Jumper

http://www.inspectapedia.com/heat/OilBoiler5McDf024ss.jpg

The above link looks like my aquastat.

"Remove the wire from the "B" terminal on the R-W-B side and jump out "R" and "W"."



The B terminal is the center wire on the left. I removed that wire. Should I then connect "jump" the two end wires. Leave them connected but jump the two slots immediately above R and W.

billtwocase

ditto

I won't give you any other advice than to turn the low limit all the way down. Was this a boiler with a tankless coil that no longer provides domestic hot water? 

chuck172

I want a cold start

I don't need the control to maintain a low limit. I don't have a tankless. Either I adapt this control or get one that provides a cold start. I know this one can be modified. I've done it before with a 8124L. Same controller but slightly different wire configuration.

billtwocase

it can be done

but a new cold start digital would be the way to go

chuck172

I know

But I have a few older controls that I'd like to use. I run a Tarm wood boiler in conjunction with my oil boiler. Trying to set them up in to run together (but not at the same time) is tricky.

billtwocase

I'd be more interested

in your dump zone and how that is set up. I can now see why you want it cold start, but if you are feeding the boiler hot water, the low limit is moot. 

Tim McElwain

Yes jump the two slots

above R & W.

Tim McElwain

There has been some concern expressed concerning

this posting and my advice for disconnecting the R-W-B side of L8124 controls. I realize that cold start applications for oil are not a good idea so on oil go ahead and maintain some temperature in the boiler.



On gas systems when we convert oil boilers from oil to gas power conversion burner we typically would install a 30,40 or 50 gallon storage gas water heater. It was our policy and supported by Honeywell Engineering (I worked for Honeywell for five years) to disconnect the low limit function from the boiler control rather than turn it down. The turning down often created an issue later when someone turned it up and the gas company would get a call for high bills. This is were I am coming from. This is not jumping out a hi-limit safety and I always tell folks make sure after any alteration to any control make sure the system comes on and runs and then make sure it shuts off on safety (Hi-limit).



The term to jump-out has other meanings when applied to troubleshooting it is a temporary "jumping out" of a control for testing purposes and is not to be left permanently "jumped out".



For those who emailed me and called me stupid and a wild cannon trying to kill people because as they stated  "you never jump anything out ever on any system that is why we have meters" please read below.



There is a procedure for jumping out the primary control on vent dampers when ordering a new damper to replace a faulty one and wanting to give the customer heat until the new damper can be installed. The reason the primary control will not work is there is an internal fuse that blows in the primary control (relay, module etc.) The jumping out of the correct terminals on the primary control will allow its operation until a new damper is installed. There are several boiler companies which actually have a factory bulletin on this procedure, Weil-McLain is one if you go to their web site you can download it.

lchmb

class

I also attended a Honeywell class that taught this and believe you can find this on their website.. I saw nothing wrong with this Tim. I'd rather see someone tell him the right way over him guessing...

billtwocase

The only problem I have

is giving someone info or advice to alter a control. I don't know if he is a homeowner, or someone just starting out in this field. I would rather see him use the right control and be safe. Turning the low limit all the way down would be better than a cold start, but if not, it would be best to use the control designed to do what he wants. Don't take this wrong

chuck172

jump?

I understand the "jump" concept. I just don't understand your instructions Tim.

You say:

"Remove the wire from the "B" terminal on the R-W-B side and jump out "R" and "W"."



Now I don't know if you mean remove the R and W wires and connect them(jump them), or remove the r and w wires, cap them off and connect (jump) their slots.

Tim McElwain

Remove the R and W wires and connect them(jump

them), That will eliminate the low limit function.

chuck172

Thanks

Thank you Tim.