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cast iron radiator repair.

Derheatmeister
Derheatmeister Member Posts: 1,581
HT in Pa,Yes in Germany we have these rads,all you need is gaskets/Left-right hand nipples and a "special tool. these rads are pretty cool and lend them self to expansion.Where did you see these and what make were they?

Comments

  • mike shaw
    mike shaw Member Posts: 7
    cast iron radiator restoration

    I purchased a farm(Ridgedale-built by George W. Washington, great step-nephew of our first president) in West Virginia and I'm in the process of restoring the large cast iron radiators found in the plantation house. We disassembled the radiators after pressure checks revealed some leaking around the push nipple joints and found large amounts of iron sediment and rusted push nipples. I had new push nipples fabricated(took 6 months) and when we assembled our first radiator we had some leaks around the push nipples. I then had some rubber gaskets made to fit around the push nipples and reassembled. There was only one small leak(1 drip every 10 seconds) when we pressurized it with warm -140 degree- water. Has anyone on this board had any experience with sealing cast iron radiators? Thanks, Mike Shaw
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177


    use permatex on the pushnipples
  • Jim Bennett
    Jim Bennett Member Posts: 607
    I agree....

    with Bob on the Permatex. You'll never get them apart again, but they won't leak!

    Jim

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • mike shaw
    mike shaw Member Posts: 7


    We have a hot water system that was converted from steam.
  • mike shaw
    mike shaw Member Posts: 7


    We did use red(high temp) silicone sealant on the gaskets and let it cure for 4 days. Have you ever used permatex for radiators?
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,830
    I've used the red

    RTV without gaskets -- and not on the push nipples, but on the faces just outside the push nipples. Works fine on steam at least...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    permatex

    I use permatex on cast iron baseboard pushnipples & it works like a charm. when nothing else will do.....permatex
  • kamney
    kamney Member Posts: 15


    How about treating the system with Bars Stop Leek?
  • mike shaw
    mike shaw Member Posts: 7
    permatex

    What type of permatex do you use? And how long do you let it cure? Mike
  • mike shaw
    mike shaw Member Posts: 7
    stop leak

    I have considered using the stop leak but have been told to use it only as a last resort.

    Here is what I've tried so far:
    1) New lower push nipples--numerous leaks
    2) New push nipples with rubber o-rings(1/8" thick)and red rtv--fewer leaks but not acceptable
    3) New push nipples with 1/4" rubber gaskets and red rtv-- one small leak.
  • Why not

    change it back to steam?

    The arguments for doing so-

    1. less system pressure. Hot-water runs at 12 PSI in a 2-story building, 18 in a 3-story etc. A well-operating steam system can heat the building on less than a pound. Less pressure = fewer or no leaks.

    2- less danger of freezing. Especially if you have risers running in outside walls. A steam system drains completely dry when it's off, except for some pipes in the basement and the boiler itself.

    3- no need to drain the entire system to fix something.

    4- fewer moving parts, especially if it's an Orifice Vapor system.

    The problems you're running into are typical of these ill-advised conversions. My company does not recommend converting steam to hot-water, will not perform such a conversion and will not work on a system someone else has converted. There are just too many things to go wrong and attract lawyers.

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  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    permatex

    original black permatex pipe joint compound # 80045 no cure time.if permatex don't work....it goes straight into the garbage pail. don't forget a gallon of gasoline to clean your tools & hands. try not to get in your hair. lol best of luck. can't think of it ever not working for me in over four decades
  • Radiator repair

    Ever try to separate a cast iron radiator that doesn't have the threaded rods to hold the sections together? I once read about these; that the "push" nipples were threaded! Well, I found out that (after several attempts) that these radiators were not comming apart. Upon further inspection I could see the threaded nipples that held the sections together.
  • mike shaw
    mike shaw Member Posts: 7
    steam

    I will consider converting it back to steam since I have to purchase a new boiler and I like the idea of a one pipe system. What kind of valves and pipe would you recommend? My home is about 10, 000 sq.ft. Thanks, Mike
  • Derheatmeister
    Derheatmeister Member Posts: 1,581


    Mike, I agree with bob, the permantex goes straight into the Garbage if this is a Push nipple style rad. How about some Pix's? so someone may recognize the rads.and you can get the Proper Nipples(Are the "homemade" Nipples exact repro's are where you guessing? ,Where they Hardened?)Ever consider a New repros of the rads or even Refurb's, I seen some on Ebay couple Ago ,think they were from England and it was a reg. Business not some Joe in a Scrapyard.(Betya there is someone in the states too).I think Burnham and Roca has these"OLD style" rads. One other thing you may try at install is to put the" Nipples into a freezer or Dry Ice and Heat up the rad connection with a torch and use the Proper tool to pull these rads "evenly" together.This job may take multiple people pulling the sections simultaneously together.Richard from Heatmeister.
  • mike shaw
    mike shaw Member Posts: 7


    I had the push nipples milled at a machine shop in Pittsburgh and sent them several of the best samples that I had. They are also stainless. I will try to post pictures. There are lion's heads on the top corners of each column and fasces at the bottom. We put together two radiators yesterday and will give them a few days to cure(using red permatex and 1/16 " gaskets and will let you all know the results. Mike in West Virginia
  • Pipe should be

    threaded black steel on all pipes that carry steam. If a pipe does NOT carry steam, type L copper is OK especially on wet return lines.

    The proper valves to use depend on how you're going to use them. One-pipe steam radiator valves should open wide, since steam and condensate flow in opposite directions thru them. For 2-pipe/Vapor, use orificing valves if you can find them, this will help balance the system and can even eliminate the need for radiator traps.

    Each steam main needs a good-sized vent at or near the end. This gets the air out of the main in a super hurry so steam can fill the system evenly on a couple ounces pressure.

    Where in WV is this job located? How much of the old steam piping is still there?

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