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Beckett burner banging real bad

jcamp Member Posts: 27
I just installed a new Burnam boiler along with a Becket burner in my home. Everything is set to specs. The burner bangs so loud on startup that it wakes me at night. I have had 3 different serviceman so far come and set it up. Everything has been done, smoke test, efficiency test, electrodes set, fuel pump pressure set, lines checked for air leaks and anything else that can be set or checked. It has the recommended nozzle 85-60 and have even changed to 4 different nozzles to see if there was a difference. Burner runs great, plenty of heat and no other problems. But the banging is getting me to the point that I am either going to get ear plugs or throw the whole thing out. It has only been in use for 3 weeks. Can anyone help me out?



  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Banging Beckett:

    What model Burnham do you have?

    My solution for banging Becketts is a Carlin EZ-1. Far less complicated.

    "Banging" is usually caused by delayed ignition.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    edited December 2010
    Beckett burner banging real bad

    It is a VH83 water. Already checked delayed ignition. First thing checked and it's ok

    One more thing I forgot, if I add more air which decreases efficiency and adds more smoke to the smoke test the banging decreases a little. Any help?
  • kpg2010
    kpg2010 Member Posts: 9
    Bangin' Beckett

    Adding more air normally decreases smoke. Is the banging coming from the chamber or the burner its self ?
  • meplumber
    meplumber Member Posts: 678
    Which Beckett?

    Is it an AFG, AFII, or NX?
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
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  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    Beckett burner banging real bad

  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    Beckett burner banging real bad

    Ok I just went downstairs again. I'm getting screwed up making so many changes to stop banging. Good thing I have a marked starting point.

    If I decrease the air the banging isn't as loud but the burner roars like a blowtorch and I hear that instead. As soon as I bring the shutter back to the original point it starts banging again from the chamber. I can get rid of the banging completely by closing down the air but then the efficiency will suffer so bad and it really ROARS.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    they are noisey

    V series have and always will be louder than most. I would let a pro set and test it. Don't want it to soot up
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    edited December 2010
    Beckett burner banging real bad

    As I have stated here on every post I have had 3 qualified oil burner service men here from three different companies. The last was her on Friday. He brought all his digital gauges, smoke detector, fuel pressure gauge and did his thing. All three have done the same thing with the same results. There is no soot, the paper for the soot test is pure white. I have even called Beckett and talked to the tech there. All I got from him was a lot of mumbo jumbo, change the rods by 1/32 move them up buy 2/32, take the pump apart and check for corrosion, come on it's three weeks old. The last guy that was here closed my damper and said leave it closed. All that did was quiet it down when it is running. I am at a loss, can't afford to call someone else. As far as a picture I can tell you everything. The damper is mounted 18" above the boiler and goes into a 90 then a 6" pipe 12" long and then into a adapter 6" to 8" and then into a chimney which is clay lined. I can take a picture tomorrow if needed. That's it.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Banging Solutions:

    I at first thought that you were just getting a "bang" on initial start up. You are getting the "roar" and pulsating all through the range.

    I have run into these symptoms on occasion and had very poor luck solving them. My final solution which has proven 100% effective is a brand new Carlin EZ-1. If you buy a "Burner In A Box" from them that is specifically set up for your boiler, it comes with the proper nozzle and you can get a yellow plastic gauge for setting the electrode assembly that works on all EZ-1,2 and 3 burners. I don't give up easily but experience has shown me that this can be a looser.

