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zone valve

catman
catman Member Posts: 8
in Thermostats and Controls
having trouble with zone valve on two zone system one zone is getting heat other is not replaced motor and manually open valve still nothing could valve be bad?

Comments

  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,212
    Zone Valve

    What is the brand name of the zone valve?
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • catman
    catman Member Posts: 8
    zone valve

    honeytwell
  • Alan (California Radiant) Forbes
    Alan (California Radiant) Forbes Member Posts: 4,212
    Honeywell

    I've never seen a Honeywell valve go bad, but you may need to drain the system, remove it and check it out.
    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Honeywell

    can fail. Usually just the actuator motor, but I have seen them where the ball had swollen so much that even open there was no flow. That was one that overheated. With those, even though you manually open them, you need to turn up the other zone to supply heat to that one also. Could the zone be frozen, air-bound, or a valve shut off down stream? Is the circulator running, and what is the pressure on the boiler? 
  • catman
    catman Member Posts: 8
    zone valve

    yesterday valve manual overide opened  and finally got heat to come up does that mean the valve is sticking but still need to be replaced. the manual lever to open valve has no resistance when motor is in, when i disconnected the motor wire and then move the lever there was resistance then you could here the zone valve make a noise like it was opening but heat didnt come through zone till two days later.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    edited January 2011
    sounds like

    the valve is working fine, but you are possibly getting gravity feed heat due to a bad end switch, circulator, control, or lack of boiler pressure. I don't think it was frozen. 
  • catman
    catman Member Posts: 8
    zone valve

      i was talking to a plumber and he mentioned some thing about bad end switch and that would cause the valve not to open manually. is that replaceable without replacing whole zone valve. if it does need replacing is there a better zone valve to replace it with because this is not the first time had trouble with this one.
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,641
    Honeywell zone valves

    can have the entire head replaced, or just the motor or just the end switch. However in your case I think you may want to have someone take a look at the valve body itself to make sure the internal ball is free wheeling and not stuck or damaged. If you go that far just put in a new valve completely.
  • catman
    catman Member Posts: 8
    zone valve

    thanks for the advice i appreciate it
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