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Switching P-trol to V-stat
brian_44
Member Posts: 59
I finally purchased a vaporstat due to a malfunctioning pressuretrol. It has continuously been "tripping" at higher and higher pressure...even without the screw in place. (Thanks JP- I ordered thru the site you eluded to in another post).
Anyway, I opted for the L408J1009 due to the fact that all radiators in my house are nice & hot even before reaching 1 PSI after a setback. I believe I can run under 16 oz.
I asked this prior to purchase, but I notice the pressuretrol has 2 black wires connected to it. The vaporstat calls for 3 (R,W,B) . I looked at the wiring manual and it isn't all that clear to me...and my question is; can I or should I be using the 2 existing black wired connected to the pressuretrol or do I need to completely re-wire this?
Anyone who's done this...any basic help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Brian
Anyway, I opted for the L408J1009 due to the fact that all radiators in my house are nice & hot even before reaching 1 PSI after a setback. I believe I can run under 16 oz.
I asked this prior to purchase, but I notice the pressuretrol has 2 black wires connected to it. The vaporstat calls for 3 (R,W,B) . I looked at the wiring manual and it isn't all that clear to me...and my question is; can I or should I be using the 2 existing black wired connected to the pressuretrol or do I need to completely re-wire this?
Anyone who's done this...any basic help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Brian
0
Comments
-
It says here...
that the red is common and black is the contact which breaks on a pressure rise, which is what you want. You should be able to just disconnect the two wires from the pressuretrol and connect them one to red and one to black in the 1009...
If you've got it right, the burner will start from cold, and shut off when it reaches the correct pressure.
If you have an ohmmeter, you can double check before you hook up one of the two: red is common, so hook that one up first. Then you should see conductivity between red and black, and NOT between red and white. That will verify that it's red and black you want.
Clear as mud?Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
It is clear
So...just to be sure...I really don't need a wire connecting to "W" at all, correct?
Thanks Jamie! I'll follow what u stated.0 -
correct R & B only
W should make on pressure rise..you want break.1-pipe Homeowner - Queens, NYC
NEW: SlantFin Intrepid TR-30 + Tankless + Riello 40-F5 @ 0.85gph | OLD: Fitzgibbons 402 boiler + Beckett "SR" Oil Gun @ 1.75gph
installed: 0-20oz/si gauge | vaporstat | hour-meter | gortons on all rads | 1pc G#2 + 1pc G#1 on each of 2 mains
Connected EDR load: 371 sf venting load: 2.95cfm vent capacity: 4.62cfm
my NEW system pics | my OLD system pics0 -
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