    There's one possibly overlooked thing on those that I have seen cause these symptoms on occasion. Carbon deposits can and often collect on the the inside of the retention ring. You may not notice it. I take an old copper fitting brush and stick my large paw down the tube and brush it off. Some burners do it worse than others. But if they do it, it will drive one over the edge. It sounds like a few technicians came with the right equipment and couldn't resolve it. I'd consider a different burner. That one doesn't seem to work well in your application.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    Why are you paying

    service companies to resolve this if it was installed 3 weeks ago? The installer should be there to either make it right, or install a boiler that you can live with. Simple as that. Do you have a contract with the installer? I do feel for you, as I have done my best to quiet those things down for near 30 years. They are a loud boiler. Theys like to roar. I'd like to see pics. Personally I'd like to see the draft control in the horizontal run on those, and set with a gauge. Let us know how you make out
  • Patchogue Phil_2
    Patchogue Phil_2 Member Posts: 303
    OP is installer

    I think the original poster is the installer.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    edited December 2010
    Beckett still banging

    Thanks everyone for trying to help. First I am the installer, I put it in with my grandson. I sure am not going to buy another burner after paying so much for the Beckett. It was a package deal boiler and burner.

    As far as the roaring, I can live with that it's the initial banging that is driving me crazy. For those that wanted a picture one is enclosed. The only thing I have left to do is change the romex to BX cable, I just wish I could get it to stop banging and I would be a happy camper. Sorry the picture is sideways.

    Thanks again
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    What nozzle size?

    I'd look into down firing if possible
  • Patchogue Phil_2
    Patchogue Phil_2 Member Posts: 303
    Lazy/weak transformer?

    Perhaps you have a lazy or weak transformer,  leading to delayed ignition.  Which causes banging on start-up.

    Did anyone check the transformer?  Swap it out with a known good one?
  • Patchogue Phil_2
    Patchogue Phil_2 Member Posts: 303
    Also could be fuel loss/air entering

    You could also have air getting in between the pump and the nozzle from a drippy leak somewhere,  during shutdown.  Then at start-up, air with fuel sputters out the nozzle and blows out any flame that maybe started initially.  Full fuel flow is restored after the air gets out,  then ignites all the sputtered fuel with a loud bang.

    Check the nozzle tube for cracks perhaps from over tightening the nozzle.  Also where the tube connects to the pump line.  If leaky,  air enters there and fuel drips out the nozzle,  further adding to the big bang at start up.

    A Tiger Loop may help from what I have read.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    Beckett burner banging


    After reading some of the posts on here I did some checking. I took the solenoid off the pump and checked to see if there was any crap in there but it was clean. I also found some fuel oil on the outside  bottom of the burner which leads me to believe somewhere fuel is not shutting off. Also stepped down nozzle from 85 to 75. It still bangs but it's about 80% better than it was. Put a clear piece of hose on pump and drained fuel to see if I could see any air in hose but it looked good so no air leaks But after reading some posts here I'm leaning towards air in the line somewhere because after startup when it bangs, about 10 seconds later is is normal.. Now I have to figure out why I have fuel on the bottom of burner. Keep the hints coming, appreciate it very much.
  • Charlie Masone
    Charlie Masone Member Posts: 66
    Try This

    Possibly because you installed the boiler sideways! (just kidding)

    I have found that sometimes now that the burner has pre-purge it will bang due to a cold oversized chimney, probably should be re-lined if it isn't. You can figure out if that is all it is by just removing the draft regulator and letting it start and stop with the opening wide, if that solves it you can make it better by dropping the draft regulator down on an "elephant trunk" made out of two ells, one pointing down from the tee and the next turning back to horizontal and mounting the draft regulator at the bottom of this setup, will look a bit odd but creates room for expansion before the draft regulator, sort of like a water hammer arrester. 
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,216

    adjusting the burner requires an analyzer. It can not be done by ear or eye. The proper tools in the hands of a trained person will take care of your issue.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
  • Patchogue Phil_2
    Patchogue Phil_2 Member Posts: 303
    edited December 2010
    air in fuel
    1. bad pump gasket or wrong/mis-oriented gasket

    2. bad pump diaphragm
    3. partial blockage in fuel line - blow out the line back to tank
    4. clogged fuel filter
    5. filter gasket letting in air
    6. airguide missing
    7. transformer gasket leaking air - does not cause fuel leak,  but not good

    8. oil valve not open/clogged

    9. Do you have an installed vacuum gauge on the fuel line?

  • kpg2010
    kpg2010 Member Posts: 9
    "Z" dimension

    Are you sure your "Z" dimension is set properly? The distance from the nozzle face to the combustion head flat surface. Not properly set will cause delayed ignition.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    Beckett burner banging real bad

