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Why do I have 2 pressuretrols?

Diane_7
Diane_7 Member Posts: 6
Hi, I will take a pic tomorrow, can I post here or should I just link to it from my site?

As for the vents, I have never checked the main ones. The ones I replaced on the radiators made a huge difference except in the sunroom (which may be an entirely different issue). But my bedroom radiator never got warm unless the heat was on for over 2 hours. Adjusting the vent didn't do a thing. New one had to be turned down - warm room! (is it a vent or valve??)

I am looking for the happy checkbook for sure! Thanks!

Comments

  • Diane_7
    Diane_7 Member Posts: 6
    Why do I have 2 pressuretrols?

    Having re-read "We got steam heat" on the eve of one of the coldest days of the year, I have a list of quick to-do's started.

    An easy one was to check the psi on the pressuretrol. However, I have TWO side by side. One is set just below 2 psi, the other one is much much higher.

    I didn't see anything in the book that relates to this (they are identical).

    Why is this and what do I need to do to them?

    It is a single pipe system run off natural gas. I am not having any serious issues but I want to make sure it is running as efficiently as possible. I do have some hissing and whistling. Since 2000 I have replaces 4 out of 10 radiator valves that were not working well but other than that I have not done much. Oh, I did re-insulate some of the piping in the last few years to replace the asbestos removed as part of the purchase agreement. (the things you learn as time goes on!).

    I also plan on checking the radiator pitch as rugs have been removed, and cleaning the two main vents in the basement.

    But if someone can help me with the pressuretrols that would be great.

    I can provide a pic of the basic system of that would help.

    Thanks,

    Diane
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,578
    2 'trols in the basement

    are they exactly the same? usually one of the 'trols has a reset button for reseting the boiler if the pressure should have gone above its maximum limit. the other 'trol controls the pressure in the boiler, and should be no more than 1.5 psi. if you want the system to be quieter, quicker responding, and burning less gas; then a pressure lower than 12 oz. is best, and may require a vaporstat.

    besides low pressure, main line vents are the most important component in the system. radiator vents are usually in working condition even after many years. main line vents do most of the work of air removal, and suffer the consequences of water-hammer, over-pressurisation, and mis-sizing. so have a look and see if they are still working-your checkbook will say thank you.--nbc
  • Diane_7
    Diane_7 Member Posts: 6
    Pix

    Here are the pix of my pressuratrols and the basic system. Any advice on the settings would be greatly appreciated!

    http://www.old-homes.net/pix/boiler/

    Thanks,

    Diane
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,156
    that second one

    (the one with the much higher setting) is a safety backup, in case the first one (the lower setting) doesn't work. Quite common, and many codes and jurisdictions require it.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • Diane_7
    Diane_7 Member Posts: 6


    OK that makes sense since it is a "newer" install.

    How about the setting on the first one? Should I drop it at all?

    How do I see if the first one is working?
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,156
    Not so hard, really...

    first, if the system is working well -- little or no banging, vents aren't spitting steam, etc. etc., there really is no need to set the lower pressuretrol down further -- although you can try it. But it looks as though it's set about as low as it can go and work reliably.
    Second, you can tell if it's working by the pressure gauge -- if the low pressuretrol is working, you'll just barely see the pressure gauge move, if at all, when the boiler cuts out. If it is the higher set pressuretrol, the pressure gauge will definetly move up to 5 or more.
    There are fancier ways to do all this, but this should work!
    It is kinda chilly out there, isn't it?
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • Diane_7
    Diane_7 Member Posts: 6


    Yes it is chilly! -7.9 in my backyard (north) this morning :)

    When does the pressure gauge move? When the boiler is on, off, or just turning off? It is always at zero but I never looked as it is turning off (which is how I interpreted your comment).

    What may happen if I knock the pressure down a hair?

    Thanks,
    Diane
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,156
    If it moves at all...

    it will be right at the end when the burner turns off. You may not see it move at all -- mine doesn't.

    On the pressure -- well... might run a little better, but if it's running OK... as some others on the Wall will tell you, I'm a big fan of if it ain't broke, don't fix it!
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • Dan C.
    Dan C. Member Posts: 248


    Can't see the boiler, but I usually see this on millivolt systems. The backup pressuretrol will kill the pilot if it opens. Don't lower it. The main pressuretrol should be set at 1/2 cut in and 1 diff on the wheel inside.

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