Frozen oil lines?

Marilyn_4

I'm kinda new in the business.



What would I do if I got a no heat call and the oil lines are frozen?



Marilyn

billtwocase

outside tank

You should be treating the fuel if it is not Kero. If it is water problem and not cold oil gelling, then you may need to feed from the top of the tank until you can remove the water next thaw. Light heat and blow the line will do the trick to get it flowing again

Marilyn_4

Frozen oil lines?

Do I need to heat the line before I blow the line? I'm always hesitant about blowing any line, unless everything is brand new or close enough ;>)



Or can I blow the line first and see if it moves the ice? How about push/pull with an ice melting ingredient?



I don't do night calls so this would be taken care of early or perhaps after hours of supply stores.



Thank you for your help,

Marilyn

Marilyn_4

Frozen oil lines?

Do I need to heat the line before I blow the line? I'm always hesitant about blowing any line, unless everything is brand new or close enough ;>)



Or can I blow the line first and see if it moves the ice? How about push/pull with an ice melting ingredient?



I don't do night calls so this would be taken care of early or perhaps after hours of supply stores.



Thank you for your help,

Marilyn

billtwocase

I would try to blow it first to determine

if it is in fact frozen, or just clogged. It it doesn't move, I heat them up a little, try to get some "HOT" in the tank and line, the blow and flush. All filters and nozzles should be replaced as well.  Good luck.

Jean-David Beyer

Oil tanks belong in the nice warm basement

Around here, they only allow the smallest size tank above ground. All others must be buried. They would not have allowed my old 1000 gallon tank above ground. These days, they may not allow them below ground either because of fear of environmental contamination.

icesailor

Frozen Oil Lines:

For what it is worth, my take on this situation.

If the oil line is frozen with ice or water, no amount of "heat" in a can, poured in the tank will thaw it. It takes REAL heat. If the line is buried in the frost, you are screwed. If above ground, use an electric heat gun. Or, a hand torch CAREFULLY. Don't heat it up any hotter than you can put your hand on comfortably. Heat a two or three foot section of line, slowly and carefully. Go back with your hand and run it over the line. If the line is warm, 30 seconds after removing the heat, it has thawed. If it is cold, it is frozen. Once warm, you don't need to heat it again. Valves are a problem. Especially Firomatics and old globe valves, The product goes in the bottom and out the top. Thaw freeze in the bottom.

As far as blowing it out with air or those CO2 things, be careful. it doesn't matter how much pressure you put on a frozen line, it isn't going to go if it is frozen. If it is full of cold sludge, use an air compressor with an adjustable regulator. You need a rig so you can connect it to anything, Turn he compressor on and turn the outlet regulator down to zero (0 PSIG). When connected, turn the regulator out slowly until you get 5#. Let it sit there. If it doesn't drop, it's plugged. Heat some more. When the frozen spot is gone, the pressure will drop. You can raise the pressure but I never go over 20#. The CO2 rig can develop a lot of pressure if the line doesn't let go. Some get in a twist over pressurizing 3/8 OD copper oil lines. Remember, in potable water conditions, they sit with 40# to 75# of pressure for years and never leak or break. They don't usually split when frozen. They might bulge some. If you have an outside oil filter, take it out and put one inside at the burner. If it is freezing where it comes out of the tank, put a quartz work light shining on the bottom. The heat will warm it up and keep it running.

I've thawed a lot of frozen water pipes and oil tanks in my time. This always works for me over years of development.

Don't EVER use flat electrical heat tape. And ABSOLUTELY do not EVER insulate that stuff with armaflex insulation. It WILL catch on fire. Guaranteed. Use Frostex. You can cover it with insulation. But I always wrap it with FRP, loosely. My 50# portable air compressor has become the most important and useful tool in my truck. It weighs 50# but pumps up to 125#.

Restaurants have these really cool soap containers. They hold about 5 gallons and have a 2" screwed plug on the top. Perfect for pouring old fuel in. Also, perfect for removing a clogged fuel line, adding something to it and putting it in the container. When you blow the line, it goes in the container, not the tank. I do this alone. Because I work alone. Whatever I do, I do it alone.

Jamie Hall

and pretty soon...

we'll be back to carrying the stuff around in Jerry cans.  Don't you love it?  I had a nice 2,000 gallon double wall tank underground -- last me most of the year.  The oil company loved it.  I loved it.  The State DEP didn't (it was more than 20 years old).  Now I have a 330 in the basement, and DEP loves it and everybody else hates it.

billtwocase

not so primative

there are a lot of slab houses out there that years ago had underground tanks. They are now outside above ground. I would rather treat the outside above ground tanks starting in fall than to hand them over to the gas company

icesailor

Not so primitive:

Yeah, and a Tigerloop on the burner and the fuel line going into the top of the tank is a lot cheaper than a gas conversion.

I'd rather sell a tigerloop, some tubeing and fittings and some labor than see the gas Co running the line across the yard and haveing some Gas Co. sub putting in a draft hood gas boiler.. Any day.  

meplumber

So glad Natural hasn't made it up here yet.

Considering the geology, I don't expect it to.