    Again thanks for all your help. When I left today burner was doing good, very little banging. Came home and it's banging again..I'm going to try all  the suggestions on here one at a time and see what happens. First I'm going to change the flue pipe and cut down the 8' adapter so most of it is in chimney and all that is outside is the 6' piece. The chimney is a 8" clay pipe. Someone here suggested getting a serviceman with the right equipment to set up burner. So far had 3 oil burner repair men here and it's still banging, none could figure it out. 
  • add
    add Member Posts: 94
    watch out for the big bang

    i would move that acetaline tank away from the burner.try an 85.60a delavan and get used to the new burner.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385

    I would echo "Z" dimension and electrode settings on that, as well as running a new line with flare fittings just to prevent a future leak. The burner is probably quiet after 10 seconds due to interrupted ignition. Electronic ignitors make for a roary start, but sounds like electrodes are not set to specs. As far as the oil leak, possibly when you bled the pump? Without putting a hose on the bleeder, oil will get drawn into the air gate. Possibly a low firing rate baffle might help with the .75 nozzle. Even though it should be running 140 psi and the GPH is not .75. I'd like to see the gun assembly out in a pic. Also on oil leaks, was the boiler leveled? Becketts luv to leak oil if not pitched towards the chamber
  • World Plumber
    World Plumber Member Posts: 389
    Air changes

    Your noticing a change with the air change. Are you sure the "Z" dimension is correct? Is the head positioned right in the chamber?

       Is this a very low bang noise? You will notice some as the new units have solenoid valves that open at full pressure.


    R. W. Beckett



    FROM: Technical Information Bullitin

    DATE: December 2000

    PART: 664852


    Combustion noise can occur in three major areas: at start-up, during the

    run cycle, and at shutdown. The following information is provided to

    help you effectively troubleshoot these areas.


    COMBUSTION NOISE AT START-UP is a rumble that

    is heard at the beginning of the call for heat.

    DRAFT PROBLEMS: Follow the manufacturer’s

    specifications for draft measurements and adjust the barometric damper,

    if applicable.

    LOW DRAFT: Inspect the heat exchanger

    for any restrictions. Look for restrictions in the flues or the chimney.

    Search to see if there are any cleanouts left open in the chimney.

    HIGH DRAFT: Adjust the barometric damper, if applicable.

    If the draft remains high after the barometric damper has been adjusted,

    a second barometric damper could be considered. Sometimes a chimney cap

    can be helpful to lower the draft.

    INADEQUATE STATIC PRESSURE: Verify the correct burner

    for the application. Consult the Beckett OEM (Original

    Equipment Manufacturer) Specification

    Guide (part number 6711) to ensure the proper burner specifications

    have been applied. If the appliance model is not found in the OEM Specification

    Guide, please contact Beckett Technical Service at 1-800-645-2876 for further



    burners differ in the amount of static pressure that each can produce. See

    Figure A. The blower in an oil burner provides a sustained volume of high

    air pressure on start-up to overcome any back pressure due to heat exchanger

    design or low draft.

    AIRGUIDE: A common error made with

    the AFG and other high static pressure burners is the removal of the

    airguide from the housing. PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE THE AIRGUIDE FROM

    THE BURNER. If the airguide has been removed there will be extremely

    poor and erratic combustion.

    GASKETS: Replace any defective gaskets,

    which can contribute to a loss of static pressure at burner start-up.

    Use Beckett gasket kit part number 51304 with AFG burners. See Figure


    MOTORS: When replacing the motor, select

    a motor incorporating a closed face or a motor with ventilation openings

    that are within the circumference of the blower wheel. See Figure C.

    This will prevent a loss of static pressure at burner start-up and during

    the run cycle.

    BLOWER WHEELS: When installing the blower

    wheel onto the AFG motor shaft, make sure it is positioned so that the

    distance between blower wheel backplate and motor face is 3/64" ± 1/64".

