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ca. 1933 Residental steam system
steemheatli
Member Posts: 1
Our home was built in 1933. We have lived here for twenty years. Two years ago we decided to make the change from oil to gas because the tank was corroding and needed to be replaced. We decided to replace the boiler with a new, more efficient model. We bought your books and then searched for a contractor in our area who claimed to have some expertise in steam systems. We asked them to perform any needed maintenance on the system to make it run most effectively. The first year we had a great deal of noise and on several occasions the release valves in the basement blew off a great deal of steam and water. Eventually, after twice flushing the system, they were able to get it working smoothly. This year we had the system checked and the regular maintenance done as usual on the boiler before turning it on. It then ran without any apparent problem till last week, when the heat stopped coming up above the basement. The basement was very warm and the rest of the house cold. The servicemen came out several times and seemed at a loss. Finally they opened up one of the valves in my dining room and let off some air which had gotten into the system. They didn't explain the reason for the air or look for another cause, but had to come back the following day since when turning the pipe fitting they caused a leak and water/steam came out in quantity on my floor. When it stopped, the heat stopped as well. Once again they came and this time fixed the leak and bled the system, but this time the technician said he thought that the other radiator in the room was leaking from the same joint. He could hear it hissing. About eight hours after each "bleeding" attempt, the system failed. Today the head man from the business came himself. He explained that he would "get us heat" but that the long- term fix would involve (likely) removing all the traps, which he said must have failed after so many years of use. Ours is a two-pipe system with a valve at each radiator and his solution --- tentative, and after consultation with a
"buddy who does a lot of these" is to rip out all the valves and just close the loop. Your book, which I own, suggests that this would not be a good idea for a two-pipe system, so I have lost confidence in my "expert." I don't want to go through the rest of the winter having to bleed off air every eight or so hours to keep the heat going, but I also don't want these people ripping out the valves without getting a second and well reasoned opinion. It is frustrating that this all seems to be happening because we made a change to make the system more efficient and maintain it properly. I would appreciate a referral to a true "expert" who can evaluate the situation and advise us as to the best course of action.
Thanks
"buddy who does a lot of these" is to rip out all the valves and just close the loop. Your book, which I own, suggests that this would not be a good idea for a two-pipe system, so I have lost confidence in my "expert." I don't want to go through the rest of the winter having to bleed off air every eight or so hours to keep the heat going, but I also don't want these people ripping out the valves without getting a second and well reasoned opinion. It is frustrating that this all seems to be happening because we made a change to make the system more efficient and maintain it properly. I would appreciate a referral to a true "expert" who can evaluate the situation and advise us as to the best course of action.
Thanks
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Comments
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Where are you located?
It may be a drive but there are several people here who post often in "strictly steam" Including my self who travel a fair distance when the need arises.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating0 -
sudden lack of heat
one thing that could have suddenly happened to make the traps inoperative, would be a sudden rise in operating pressure. this makes it difficult for the traps to do their job of allowing the air out, and as you know from dan's book, the air must be let out in order for the steam to come in!! unfortunately, the 0-30 psi gauge is virtually useless for seeing your true pressure. order a good low-pressure gauge, and you will be able in the future to monitor it for any developing conditions, such as a plugged pigtail, or an over zealous technician!!--nbc0 -
If at all possible
let us know where you are; as Charlie from Wmass says, there are some real experts on the wall here who might be willing to go far enough to fix your system.
It's fixable. The question is, what needs to be done? "Ripping out all the valves and closing the loop" isn't for steam. Nor, for that matter, is bleeding air. You never have to manually "bleed" a steam system! Sorry about that -- but it doesn't sound as though anything your local folks have done is relevant. Sigh...
While we're looking for an expert who really does know what he's doing, a couple of questions.
Can you find, on the front of the boiler, the control called a pressurestat? It's a blue (usually!) box with a pipe to the boiler and a cable (now and then two) coming out of it. If so, check what the adjustment is set at. It should be set as low as possible -- but you may not be able to get it below 1 (psi). Make a note of what it is set at now, before you fiddle it -- I would bet a box of doughnuts that it's set higher than that. It's easy to adjust, so give it a try. I suggest this because several of your comments suggest to me that your system pressure is too high -- perhaps way too high.
It is, unfortunately, possible that at least some of the traps have failed. Particularly if the pressure is too high; that just kills traps. Unfortunately, it also kills vents. You should look around in your basement and see if you can locate the main vents -- a two pipe system from 1933 will have them, sometimes on the steam mains, sometimes on the returns near the boiler. They should release air (it may be hard to feel) when the boiler is heating up.
When the boiler was replaced, did they make sure the new water line was at exactly the same height (give or take a few inches) as the old one? That can be very important.
Anyway. Start with the pressure, and let us know where you are -- there are very few places which aren't within reach of a really good man.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Non functioning Steam Trap?
Hi - Sorry to hear you are having problems with your steam system. First of all you should know that the people you have had looking at your 2 pipe steam system don't seem to really have a clue as to what they are doing. I wouldn't allow them to make any changes to your system. As mentioned give us your location and we can see if someone can recommend a good steam pro in your area. As Jamie said it sounds like a steam trap or two has failed.
These are fairly easy to fix as there are rebuild kits available for most steam traps.
- Rod0
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