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Zone me

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Gene Davis_2
Gene Davis_2 Member Posts: 71
in THE MAIN WALL
Small 1600 sf 2 story house.

Mainfloor has small vaulted-ceiling greatroom, flows over into the eat-in country kitchen with 8/0 ceiling. Both spaces adjoin one large outside wall with three glass patio doors going to the outside. Open staircase to upstairs gallery from greatroom.

A small mudroom vestibule enters great room from rear.

Down small hallway under stairs, a MBR 12 x 14 has its own small walking closet. Immediately across hall end is a 7 x 12 bathroom.

All of the above are atop the main floor deck, with full unfinished basement below.

Upstairs are two identically sized 12 x 11 bedrooms, and a shared 6 x 12 bath.

How would you zone it?

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 503
    The big three...

    1.)Common living spaces, i.e. kitchen, living room and dining rooms,

    2.)UNcommon living spaces, i.e. librarys, studys dens and

    3.) Sleeping spaces. If doing radiant floors, bathrooms should be zoned seperately from sleeping areas. If using baseboard, zone bathroom to typically used spaces.

    Also watch out for solar gain issues. If you have a north facing common use area and a south facing common use area zoned together, regardless of which room you place the thermostat in you WILL end up either frying or freezing people. Common sense has to be blended into the design.

    Unless a hall way is exterior, I generally don't throw much heat at it. Its a "transitional" area.

    You ARE going to throw some money at Dans bricks for all the free consulting you're getting here aren't you...

    I usually bill out at between $150 and $350 an hour for these services...

    ME
  • Gene Davis_2
    Gene Davis_2 Member Posts: 71


    Thanks, Mark.

    Is the I=B=R Residential Hydronic Heating coursebook, sold here by Dan for $95, a worthwhile resource?
  • Uni R_2
    Uni R_2 Member Posts: 589
    Kitchen

    If you've ever notice that your kitchen warms, maybe when cooking and people are hanging out in the kitchen. If so, I would definitely make sure the kitchen was on its own zone.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 503
    ANYTHING and EVERYTHING Holohan carries is worth reading...

    ME
  • hr
    hr Member Posts: 6,106
    What type of emitters?

    Radiant, baseboard, panel rads?

    A lot would depend on how you use the space. If the bedrooms are used off and on, I would zone each.

    Perhaps the mud room if it closes off from the rest of the home. Waybe a Runtal bench radiator or a large wall radiator to hang clothes on.

    If you go with baseboard or panel rads I would TRV each one for ultimate adjustment and comfort.

    I like to do the shower walls if they are tile, and especially if they have any outside walls.

    If thre home is radiant I would loop every room seperate, then you have the ability to split zones off later. Use a manifold that allows zone valve heads to be added. And leave a t-stat hidden in the wall where future zones may be added.

    hot rod

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  • Gene Davis_2
    Gene Davis_2 Member Posts: 71


    Baseboards, toekicks in the kitchen and downstairs bath.

    I like the idea (have done it once before) of doing PEX loops in the tiled shower walls. Had done it on the exterior walls, doing first a double 2" layer (total 4") of ridgid foam, sealed all around, then a layer of foil, the tubing against the foil. What is your method?

    Thanks for the idea of the bench or towelwarmer in the mudroom, but the budget won't stand it. We'll put a baseboard in there.
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