    A larger distance than what is specified may also contribute to a loss

    of static pressure.


    electrode settings are essential. See Figure D. Beckett offers a multi-purpose

    T500 gauge to assist you in making proper electrode settings.


    must be adjusted to have the proper air-to-fuel ratio. Follow these

    four steps to properly adjust the burner:

    • Set the burner air controls to obtain a trace of smoke level at

      a steady state condition, with the draft set to the appliance manufacturer's

    • At the trace of smoke level, measure the CO2 or O2.
    • Increase the air settings until the CO2 is reduced by 1 to 2 percentage

      points from the trace of smoke level, or the O2 is increased by

      2 to 3 percentage points.
    • Perform another smoke test. It should be zero. You have provided

      a margin to accommodate variables such as changing drafts, cold

      oil, or other factors that could be encountered during the heating


    • HIGH OIL VISCOSITY: Viscosity is resistance

      to flow. Lower temperatures increase the oil viscosity, causing a

      significant impact on the ignition of the oil droplets.

      This condition can be improved by reducing the

      nozzle size (gph) while increasing the pump pressure (psig) to obtain

      the required firing rate for the application. See Figure E. This will

      produce smaller droplets of fuel which are easier to vaporize and


      The use of a nozzle line heater will help a cold

      oil start. Use Beckett Start Helper part number 51621.

      Blending No. 2 fuel oil with 25% or more of No.

      1 fuel oil (kerosene) will lower the viscosity and pour point.


      PULSATIONS are caused by a loss of flame stability during the burner run cycle.

      EXCESSIVE COMBUSTION AIR: A properly adjusted oil burner

      can eliminate pulsations. For proper burner adjustments, refer to "Excessive

      Combustion Air" on page 2.

      OIL SUPPLY PROBLEMS: Loose or defective fittings can

      cause air leaks that can contribute to pulsations during the burner operating

      cycle. This could be due to air that is pulled in through the oil supply

      and purged through the nozzle, causing an erratic spray pattern. Air leaks

      can be the result of using compression fittings. NEVER USE COMPRESSION FITTINGS


      GASIFICATION: Froth or bubbles are caused by some form

      of internal restriction in the oil supply line, such as a plugged fuel filter,

      a kink in the supply line, or sharp burrs on oil fittings. Gasification

      can also be caused by high vacuum in the oil supply. Consult the pump manufacturer's

      specifications for line sizing and maximum lift conditions.

      There are several methods that can be used to locate air leaks and bubbles. Listed below are four common procedures:

    • Pressure Test Method (not more than 3 psig, in accordance with NFPA

      31 standards).
    • Vacuum Test Method (should hold a vacuum of not less than 20”

      Hg for at least 30 minutes per NFPA 31 standards).
    • Visual Test Method (using a clear plastic tube or a sight glass installed

      in the oil supply line).
    • Electronic Sight Glass Method (this is probably the most effective

      method available, because air bubbles can be sensed without having to

      loosen any fittings).

    • For more information on locating air leaks and gasification, refer to

      the Beckett technical bulletin part number 664822 entitled Successfully

      Locating Suction Line Leaks.

      IMPROPER BURNER SPECIFICATIONS: The burner must be properly

      configured for the application. Consult the Beckett OEM Specification Guide

      (part number 6711) to be sure that the burner model, retention head, nozzle,

      pump pressure, solenoid valve, static plate, stop screw, head protector,

      low firing rate baffle, blower wheel, etc., are what have been specified.


      COMBUSTION NOISE AT SHUTDOWN occurs at the end of the operating cycle and is characterized by an audible rumble.

      PUMP CUTOFF PROBLEMS: Rumbles can occur

      at burner shutdown due to the cutoff of the fuel pump not holding

      under pressure.

