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rusty fill issue

Not familiar with the B&G device, but is it a cast iron body? Have seen this happen with Watts older 1156's and now their PRV are brass bodied. Could this be your problem?
Make sure the replacement device is brass or bronze to eliminate the problem.

Comments

  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,039


    I replaced a near new B&G PRV today, and it was completely frozen with rust. The feed line past the shut off valve was half filled with rust and the boiler could not fill. Will a length of copper between the tie in and the first shut off valve help? It is not a sediment issue...the strainer was solid with rust but it was built up, not floating chunks. How does one protect the new fill assy' from this happening all over again? I should mention, there was no BFP.

    Tim
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,039


    Brass body B&G strainer, PRV combo unit. No over-ride on the fill. The rust is from OOOOLD domestic iron piping migrating into the old iron fill line. The strainer was solid with rust and was not allowing any water past, even though it was just a few months ( one season) old. There surely is a way to keep the bad stuff out...besides a strainer.

    Tim
    Just a guy running some pipes.
  • I don't know the proper name

    of this fitting , but we used to install a brass tee/wye right before the PRV . If you removed the plug from the Y you could flush out all the crud that accumulated right at the PRV inlet .
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 18,279
    Take a coil of pex

    and feed right from the main at the point of entry to the fill valve :) Bypass all the bad pipe.

    Why is the valve being asked to auto fill? Most times a one time use is all they ever get to provide.

    If the pipes in the building are really that bad, faucets, ball cocks, fill solonoids, etc are not going to like it.

    Thime for a pex pipe re-plumb possibly?

    A band aid is just a temporary fix, treat the problem not the symptom.

    hot rod
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Timco
    Timco Member Posts: 3,039


    In this case, the fill for the boiler is right off the main as it comes up out of the concrete. It is the first t in line, actually. The shut-off valves were left on, and the pressure was 2# when I got the no heat on the top floors call. Top floors full of air from no pressure and leaks everywhere when pressurized to 12#. I will install an initial strainer prior to the BFP & fill with it's own shut off for cleaning. If the first one catches the rust, then the system should be saved. I have never felt it my place to offer a re-pipe when I am trying to land a $10K+ boiler swap...but I do replace a lot of washers and toiler fill valves while on the job...

    Thanks for the input as always, Tim
    Just a guy running some pipes.
This discussion has been closed.