Appreciate insight on the new ESC Burnham Boilers

04090

I haven't seen much posted about the Burnham ESC boiler and would appreciate some insight as to the overall durability, reliablity and optional controls.  It looks like a good marriage of tried and true cast iron design coupled with some electronics that make it efficient.



It was suggested for our place becuase it's small and doesn't need anything fancy or leading edge.  We also prefer something simple, that's going to be relatively maintenance free and not require much service over the years. 

<a href="http://www.usboiler.net/products/boilers/esc/assets/literature.pdf">http://www.usboiler.net/products/boilers/esc/assets/literature.pdf</a>

CMadatMe

Not Really New

It's the ES2, Series 3 with a draft inducer attached to it. Same iron, same control system. Nice boiler.

Robert O'Brien

If?

If you add an inducer andd have the IQ system is it really simple and tried and true? May as well just go mod/con!

lchmb

service

Any heating system should be inspected annually unless otherwise stated in the service manual. this is located in the user manual

Schedule Inspection by Qualified Service Agency

(Annual or at Beginning of Heating Season)ForFor

continued safe operation a qualified service agency

must provide a more detailed inspection of burners, heat

exchanger and vent system, and provide maintenance

as specified in Installation, Operating and Service

Instructions.

WARNING

 

CMadatMe

Cost Effective

The IQ System is basically a souped up honeywell board that has been around for years. They just made some software changes in it. The platform has been around for sometime so yes I'd say it's true.



I do agree with Bob in that if you start adding the optional odd card you will be a the price point of a condensing boiler. While this boiler can handle return temps of 110 degrees due to the changes made in the irons section design it maybe or may not fit the application deep dent on the overall goal, heat loss and capable output of existing heat emitters.

Tim McElwain

The Burnham ES2

is technically not a condensing boiler. It is by no means simpler than Mod/Cons. It has a revised S9360 Honeywell Board with plug and play capability for ODR and LWCO etc.I do not get into pricing so I do not know what its comparison is to a low end priced Mod/Con. Just keep in mind anything electronic today has issues with finding techs who understand and can troubleshoot problems. It does as do all gas furnaces and boilers require annual service which includes a combustion analysis and cleaning. As we increase efficiency we increase the requirements of the equipment for maintenance and diagnoses to prevent or perhaps solve a particular lockout feature.

04090

Thanks

We're simple folks looking for a simple workhorse boiler.  An Alpine was discussed by one of the two contractors we met with, but he thought it wouldn't be a good choice because of the small load - something about it not having a chance to condense and operating at far less than advertised efficiency. 



We're north of Boston and have two heating zones. One is in an occupied area and the other is mostly bedrooms.  Each three room zone has 60' of baseboard and one is maintained at 70 and the other at 55/60, and we like it that way.  The 1880's house has been effectively insulated and air sealed. 



Seems like this model would be a good choice.  Should we look further or jump on it?  Our 1982 boiler is out of oil, so we have some time contraints.

04090

Thanks

post duplicated, asking to have this deleted.

lchmb

the biggest

part of any system is the installer. If your comfortable with your installer, and he has done a heat loss and feels comfortable with this system then I would follow his suggestions. Just dont be afraid to ask for references and make sure he give's you a written contract and follow's all codes to include needed permits...I do however suggest having your system inspected prior to the heating system down the road to make sure things are running properly and safely...

04090

On the installer

It's a small company that's been around for eons, and the only one I called that will provide a three year parts and labor warranty.  They even have that digital tester that everyone here posts about.



However, diligintly wanting to follow advice on this board.... they did not do a heat loss calculation but it's such a small place I have confidence they can choose the proper rating.



I just don't know where that model stands in the lineup of durable (reliable?) systems that'll last, and should also ask if it's worthwhile getting the outdoor control and low water cutoff options.

CMadatMe

Reset

Basic formula fornreset savings is, for every 3 degrees you can run a heating system with a water temperature below 180 degrees you can save 1% of fuel. Then again that would depend on a boiler properly sized for the job. As for the warranty, Burnham offers a 5 year and 10 year parts and labor warranty at cost which is not substantial. Ask about it.

Jean-David Beyer

WOW. Interesting formula results.

So, since I run my radiant slab between 75F (when it is over 52F outside) and 112F (when it is design temperature of 14F outside) I would be saving 35% to 23% compared with comparable baseboard heating at 180F.



Now, since I converted from a 60 year old oil burner (with oil at almost $4/gallon the last time I bought the stuff) with no reset that operated at around 140F, to a mod-con (with gas that costs about $1.20 a therm) with reset, and I use radiant slab instead of baseboard,  the comparison is not seen in my bills. Worse than comparing apples with oranges, I am comparing apples with potatoes.



The bills are a lot less, but the cause is distributed around to a lot of reasons. I have 4 circulators instead of one, but the electricity bills did not go up because I now have an indirect off the boiler instead of an electric separate water heater.



Confusion is increased because the old boiler rapid cycled at all times, and I got wide temperature swings because of the mass of the slab. With reset, the rapid cycling happens mostly when it is warm enough out that I almost do not need heat in my small baseboard zone, and the boiler will not modulate down far enough. So if I run at 96% efficiency for 3 hours instead of 60% efficiency for one hour, am I much better off? Maybe by the amount of condensing.



I notice that my service contract costs only slightly more (about 10%) than my former oil service contract and they send out a man and a helper for an hour or two, rather than just one for 15 minutes to half an hour.