      SLUGGISH CUTOFF: This can easily be checked by

      dead-heading a reliable oil pressure gauge in the copper connector


      GAUGE PORT FOR THIS CUTOFF TEST. All fittings must be tight. Start

      the burner. Adjust the pump to the specified pressure and shut the

      burner off. The cutoff pressure is typically 20% lower than the operating

      pressure level. If the cutoff is sluggish or significantly lower than

      the 20% level, but still holds, replace the pump or install a solenoid



      electrode settings are essential. See Figure D. Beckett offers a multi-purpose

      T500 gauge to assist you in making proper electrode settings.


      must be adjusted to have the proper air-to-fuel ratio. Follow these

      four steps to properly adjust the burner:

      DEFECTIVE CUTOFF SEAT: To check for

      a defective or obstructed cutoff seat, follow the instructions as

      outlined in, "Sluggish Cutoff". If the pump pressure slowly drops

      to 0 psig, replace the pump.


      burner operation, trapped air is compressed to a smaller size at operating

      pressure. This is typically 7-10 times atmospheric pressure (atmospheric

      pressure is approximately 14.7 psi). At burner shutdown, the small

      compressed bubble rapidly expands 7-10 times, to its original size

      at atmospheric pressure forcing oil to squirt from the nozzle. See

      Figure G. Since the blower wheel is coasting to a stop, there is insufficient

      air to completely burn this expelled fuel, resulting in a rumble at

      shutdown. There are several factors that can contribute to this condition:

      When the nozzle line is removed for service, air

      replaces the oil that is drained from the nozzle line. This air mass

      will be broken into smaller bubbles and purged from the system by

      cycling the burner numerous times.

      Servicing the oil supply system allows air to accumulate.

      Make sure all fittings are leak-tight after servicing the filter or other

      components. Bleed the pump until all bubbles have been purged from the system.

      If the oil tank becomes empty, air will be introduced

      into the oil supply. Bleed the pump until all bubbles have been purged from

      the system.

      Air leaks and gasification can lead to rumbles at shutdown.

      Gasification reacts the same way as an air leak. Please refer to "Pulsations"

      on page 3 to assist in solving this problem.

      Hopefully, we have provided you with information that will help you understand

      and resolve rumbles and pulsations. Other potential causes may exist. The

      use of solenoid valves and controls with prepurge and postpurge functions

      can also provide solutions. Beckett offers a number of technical bulletins

      to assist you in solving service-related problems. For more information,

      we invite you to visit our web site at www.beckettcorp.com.

      You can also e-mail us at [email protected], or contact our Technical

      Service Hotline at 1-800-645-2876.

      Try Another Search:

      Return to Beckett Home Page

      R.W. Beckett Corporation


      R.W.Beckett Corporation ~ P.O. Box 1289, Elyra, Ohio 44036-1289

      R.W. Beckett Canada Ltd. ~ Unit 3, 430 Laird Road, Guelph, Ontario, Canada N1G-3X7

      All rights reserved. Copyright 1999© R.W. Beckett Corporation

  • World Plumber
    World Plumber Member Posts: 389
    oil pressue

    Has the oil pressure been checked? The draft measured and adjusted with a draft gauge?

        My spec book say you have an "L" head the positioning of the head is extremely critical if your loosening the acorn nut or set screw to get the drawer out to change nozzles it will do wild things.

    The first problem listed in the bulletin is draft, It looks like you have a large flue.

         You will have a hard light off because the oil pressure is up. That should be like a "boof" you'll hear next to the boiler but shouldn't notice upstairs. Did they check to be sure there is nothing hanging loose in the chamber?

         Changing from company to company is not good idea. They don't know what the last tech did and will thy the most common things which the first guy already did.

        If it comes and goes pay attention to the chimney temperature and the wind breeze conditions when it fires. If it is worse with a hot or cold chimney. You may have to consider lining the chimney or a power vent if the double damper doesn't work.

