need suggestions for removing supply valve one pipe steam

bob young

Those valves will probably not unscrew. they will twist , bind & distort. if you egg the riser in any way you will definitely regret it. then its riser time and down to the floor below. slice off with sawzall or grinder & chop out spud from radiator. then replace valve & spud tailpiece . you might need a plumber . easy job but only if you know how its done. snaking galvanized lines-----do not waste your time & effort. you will compound the problem. cut out & replace with copper. another easy job.

Leah Frances Wade

need suggestions for removing supply valve - one pipe steam

Yes, oil is at an all time high. Yes, I live in a drafty old house with 200 year old windows and brick walls. And Yet, I still LOVE my steam heat.

I am a more than competent DIYer and need some help removing the supply valves for my one pipe steam.

I have disconnected the radiators (they're off to get blasted and painted) but cannot get the supply valve off. I need to remove them for two reasons: 1. many of them leak despite repacking the valve stems and 2. I want to get my supply pipes rotorootered (is that a word?) before the heating season starts.

I have a variety of pipe wrenches and am not afraid of using a torch or a heat gun, but I would like some concrete advice for how best to proceed; what not to do; helpful suggestions; or etc.

Sure I could call a plumber, but where's the fun in that?

Brad White_198

With that great attitude

you will be quite welcome and admired here, Leah.

That you are sending out your radiators to be finished gets you brownie points.

The technique I use is a pair of wrenches, one on the pipe, one on the valve ("Backing wrench technique"), to prevent the extension of twisting forces to joints you do not intend to loosen. You probably already know that, but I would rather say than not.

Start with a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40 or BoeShield. Let it sit a bit and re-apply.

Then, with a helper if you at all can, snug the backing wrench onto the pipe. (Use a pipe extension on each wrench for additional leverage.) Then snug the "live" wrench onto the valve. Adjust both until they are in full contact and ready to go.

Then "sneak up on it" with a quick jerk to break the initial seal. (Quick Jerk is just that, not Jamaican Fast Food.)

When you hear that first creak, very satisfying... oh yes.

Be cautious in that older pipe is often softer wrought iron and may be damaged, so use appropriate force, but do what you need to do.

Good for you for doing what you are.

While we are at this, have you checked out Dan's book "We Got Steam Heat!"? Good place to start and will save you money in the long run.

nicholas bonham-carter

repacking steam valves

are you sure your pressure is not too high? repacking stems has always worked for me and since the valves should never be turned off and on, the packing should stay tight.the supply pipes when ever i have cut into them have been absolutely clean.do you know you need the rooter?
i love my 1-pipe steam too!--nbc

Leah Frances Wade

Thanks

I appreciate the suggestions. I guess I will let my DH get his hands dirty and help me with the two pipe wrenches. He's been dying to use my 36 inch pipe wrench.

Re rootering - I've got galvanized plumbing throughout the house (next year's project) and I have really rusty water. That combined with the abject neglect of the previous home owner convince me rootering it will probably be worth it.

Re valves - I repacked several times last winter and still had drip/drip/drip that is ruining my hardwood floors. I am pretty much convinced that the previous homeowner used the supply valve as on/off switches for the radiators. (she blew up the original boiler 10 years ago when she decided to refill it when it ran dry - while it was hot.)

MikeyB

heat

Well couple things DO NOT go near your piping with a 36 inch pipe wrench you will end up with more than a valve coming apart.As Brad said wd40 or =. The best thing is to apply heat if you can with a torch brass and steel will expand at diffrent rates,just dont set the house on fire.If that doesnt work you can cut the valve body near threads with a sawsall or hacksaw at an angle then expand small slit with screwdriver or chisel

Rich Kontny_3

Bob's Technique

Is what I would do as you can control the damage that way. Big wrenches and old piping sometimes to not get along. Bob is also right about the water pipes as cleaning the insides is like Russian roulette.

If allowed you could use pex for new water piping.

bob_46

Wrenches

Make sure you three point the wrenches

Jamie Hall

The steam lines

shouldn't need cleaning, of any kind (although it is possible the wet return(s) in the basement might). As NBC noted, check your pressure. It should be possible, although possibly only just possible, to repack the valves to hold OK on the perhaps 12 ounces of pressure they'll see. Also, as he notes, they should only be turned very rarely, if ever. I'd avoid taking them off, if I could possibly help it.

On the water pipes, I recently finished re-plumbing all the risers in a somewhat similar house -- with PEX. I was able to slip the half inch PEX in the space left in the risers around the galvanized. Left the galvanized in place (much too hard to take it out) but disconnected. Replace the galvanized in the basement with copper -- looks better. Cleaining old galavanized is pretty close to a 100 percent guaranteed leak somewhere... where you'll never see it (until you get the flood).

Jim Bennett

Hey!.....

nice to see you checkin' in Brad.

Your wisdom and wit has been missed.

Cheers,

Jim

MikeyB

valves

Try heating up the thread w/a torch or heat gun and stick a candle or a toiet wax it will pull into the joint and make it a little easier to unscrew, or cut above the pipe thread w/a sawzall and split the bottom portion of the radiator valve w/a sharp chisel and unscrew.