Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!

Btu meter

Options
frank_25
frank_25 Member Posts: 202
I posted a job problem a few weeks back about sizing a BFT. After careful investigation and consideration, I deceided to go to plan II. When the school was added, no one added a ZV, so the church heats up also. [Bad ZV for the church is why.] When the rear church or rectory want heat, the school gets it also. The front of the church, the alter, & sacrasty heat up with the rectory. Why?? This way the priests and congregation which would be few in number during the early morning hours could have heat. I'm keeping the two WM-1088 piped into a common header, with common returns and BFT. This way, if one breaks down, the other will take care of 75% of the connected load. To keep it simple, the total installed and bumped up load would be 15 sections, and I have 20 available [2 x 10] Wire 'em lead/lag. I'll install one new 6" steam ZV for the school, replace the church ZV, and install a BTU meter for the separate school. [Is there such and animal?] So the whole thing depends on some kind of meter. BTW, All the condensate from the school is pumped from a satalite CT directly into the return header, not the BFT. I plan on dumping that into the BFT also and install spill traps on the equalizers instead of common boiler return connections. Sounds good on paper, but what about a metering devise? Job starts in seven days, I'll post pics before and after. As always, I think I'm right about this, BUT, what do I know? I'm just a plumber.

Comments

  • Josh_10
    Josh_10 Member Posts: 786


    BTU transmitter... AKA differential pressure transmitter. Basically the set up is an orifice flange set and a device that measures the pressure drop across an orifice in the line. Generally you supply it 24VAC and it in turn transmits a 4-20MA DC signal which you can integrate with your favorite BMS.

    I would contact your local instumentation supplier for price and availability. There are many brands to choose from. Ask them which brand any type is best suited for your use. Pay attention to the PPH range as they vary widely. Also send me an email and I will give you some tips for installation. I have found a specific way to pipe them that will save you alot of trouble in the long run.

    Josh

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Christian Egli_2
    Christian Egli_2 Member Posts: 812
    Steam for everyone to be happy

    I am glad the owners are liking this idea. It seems they are also going for some improvements on their side of the zoned steam (don't forget vacuum breakers and open to the atmosphere air holes.)

    I don't know what exactly you want to do with the orifice plates, unless you want to measure steam flow rather than condensate flow. For small scale applications (like this one) steam flow measurements is more complicated than necessary. Condensate metering, on the other hand is easy and near fool proof.

    As far as the BTU condensate meter, this will all be very easy since you have all the submetered heat in the separate building coming back in one pumped condensate return line.

    The easiest is to simply add a water meter (a special one that holds up to hot water) after the condensate transfer pump and before your boiler room return system. Such liquid condensate meters can come in temperature compensated reading - which is more accurate. The readings in gallons or in pounds can be easily converted to BTU according to a steam table and your operating pressure. All this is very inexpensive and very reliable. Add a strainer to protect the meter.

    In the heat break down, tell your owners to think of how they will divide boiler maintenance cost, whether it should be split per BTU or not.

    Gravity condensate meters also exist. Those you place before the transfer pump.

    If you have a district system anywhere near you, look for a local meter supplier. In the most basic form, a hot water meter will do since you have a pumped return.

    http://www.forbesmarshall-inc.com/Controller/SubProducts/Binaries/new_condensate_meter.pdf

    http://www.epa.gov/AIRMARKET/fednox/mar99/trigen5.pdf

    http://www.cadillacmeter.com/pdf/condensate.pdf

    I'm not a big fan of traps on the headers to remove hot unboiled steam, separate equalizers being preferable. Is there a conflict problem with the two boiler operation feeding the common header?

    Good job making this sale.
  • Brad White_108
    Brad White_108 Member Posts: 23
    Simplest way

    IMHO, is to meter the condensate. Cadillac Meters are a simple paddle-wheel geared device, the dials not unlike an older style gas meter in appearance. Naturally these work best when the condensate can be isolated to one location. These meters need a tank above them (usually 30 gallons but of course "it depends"). The condensate collects, runs out through the meter and goes on it's way.

    Because it meters condensate, it takes into account the warm-up losses as well, but will obviously not pick up vapor losses as from leaking vents.

    For metering steam, personally I prefer vortex shedding meters. Metering steam itself is not cheap, regardless of how it is done, and being a gas is not as accurate as liquid due to compressibility issues.

    My $0.02

    Brad

    EDIT: Fast Fingers Christian Egli has beaten me once again :)
  • Josh_10
    Josh_10 Member Posts: 786


    Interesting take guys. Seattle Steam meters condensate with some good success. I guess I am thinking from a different perspective (perspective of the guy who has had to do the programming i.e.here's what we designed.. now you make it work Josh). You win guys I am in ageement with you.

    One thing I might ad to Brad's post though.. I would still use a differential pressure device rather than a paddle wheel (strictly from a practical sense). The paddle wheels can be a nightmare maintenance wise.

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Brad White_108
    Brad White_108 Member Posts: 23
    Paddle Wheel Trouble?

    Hey Josh-

    By paddle wheel I mean the Cadillac meter type, not on steam. I have seen Cadillac meters over 40-50 years old without issues, just keep running. (Strainer upstream of course, usually basket type).

    What problems have you encountered and what maintenence is required? Not a challenge, just curious.

    Thanks!

    Brad
  • Josh_10
    Josh_10 Member Posts: 786


    No challenge taken! I guess with anything a proper installation and commissioning will insure longetivity ( a paddle wheel for example). A cheaper installation cost for sure. I have seen alot of them ripped out and replaced with orifice valves and delta P transmitters because of poor installation and start up.

    Again I think you are thinking a little more practical installation expense wise. I am just thinking of what I have had to endure myself. I guess this is sort of an O-Ring VS. push nipple debate! More civilized though!

    Take care friend... I think I am going to do something a little less "nerdy" now. We are such nerds aren't we? Typing away about BTU transmitters and instrumentation on a Sunday!

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • frank_25
    frank_25 Member Posts: 202
    Thanks, Chris.

    > I am glad the owners are liking this idea. It

    > seems they are also going for some improvements

    > on their side of the zoned steam (don't forget

    > vacuum breakers and open to the atmosphere air

    > holes.)

    >

    > I don't know what exactly you want to

    > do with the orifice plates, unless you want to

    > measure steam flow rather than condensate flow.

    > For small scale applications (like this one)

    > steam flow measurements is more complicated than

    > necessary. Condensate metering, on the other hand

    > is easy and near fool proof.

    >

    > As far as the BTU

    > condensate meter, this will all be very easy

    > since you have all the submetered heat in the

    > separate building coming back in one pumped

    > condensate return line.

    >

    > The easiest is to

    > simply add a water meter (a special one that

    > holds up to hot water) after the condensate

    > transfer pump and before your boiler room return

    > system. Such liquid condensate meters can come in

    > temperature compensated reading - which is more

    > accurate. The readings in gallons or in pounds

    > can be easily converted to BTU according to a

    > steam table and your operating pressure. All this

    > is very inexpensive and very reliable. Add a

    > strainer to protect the meter.

    >

    > In the heat

    > break down, tell your owners to think of how they

    > will divide boiler maintenance cost, whether it

    > should be split per BTU or not.

    >

    > Gravity

    > condensate meters also exist. Those you place

    > before the transfer pump.

    >

    > If you have a

    > district system anywhere near you, look for a

    > local meter supplier. In the most basic form, a

    > hot water meter will do since you have a pumped

    > return.

    >

    > http://www.forbesmarshall-inc.com/Contr

    > oller/SubProducts/Binaries/new_condensate_meter.pd

    > f

    >

    > http://www.epa.gov/AIRMARKET/fednox/mar99/tri

    > gen5.pdf

    >

    > http://www.cadillacmeter.com/pdf/conde

    > nsate.pdf

    >

    > I'm not a big fan of traps on the

    > headers to remove hot unboiled steam, separate

    > equalizers being preferable. Is there a conflict

    > problem with the two boiler operation feeding the

    > common header?