         You are creating a small explosion so it will make some sound when it starts. You don't have the soft build up of oil pressure any more. It's hard to diagnose without being there. Sometimes weird things take several tries to find. You can't keep calling different companies and expect to see good results. You need to find someone with a good reputation and try to solve it. 10 guys doing the same things won't solve it.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    Beckett burner banging real bad

    Again thank all of you that have posted. I'll try to answer the best I can. The Z settings have been set and set again. It is set at 1 3/4 according to the book. Also electrodes have been set a few times with a Beckett gauge I did put a hose on the bleeder when I bled the unit.. The Beckett is level. Someone posted that I should hear a "boof" I hear a boof alright, it knocks me right out of bed. Nothing hanging in chamber, when we swung the burner to the side to set Z measurements I checked it out. Draft has been measured and oil pressure checked. When changing nozzles or setting electrodes only acorn nut and oil line is loosened. Set screw is still tight As far as changing companies the first tech was a friend of a friend, the second was my neighbor who is a HVAC tech and the third latest and greatest was from a local oil company but came after working hours. In fact I called him back the next day after he was here because of the banging. They all do the same thing like a robot, with their gauges and leave. Something I can't figure is after setting everything and bleeding oil line it is fine. It's starts it booming about 30 minutes later and continues. Going to try and change fittings today on oil line after Home Depot opens. Also chimney is 8X8 clay pipe. Hope this helps. Thanks I'm really getting frustrated now.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,216
    Sorry you are getting frustrated

    It sounds like something is being missed. What else vents into this chimney? Is the clean outdoor sealed. Is it an outside or inside chimney? Are the oil lines Flared fittings( they should be)?
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
  • World Plumber
    World Plumber Member Posts: 389
    Flat or concentric

    The flat head has a lip about 3/16" that is a straight bend, and is set to 1-3/8 inches; The concentric head is rounded and the total lip is close to, 1/2 inch and is set to 1-3/4 inchs.

       Do you have access to a good draft gauge? Your comment it starts about a half hour later. Leads me to question the chimney. As the chimney warms up you draft may be increasing. Try watching the draft reading as the chimney heats up see if there is a big difference. You may need to do as the one gentleman mentioned add another maybe 2 or more barometric damper(s) to get control of the draft.

        How are the temperatures where your at? Can you leave it off for an hour or more between cycles for the chimney to cool down before refiring it. If you don't get the bang when everything is cold I would look into the chimney.

        The book calls for a 60 degree hallow nozzle, have you tried a solid (B); a good chance putting an 80 degree solid might make an improvement. If an 80 improves it but is still loud go to a 90 degree. Your mist will be spreading out sooner, closer to the electrodes. If you have a strong draft, the narrow pattern of the 60 degree nozzle maybe being stretched even more and fuel mist going up into the sections before it gets back to the electrodes to light.  (Mark's theory; what can I say it comes from physic and engineering) Try some different spray patterns sometimes a "W" nozzle will work to quit them down.   The spray angle and pattern is selected upon lab conditions for best efficiency and operation. Something in your application is throwing it out of sink.

       Try to get an idea of what that chimney is doing. Too much draft  or not enough intake air are two of the biggest problem causers with the new smaller combustion chambers.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27

    As to chimney it is an outside chimney. It does have an outside cleanout but it is closed. The door doesn't make an airtight seal though. I will go out and seal it shut since I have never had to clean it out, well maybe once in 20 years. It is right next to my fireplace, both are clay pipe enclosed in cement block.

    What gets me is the boiler I had was 62 years old with a Beckett burner that was about 15 years old and it ran like a champ 83% efficiency but the boiler was starting to seep, that's why I am really ticked  off. I sure wish you guys lived close to me as it seems the local guys are a bunch of no nothings.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,216
    Where is there?

    There must be someone that is close enough to work on it.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27
    edited December 2010


    OK here is what I did today and we will see what happens. I put all   new  fittings along with a quick disconnect hose made for the Beckett on the burner today. It looked like I had a fitting that was weeping so I put all new from filter to burner. afterrunning it for a while there was no more oil on the bottom of the burner. I readjusted the electrodes to factory specs and checked the Z setting again. Now here is what is happening. With the damper open it is still banging but not as bad. With the damper closed it sounds like a normal burner coming on. What does this mean, we are getting close I hope.

    oh well. I know I posted too quick. It's booming again . I quit.  For those that asked I am in NY near West Point.
  • add
    add Member Posts: 94
    same county

    i live in the same county,if you contact me i would like to talk to you.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265

    Sounds like a draft issue to me.

