Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Insulating floor of a 3-season porch
Nelson_4
Member Posts: 38
Hi,
I live in Boston and have an unheated 3-season porch. It has been transformed into a daytime playroom and I would like to use it year round. It is 14' x 7', about 100 sq. ft. and I plan to supplement with a space heater.
It is south-facing with a lot of single pane windows. I have already made interior storm windows <a href="http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/index.html">[url=http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/index.html]http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/index.html</a> that made quite a difference. But the floor is still cold.
The floor is carpet on top of plywood. It looks like there is a layer of poly under the plywood. The porch is 3 feet off the ground but is enclosed with thin wood and plaster. I can access the area beneath the porch floor from a door in the basement. There is no insulation between the floor joists.
My question is, should I insulate under the floor or is it a waste of money? If so, what kind of insulation should I use? (Rigid board, fiberglass, etc.) Would I need to get a building permit?
I live in Boston and have an unheated 3-season porch. It has been transformed into a daytime playroom and I would like to use it year round. It is 14' x 7', about 100 sq. ft. and I plan to supplement with a space heater.
It is south-facing with a lot of single pane windows. I have already made interior storm windows <a href="http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/index.html">[url=http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/index.html]http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/index.html</a> that made quite a difference. But the floor is still cold.
The floor is carpet on top of plywood. It looks like there is a layer of poly under the plywood. The porch is 3 feet off the ground but is enclosed with thin wood and plaster. I can access the area beneath the porch floor from a door in the basement. There is no insulation between the floor joists.
My question is, should I insulate under the floor or is it a waste of money? If so, what kind of insulation should I use? (Rigid board, fiberglass, etc.) Would I need to get a building permit?
0
Comments
-
foam insulation
I put spray foam insulation to and extension of my living room where the access to the floor was from a crawl space. I think is better that the rigid foam board .Find a company in your area that does foam isulation and get an estimate for the job.0 -
Foamed in place
insulation is definetly the way to go on that one. I have used a product called Icynene, and it worked very very well. Try Healthy Home, Inc., in Melrose.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Open-cell vs. closed-cell
Thanks for the replies. I got an estimate from Healthy Home over the phone. But the more I looked into spray foam insulation, I am more convinced that my application is better suited for a closed-cell foam, as opposed to open-cell (such as Icynene). Any thoughts on this are appreciated.0 -
Only comment I'd have
is that Icynene, though an open cell type foam, is air and moisture impermeable -- and seals uncommonly tightly. Which is part of what you want.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
foam
The foam insulation will expand and cover every crack you room may have . When i did it on my house, the foam came up to few tiny holes on the top of the hardwood floor, meaning that it will really be a tight sealer for heat loss.0 -
you are right...
about the closed cell. The urethane (closed cell) is a much better fit. More r value to the inch, better resistance to moisture, better strength per square inch.... many Icene contractors are now going to the closed cell0 -
Closed Cell polyruethane foam is the way to go.
Have used RHH Foam Systems - Versi Foam - done it with my crew. You can do it or pay someone to do it.
It's closed cell. Class I for flame and smoke spread - code accepted though needs to be covered in accessible spaces.
It's rated at R 7.0
they sell kits that do 600 board feet of expanded foam (600 s.f. at 1"). It comes in kits of 2 propane grill size tanks, with a hose set and nozzle/tips.
you can spray foam all of the perimeter and up against the flooring and then finish with netted cellulose or fiberglass batts - to save some money. the closed cell foam does it's thing by completely air sealing - as well as insulating. it is a moisture barrier which is good for a crawl - though as I think about it you may need to put the fiberglass up first - then foam seal it all up.
Good luck0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.2K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 52 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 99 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 913 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 381 Solar
- 14.8K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 53 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements