splitting a zone; hot water baseboard heat

jsj103

I have a wood burning stove in my family room, the heat from the stove throws off the thermostat in the dining room. My children's bedrooms are freezing because the thermostat in the dining thinks the house is warm. How difficult would it be to add a zone or split this zone. I would like the dining room thermostat to control the kitchen and the dining room, and I would like to put my children's 2 rooms on their own control.



Right now my house has three zones: 1 in the master bedroom upstairs (heat usually set at 64); 1 downstairs which controls kitchen, dining room, bathroom, 2 bedrooms (heat usually set at 69); and the last one is in the family room (which was an addition off the kitchen done before we bought the house, heat usually at 63 because of the stove).



My husband is a pipe fitter, so he is able to run any additional pipes if needed; thats the easy part. Splitting the zone is the difficult part. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

icesailor

Splitting Zones:

It's a lot easier to move the thermostat than to split up the zone. Move the theromstat to the rooms/areas that is cold and the problem will be solved. If you split up the zone, you will need another thermostat.

Honeywell not makes a wireless thermostat and once installed, you can move it anywhere.

jsj103

splitting a zone; hot water baseboard heat

I was hoping to save on oil, since I do not need as much heat in the kitchen and the dining room during the night.

Jean-David Beyer

heat in different fooms

My house has two zones: upstairs (baseboard) and downstairs (radiant slab). Downstairs has 5 rooms and there are 6 pipes going into the slab. One is 1-inch, and the other 5 are 1/2-inch. I assume one is to each room. My heat loads in each room are different. I have no ideas as to the tubing spacing. There is a ball valve in each of the 1/2-inch pipes (probably should be a different kind of valve, but these are good enough). Three of these valves I have wide open. The one for my bedroom is somewhat closed, and the one for my computer room (lots of power used there) is almost completely closed. There is no point zoning the kitchen different from the living room because there is no door separating those two rooms. And diddling the two ball valves does well enough for the two that need it. Of course I could zone the rooms separately with 4 more circulators, or 5 zone valves (and replace the existing circulator with a delta-P ECM one), but for me there would not be much justification for the added cost.



YMMV, of course.

Ironman

Move the Termostat

I agree with Ice.



Move the stat and close the dampers on the rads near the wood stove.

Gordy

Another thought

I agree with ice sailor, and ironman also as to move the thermostat. But something you could try if you have such a thermostat.



Some newer thermostats allow you to calibrate the room temperature reading of the thermostat by plus or minus 5 degrees.



So you could recalibrate the thermostat in question say -5 degrees. So in other words if the actual room reading is 75* now it would say 70*. The only caveat would be if the family room is on this zone it would over heat more. Or if you are not using the wood burner the other rooms would overheat.



 So I do not know if the wood burner is in constant use, or the family room on the same zone. 

bob eck

freezing kids rooms

Where are the kids rooms are they above the room with the stove in it? Look at a Tjernlund AIRESHARE products install one model in the room that has the stove in it in the ceiling and that hot air will go to the rooms above. They also have one that can go in the wall and put heat into the next room. Check them out.

Charlie from wmass

I install a thermostatic

valve in the room with the wood stove, move the thermostat and have a bypass for the baseboard in the wood stove room.