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Advice on Choosing a Boiler
BrianCNY
Member Posts: 26
Hello
In another thread I asked about venting a Lochinvar EBN150,
which is over-kill for what I am heating, but I got the boiler for next to
nothing. so that's why I wanted to see if it would work.
What I'd like to consider is another boiler, but there is
such an array of choices, I have no idea what is the best way to go. There are
traditional boilers, wall hung units, using a hot water tank even and as
everyone knows, the list goes on-and-on.
Here's the details:
1 - I am heating 1300 sq ft of poorly insulated space, that
will be well insulated in the near future. The basement will be living space
soon and that adds another 700 sq ft.
2 - I live in Syracuse, New York
3 - I have 3/4" copper baseboard
4 - I need a side-vent installation with a run of about 18'
5 - My budget is up to $2000 (of course less would be better)
6 - I will be installing it myself
Any help, opinions, or just comments would be greatly
appreciated.
I really need some guidance on this from people who have
experience, and I know this is the place to come.
Thank you . . . . Brian
ps. I will be pumping away and following all of Dan's
advice that I learned in his classes.
In another thread I asked about venting a Lochinvar EBN150,
which is over-kill for what I am heating, but I got the boiler for next to
nothing. so that's why I wanted to see if it would work.
What I'd like to consider is another boiler, but there is
such an array of choices, I have no idea what is the best way to go. There are
traditional boilers, wall hung units, using a hot water tank even and as
everyone knows, the list goes on-and-on.
Here's the details:
1 - I am heating 1300 sq ft of poorly insulated space, that
will be well insulated in the near future. The basement will be living space
soon and that adds another 700 sq ft.
2 - I live in Syracuse, New York
3 - I have 3/4" copper baseboard
4 - I need a side-vent installation with a run of about 18'
5 - My budget is up to $2000 (of course less would be better)
6 - I will be installing it myself
Any help, opinions, or just comments would be greatly
appreciated.
I really need some guidance on this from people who have
experience, and I know this is the place to come.
Thank you . . . . Brian
ps. I will be pumping away and following all of Dan's
advice that I learned in his classes.
0
Comments
-
here's a thought
Brian instead of wasting alot of money on that long vent run whih reguardless of what direct vent boiler you use it will reguire stainless steel vent pipe (big money ) why not relocate your boiler to a location closer to where your vent will be terminated to outdoors.yes you will have to rerun some 3/4 opper for your heat loops and gas and electric but you will not have that long vent run and any issue that may come with it over time (like boxing it in to conceal when finishing your basement) as for boiler opts buderus makes a very nice seal combustion direct vent boiler that has seal combustion meaning it uses outside air for combustion whih is a very good thing to think about very very quite but not the cheapest and of course just about every boiler manafacturer out there makes a direct vent cast iron boiler ,as for sizing see if you can get a heat loose programn(slant fin i think you still may be able to down load for free) so you an size your boiler propely that will save you coin in the long run,i would think you need nothing larger than about 75,000 btu input with the 700 sf being finished ,but that long vent run in my book is a waste of coin that could be put to better use like a good properly sized boiler .do a little bit more searching and asking question before you leap into the fire not everything is as easy as it looks(like installing a heating system correctly )peace and good luck clammyR.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating0 -
Thought of relocating
Thank you clammy.
Relocating the boiler was in my thoughts from the beginning, but it's just not possible. I do appreciate the suggestion though.
I am thinking more and more that I should not install a boiler that is twice what I need, regardless of the fact that I got it for a song. I remember Dan saying over-and-over that people go too big and that is a huge mistake.
What I don't want to do now though, is make a mistake and purchase the wrong thing,
That's why I am hoping I can be pointed in the right direction here, or at least perhaps, be told what to avoid.
I like the wall mounted ones, like the Raypak Xpak, which I've seen online for $2300 for the 80,000 btu model. But once again, I have no idea whether this is good or bad, just something I looked at.
I know though . . . . I need to get this done soon !!
Thanks again . . . Brian
ps. I am going to do the sizing online and find out what I need.0 -
Pay Less now but more later
Brian,
You obviously are aware of this principle, but here are a couple of suggestions:
1. A lower cost option for a new unit would be the Navien "Combi" heater. Model # CH 180, 210 or 240. You size it according to your domestic hot water demand. It has its own built in heat ex., pump, etc. for space heating. 92%, PVC vent. Should be close to your price range.
2. A Buderus GB142/24 or 30 (depending on load calc.) as Clammy recommended. Or the new ECR 97GB which Wes Congleton at ECR told me is on the shelves now but can't be released for sale until they have the approval letter from ASME in hand (they have the number, but not the letter). I'm really dying to do one of these since I had the privilege of going to factory with a few other contractors and giving input as to what we wanted in a new mod/con. ECR listened and really did a super job on this one. Either of these would cost more now, but should last substantially longer than a water heater.
As the man says: "You can pay me now or pay me later."Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0
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