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Old house, new heat

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jp_2
jp_2 Member Posts: 1,935
in THE MAIN WALL
scrap the heat exchanger on a DHW tank , take a good look at what andrew suggested at the top, Laing has some very interesting stuff.

and again, know your heat load, we can help you better if you have some numbers to share.

Comments

  • Jeff Robinson
    Jeff Robinson Member Posts: 5
    Radiant Heat Questions

    I have an old home built in 1919 in Southeast Alaska. Recently I have mucked out the basement and prepped for a slab (originally for concrete walls/wood floor). I would like to install radiant heat in the slab and more tubing overhead, between the joists. I am confident in doing this work myself but am running low on same when trying to decide how to heat the water. I have chosen to use electricity to power either a boiler or a water heater to use in an open system but have heard different opinions on the practicality of using a hot water heater. My house is small 600 sq ft per zone, two zones. What would you do? Also looking for thoughts on where to best locate the manifold and boiler, storage tank etc, in basement.
  • jp_2
    jp_2 Member Posts: 1,935
    heatloss

    whats the heatloss of the structure?

    are you sure electrical heat is your best option?

    hard to find a person willing to agree to an open system. closed is the best option.
  • Unknown
    Unknown


    Ditch the idea of a open system right now.
  • Jeff Robinson
    Jeff Robinson Member Posts: 5
    Open System

    Why ditch an open system ? Electricity up here is hydro powered and it is thought that as we are able to sell off surplus the cost will not climb as fast as oil.
  • Jeff Robinson
    Jeff Robinson Member Posts: 5
    open System

    Why ditch it, some articles out there support the idea and make it seem practical and affordable?
  • Unknown
    Unknown


    Paging Dave Yates, Dave Yates to the front office please!

    Open systems (meaning combined with DHW and not separated) are;

    -Against code in most areas
    -Potentially VERY dangerous bacterial amplification systems
    -Put your entire heating system at risk of premature failure if you have any problems with water quality
    -Prevent you from ever using glycol, should you need to for any reason, and you might!
    -Only have one plus; initial cost is slightly lower. For a few hundred bucks you get a very cheap, one shot insurance policy (known as a heat exchanger or a dedicated heat source) that protects you, your home, and your heating system.

    Very bad idea, supported by nothing but "Hey, it PROBABLY won't kill you!". Personally, that's not good enough for me.
  • ALH_4
    ALH_4 Member Posts: 1,790
    Electric

    Laing makes some very nice, relatively inexpensive, electric heaters that include everything you need except the expansion tank, manifolds and fill valves.

    When you say an open system, what do you mean? Are you planning to use the same appliance for heat as for your domestic hot water?

    Due to concerns over the health risks related to stagnant water and longevity of heating system components, I would agree with everyone else in that separate heating and dhw systems are a must.

    Avoiding this can either involve installing a separate appliance for heating, or installing a heat exchanger off of your domestic water heater.

    -Andrew
  • Jeff Robinson
    Jeff Robinson Member Posts: 5


    So a closed system with a heat exchanger? Glyol or water in the heat side?
  • Jeff Robinson
    Jeff Robinson Member Posts: 5
    old house new heat

    I'm getting some good advice here about installing a radiant heating system in my basement and between upper floor joists and could use some more. I understand the danger of using DHW as a heat source in an open system and am considering a closed system using a heat exchanger. Where is the best location in an open basement for the components, in a closet, walk around access ? Any success stories out there regarding old house radiant systems that are worjking and efficient.
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