    Did anyone have a bid Bachrach draft gauge o n it?

    Did they check the draft over the fire when it was "banging" or is it rumbling? What is the draft at the breaching when off? When on?

    If it is rumbling with the draft damper open, what is the draft over the fire? Is it positive? I've not seen any Becketts that were happy when firing against positive pressure. When you close the barometric, increasing the draft, and the rumble stops, does the draft over the fire increase? Does it increase in the breaching

    If the draft over the fire increases and the rumble stops, it would lead me to the bad draft theory.

    I like my big Bachrach. It reads all the time and I can see it from a distance.

    You basically have a three sided outside chimney. At my last Plumbing/Gas CEU, there was a discussion of a code change in MA that had to do with three sided outside chimneys on gas appliances. Oil wasn't discussed because that is another license. That boiler is so small inside that there isn't much for expansion and contraction of the flue gasses. I've never seen a Beckett run well with draft issues.
  • add
    add Member Posts: 94

    i agree with ice the poster said he had 3 guys there but he hasn't posted any readings other then a clean smoke.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27

    Sorry, I am not the tech and didn't write down the readings.  The only reading I remember was the smoke test because I looked at the paper when he took it out.That is the tech's job. 
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    wish I was close by

    Me luvs a challenge, but getting there from Cape Cod would be the challenge. I'm sure there is someone here that can make a visit. I think you are all around the problem, but just can't put your finger on it. 
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265

    If you are going to be thorough, you should have replaced that oil line. In MA, the oil line must be replaced with a "protected" oil line. By the looks of that oil line coming from in back of the new boiler, it is as old as the original install. In MA, a replacement boiler is equal to a burner replacement.

    It seems that some OBT's love that oil filter that was a state of the art design before they were born. You have no easy way to put a vacuum restriction gauge on it. Replace it with a modern Gar-Ber style spin-on filter with a restriction gauge on it. A line as old as that is probably plugged up and high pump vacuum is causing suction leaks. When you change that nasty filter element and put a new one that will turn to nasty, and you open the bleed screw to vent the air, if it takes more than a minute to bleed it, the oil line is full of sludge.

    Replace that filter. In fact, use two. One at the tank and one at the burner. You will never have a dirty sludged up pump strainer or a clogged nozzle strainer again. That alone (to me) is worth the price of the change.
  • jcamp
    jcamp Member Posts: 27

    The oil line is almost the original. I put two new 330 gallon tanks in two years ago. The line is new up to where it comes through the 18" thick foundation. Also blew the line out while replacing the tanks. New filter element when boiler replaced also. Yesterday I changed the stove pipe and put the flapper on the horizontal run close to the wall. Also got rid of the 8" pipe and ran 6" thru the wall. Banging seems to have gotten better or maybe I'm getting immune to it We'll see in a few days. Thanks.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265

    Is your "Banging" more like a rapid "Woo-woo-woo-woo" that may cause the draft damper to flutter? Or is the banging more like fluttering? If so, it is most likely a draft problem. That's not "banging" in my thoughts. It will take a different approach. It isn't ignition which is what MY idea of "banging" is. If you close the air shutter down radically, does it get better (but may smoke like heck)?

    Do you have a big Bachrach draft gauge? Does the fire go positive over the fire when it is "banging/fluttering"? That's a draft issue.

    There's something about bad chimneys that I see on occasion and I have developed my theories that seem to point to this. I was talking with an experienced gas installer that said he has seen the same thing on gas. He now works on oil and works for an oil company. He is dealing with a Peerless/Beckett combo that is doing the same thing. I know some history on the install and I gave him some suggestions. It all gets around flues that are compromised. 

    If it is "fluttering, and you don't resolve it, I'll add more to it. Unless you have dealt with it, some might  not agree with me but it is what has seemed to help for me.
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