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resealing analyzer probe holes in vent

Apr
Apr Member Posts: 1
hi all, regarding boilers and furnaces, what is the best way to seal ( and have future access to ) 5/16 analyzer probes holes in sheetmetal and plastic vent pipes. Thanks.

Comments

  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,399
    I have seen

    Over-sized stainless steel pan-head sheet metal screws in galvanized and for larger holes, those chrome snap-in caps with tabs. There must be a name for them! The kind electricians sometimes use to plug knock-outs.



    For PVC? No idea.



    Too often I see aluminum tape but have my doubts long-term. But it seems to stand up but am not suggesting it.
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,633
    For any of the metals

    a sheet metal screw preferably stainless steel with some high temp RTV sealant (600 degrees)



    On PVC/CPVC if acceptable to your local AHJ (authority having jurisdiction) a stainless steel bolt I am not sure of the size I have all that at my training center. Pre-tap a coupling or an elbow and screw the bolt into the elbow to make a thread. Then glue all you pipe together, carefully drill a hole just slightly smaller than the bolt and use the bolt to tap through the existing thread on your elbow. Then pull it out and put some RTV sealant 400 degrees or less and you are done.



    Make one up and show it to the AHJ and see what they say.



    Many of your direct vent concentric now come with pre-fab test points from the manufacturer.



    When I get down to the center I will get you the part numbers on the bolt. 
  • Jean-David Beyer
    Jean-David Beyer Member Posts: 2,666
    Aluminum tape.

    "Too often I see aluminum tape but have my doubts long-term. But it seems to stand up but am not suggesting it."



    I am not qualified to recommend or dis-recommend anything. But if one gets one's furnace or boiler serviced every year, why should "long-term" even enter the picture?
  • Brad White
    Brad White Member Posts: 2,399
    Defined

    I do not consider aluminum tape to be temporary, yet I see it apparently holding up and replaced after each servicing. The temperature specs just do not hold up to the service, not by a long-shot, so I cannot recommend it.



    I like Tim's high temperature silicone tip, with the screw. Metal, not paper with some unknown adhesive
    "If you do not know the answer, say, "I do not know the answer", and you will be correct!"



    -Ernie White, my Dad
  • Ron Jr._3
    Ron Jr._3 Member Posts: 605
    I use a drill bit

    that is perfectly sized for a hot water coil bolt ( got tons of them ) . It's so close you can actually screw the bolt in for a tight fit . But if it's natural draft I wouldn't worry too much about sealing too tight around such a small hole .
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,138
    Same as ron jr

    I do the same thing for oil stuff as ron and for mod cons i use nylon 3/8 bolts for the plastics vent systems . i like using the nylon instead of a steel 3/8 bolt on plastic vent systems .I also have used stainless steell bolts on oil flues but i usually don't have them sitting on the truck most of the time.Either way i am not a big fan of the aliumiun tape over the hole looks kinda haky.Peace and good luck clammy

    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,919
    Recommend

    On a natural draft hide the hole in the back of the smoke pipe ... Saves you on a concern phone call ...

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • Paul Fredricks_3
    Paul Fredricks_3 Member Posts: 1,557
    .

    I agree. Remember (and I tell customers this too) that the test hole is much smaller than the 6" hole that the draft regulator makes in the pipe. If that doesn't have to be sealed, neither does the test hole.



    Positive pressure, direct vent, is another issue. I like the plastic screw idea for PVC, and I have used the large sheetmetal type screw on metal pipe.
  • Jr_12
    Jr_12 Member Posts: 38
    PVC

    For PVC I use 5/16" PVC hex bolts. Got them from Mcmaster-Carr.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,817
    A stainless steel hose clamp

    will cover a hole up to about 1/2" in diameter. You can join multiple clamps to build a large diameter one, if you do not have a large size.



    Or the band from a Mission cast iron no-hub coupling for larger holes, use the smooth bands not the ribbed ones.



    hr
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Glenn Harrison_2
    Glenn Harrison_2 Member Posts: 845
    Plugs available from McMaster

    www.mcmaster.com



    for 5/16" hole, nickel plated steel snap in hole plug- part number 9563K83



    for PVC, drill 5/16"hole, and tap with 1/8" pipe tap, then use part number 48335K151



    Both are easily reusable over and over again.
  • MikeyB
    MikeyB Member Posts: 696
    Plugs

    Glen, do you have another part # for the PVC plugs, that number is too long, thanks
  • Glenn Harrison_2
    Glenn Harrison_2 Member Posts: 845
    Number worked for me

    That number worked for me.



    However, here is a direct link:



    http://www.mcmaster.com/#48335k151/=bcznl3
  • MikeyB
    MikeyB Member Posts: 696
    Plugs

    Got it, thanks Glenn, I love that site, buy from them all the time
This discussion has been closed.