Honeywell Smart Valve problem

RianS

Could you check out my thread from 12/12/06 and let me know what you think? Subject is pilot outage. We put a smart valve on it about 1.5 years ago and never had another problem. Thanks Rian

PeterGriffin

Honeywell SmartValve Problems

Hey folks,

New to the forums, I read about this site in Profitable Plumbing. I'm 19 and in my second year apprenticing as a Plumber/Gasfitter in Northern Alberta.


3 weeks ago I replaced a single stage Honeywell SV9541 gas valve on a Heil High Efficiency furnace. When I was troubleshooting I determined there was 115 volts going to the SV, and after going through the SV, should have powered the combustion motor. I was not getting power to the combustion motor. I replaced the valve, furnace works fine for three weeks. Not unusually loud or anything obvious. Today I get a call-back to the house, same problem. Again, I replace the gas valve and the furnace runs fine.

Why is this happening? My boss and I were unable to come up with a solution. We thought of the combustion motor drawing too many amps and shorting out the gas valve, but the motor was drawing 2.4, which is the rating on the motor. Considered the possibilty of a short on the circuit board, but it seems highly unlikely as the board is a fused circuit. We reached the same conclusion when thinking about a power surge.

Anything I'm overlooking? Any input/suggestions/solutions?


Thank you,

Rankin

don_182

What code

on the indicator lights were you getting? It sound like to
me your pressure switch is getting stuck and the closed position.

Welcome to the wall.

Charles G.

Smart valve?

Without a M/N or S/N it's hard to pinpoint your problem. However, some Heil furnaces had a problem w/condensation from draft inducer/flue pipe dripping down on the gas valve. Any signs of moisture? Fuse @ control board protects 24 volt circuit there.

Empire_2

Hi Rankin

What was your error code before you decided to replace the valve??? I can almost bet that there is another problem that has nothing to do with the operation of the GV. I personally do not like this valve, it seems to interfere with every operation of the furnace when there is a small malfunction. Also, just a thought make sure the polarity is correct. L1 to ground...... After reading the specs on the valve, The air switch has to open after a call for heat in not the motor will not come upon another call for heat.

Mike T.

BillW@honeywell

Hi, Rankin, welcome to the Wall!

The other guys have it, check the diagnostics, and try our tech service number at 1-800-468-1502, or go to www.customer.honeywell.com, and scroll down to th right, and type in the number of the control, and you'll get a PDF of the spec sheets.

Charles G.

Heil Furnace

Get me a model # and a return e-mail address and I'll send you an I&O manual for the furnace.

PeterGriffin

Honeywell Smart Valve problem


Thanks for the great responses! I wasn't expecting as much, nice to see such an active forum. I would have liked to get this info in last night, but I got a call for a lady who had the gas shut off for her house, but didn't consider that water expands as it freezes! = mess and half!

The Heil Furnace is:
Model: H9MPD075F1281
Serial: A044792105
My Email, as above is: d_x20@hot mail.com
I would greatly appreciate any info you could me, but please indicate "heil" somewhere in the subject. I get lots of emails a day from the Scirocco Mailing List I'm on.


In both instances where I replaced the gv, the valve was clean, no sign of any condensation. The first time I replaced the valve, the light on the gv was completely off, at all times. Second time, the light was a dim, solid green. After I replaced the valve for the second time, it was a steady flash, something like - - - - - - is as close as I can describe it.

I will check through the customer.honeywell page to see what I can find.

PeterGriffin

PeterGriffin

PeterGriffin

Honeywell SmartValve ..

I tried to copy and paste an image from the honeywell PDF but I'm not quite a computer guru. But if you go here: http://customer.honeywell.com/Techlit/pdf/69-0000s/69-1227.pdf on page 8 you will see the diagram closest to the set up I was dealing with. I had 120 volts on L1 coming from the board upto the 4 prong gv connector (c3 on the diagram). On c3 you can see there is what appears to be a jumper. If I have 120 going to that connector, wouldn't it be the 'jumper' that has failed?


Please feel free to correct me on any terminology, I get irritated (I never show it, of course) when customers want me to "splice in" water lines with "joiners" and such.

Unknown

This content has been removed.

Empire_2

Dave did you mean

2 psi or lbs???

Mike T.

PeterGriffin

honeywell

Dave,

It is natural gas and it would be inches w.c. going into the valve.

Thanks,

Rankin

Joo

ICP Heil Smart Gas Valve 1013350

My furnace blower motor went a week ago and damaged the control board as well . I called a HVAC guy and he replaced the motor first and then realized the board needs to be replaced as well. After replacing the board tested the A/C and it was OK, but in the heat mode furnace was not coming on. after some troubleshooting he said SMART GAS VALVE should be replaced as well. I didn't go for it because the repair bill was already too high and I don't need the heating for the next few month.

Diagnostic LED on the valve is solid on.

When I select heat mode and set the SP above room temp,Thermostat  asks for heat( audible click), but nothing happens( No EXHAUST BLOWER, NO IGNITION). Is this a valve issue or Temp/Pressure switch problem? Should I reset/replace a switch?

I know the Exhaust Motor is good.

Tim McElwain

Smart Valve powers the

combustion air blower which pulls in the pressure switch. Do you have 120 volts at C3 on the valve? If not then the control board may be bad. If you do then after prepurge the igniter should be getting 24 volts check the two blue wires. If the pilot lights then do you have 24 volts to C1 on Smart Valve, if yes and the valve does not come on the valve is bad.

Thermal

Honaywell SV9541 smart valve problem

I have a Comfortmaker furnace with Honeywell's SV9541 Smart Valve and during the inspection by my service provider I was told that the valve does not hold (close) the gas when the furnace does not call for gas.  Does this happen a lot?  The technician has connected some device to the valve test port to measure the pressure drop.  It was dropping rather quick.  He also had some sort of sniffer that indicated about 900 ppm of gas around the orifices when the furnace was not calling for gas.  Should the smart valve hold the pressure for long and or ppm should be close to 0?  The servicemen told me that the valve replacement will cost $500 and the issue is with my both furnaces!  Any comments would be appreciated.

Tim McElwain

I assume you are

talking about a gas valve which is allowing gas to pass through the valve with no power applied. This is not a frequent occurrence but needs to be replaced as it is dangerous and the tech should have made your equipment inoperative.



Was this natural gas or Propane?



Did the tech remove all the wires from the valve when conducting this test?



Was the tech aware of the fact that Smart Valve does not have an internal gas shut off and should not be exposed to pressures greater than 14" W.C. about a 1/2 pound of pressure? The gas shut off is ahead of the valve somewhere in the gas line.



The fact that this happened on both furnaces makes me wonder if the tech knew what he was doing. I would get a second opinion.

mlee55

Hi all,

Although this forum hasn't been active for a while, I stumbled upon it after having my furnace go out in the recent couple of days. And with the recent snow storm on the east coast, I am scrambling for some advice before I call a technician.

I have a Comfortmaker with a Honeywell Smart Valve SV9541. Before the furnace went out, the heat came on pretty sporadically and then eventually just shut off. I checked inside and there is a green light indicator on the Smart Valve and it isn't blinking, took the blower out and had it tested and it's running, checked the transformer and it has 24 volts. At this point I am stumped and the only thing I can think is an issue is maybe the circuit board?

Any comments and advice would be greatly appreciated!