Frigid in the bedroom.

mark smith · January 2006

Yea ...

my wife too

ChasMan · January 2006

My Bedroom is coooolllld!

My New to me house has a slab on grade addition. The good news is, the slab is insulated. The bad news is, It is 19' * 17', has a 12' cathedral ceiling, and is heated with 16' of fintube tacked on to the end of another zone that has rooms with warm ceilings and spillover heat from an adjacent zone! Its way out of balance. Id like to get rid of the fin tube cause it is ultra noisy. My other issue is that the return is running back underneath the fin tube. Any radiators around that I can use that will conceal the piping that arte not noisy?

Arthur · January 2006

Bedroon fridged

Humm, No good for the love life that sort of thing.
Am I right in thinking you mean that the fintube heaters are running off the same line as the radiant? If so then the fintube heaters need to run at full boiler temp ie 180 degs, if they are only running at radiant temp no wonder they don't put out much heat. No wonder you're cold.

ChasMan · January 2006

No, its all fin tube, just that the bedroom is paired with much smaller rooms with 8' warm ceiling as oposed to this behemoth with a cold cathedral ceiling. Thats why I think if I were to just seperate them into two zones the room will probably heat ok. I tried turning down all the dampers and I could remove some fins but that seems a bit mickey mouse. What I was hoping to find was something better than fin tube, perhaps cast iron, that would take a hot line in the bottom and have the return out the top. Do they make anything like this? The caset iron I have looked at seems to take 2 hot lines in one end and return out the other? It seems to not have the same btu/ft as fintube and a lot more pressure drop.

[Deleted User] · January 2006

Enerjee valves

Placed on the other baseboard convectors will shut them down and bypass them if the room to which they are attached is warm, thereby sending the hotter fluid to the end of the line. If you can't find Enerjee, find someone who carries Oventrop and they can also fill the bill.

Google both.

If will also substantially quiet down your system.

ME

ChasMan · January 2006

I found a site for Oventrop, Enerjee seems to be one of those OTWA companies looking for representation. In any case, these are what, thermostatic valves of some kind? Im not sure.. It would still be a lot of repiping but not nearly as much as a new zone. Thanks for the tip!

ChasMan · January 2006

Ok, I cant find anything other than fintube that will look ok in that room. Hmph... Might have to build something.. Hmph.

Steamhead (in transit) · January 2006

Since that room is so big

another zone might be the way to go. First, do a heat loss on the room to see how much is actually needed. Use the "Free Heat Loss Calcs" link at the upper left to get a copy of Slant/Fin's software, which is quite easy to use.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

ChasMan · January 2006

I calculated heat loss 15,500 at design which is like 2 days a year.. For instance last night I cranked the temp up to 90 and in 1/2 hour the 18 feet of baseboard brought it from 55 - 65 hour with outdoor temps 25 degrees above design (30). So, I figure Im ok with the 18 feet of baseboard heat wise. I just wanted to put in something nicer. I thought cast iron would be good but I have no floor and thus no way to run the return. Some of the euro style radiant panels would have looked great but both the supply and return would be showing. So, I thought putting in a raised floor with radiant would be good but after I add in the cost of the floor and suplemental heat Im at like 3K plus just to heat one room unless I cheap out on everything.

bob young · January 2006

how about a fan coil unit

Frigid in the bedroom.

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