    >

    > Good job making this sale.



  • frank_25
    frank_25 Member Posts: 202
    Thanks, Chris.

    Maybe I should clear this up a bit. There exists an 8" common steam header, with two 6" supplies [one from each boiler], three 6" building mains, and one 2" trapped header return. Building main #1 has ZV1 for rear church [stuck open]....Building main #2 first supplies front church, then ZV2 located 50' away from header is located for the rectory.......School building main #3 has no ZV.
    Each boiler has near boiler piping correct, but needs return connections from BFT replaced for a number of reasons. What I like to do is install a 1" steam trap at 1" above the operating water level. When one boiler is operating, the condensate forming at the water line of the off boiler will collect in the trap, and find it's way to the BFT. I've found that this works best to keep the water lines of the boilers from see/sawing. First time I did this change-over in another two zoned school/church with the same two boilers. Results showed me the way. Kept on doing it on every dual job I've done from 60 HP to 250 HP each. Never a water level problem. But what do I know/ I'm just a plumber. [Who loves steam]
  • frank_25
    frank_25 Member Posts: 202
    O-ring/nipple

    You HAD to bring that up? Seein' how I started this thread, I must address that issue. Years ago, I sold & installed a heck of a lot of brandy new "Some kinda rubber" sealed boilers. Thought they were a good idea. Noe, I've removed far too many of these boilers as compared to the standard push nipple boilers. For residental I sell push nips, or steel at 50 HP and up.
  • Christian Egli_2
    Christian Egli_2 Member Posts: 812
    Playing fastball and going for the Magnus effect

    Well, I'm done with the nerdy outdoor stuff for now, it was beautiful outside, but too sunny and now too dark. Pretty soon it'll be too rainy and too cloudy, and I'm too whiny.

    Frankie, I had a totally different picture in my mind of your system - it was what I thought I remembered from the last time. Thanks for taking the time to clear it up. Just for the record, I have nothing at all against spill over traps. I'm sorry.

    Back to steamy stuff. There's never anything to complain about there...

    Of the two methods, measuring the steam gas or measuring the liquid condensate, and my neutral point of view... to add to the challenge... :)

    Just a few years back, measuring flow, in a three inch diameter pipe for instance, would cost a fortune. The mechanical turbines definitely had their limitations as far as measurements from low flow to high flow (high velocity flow occurring on low pressure start up). Electric impulse type turbines nowadays are much better and of course, they rely on wonderful electronics, and, I think, we see more turbines again.

    Steam has long been measured with thin orifice plates, also with venturi jets, and with pitot tubes, and floating cone shaped plugs. All these gadgets were never cheap to buy nor to operate. The weak point of a pre-electronic age was the mechanical integrators. Add in measurements for fluctuating temperature, pressure and steam saturation point, and you were left to analyze chart planimeters by hand and perform live integrations, hourly, weekly, monthly... it wasn't easy, you needed a PhD to be a meter reader...

    With such an involved procedure these methods were not highly practical, and highly subject to error in wildly erratic space heating applications and thus worthy of all of the steam customers' evil suspicions. These machines were expensive to buy, expensive to read and expensive to maintain.

    Enter electronics, particularly in the very last few years, and the advent of wireless networks and these orifice devices are the easiest thing to implement. Two pressure transducers and a bunch of other sensors all plugged into some plain (again by today's standard) software and you can build your instantaneous integrator with all the complexity you wish. Easy-ish and affordable. (We use this sort of stuff on compressed air lines) Advantage Josh. :)

    Compare all this fancy fluid flow analysis to the simple Cadillac metering drum which measures liquid condensate by the bucket. Meter reading only involves looking at a dial. It's so easily comprehensible to a property manager or a tenant or anyone else, that it is never necessary to have to pull your meter boy by the ear to get a correct reading. (Electric meters with peak demand readings already fly way above general comprehension). Advantage Brad. :)

    Same thing with your water meter. Everyone is happy with them because they look so innocent.

    That's why I think Frankie's application might be best served with a water meter (in gallons) placed after the properly throttled condensate return pump. Should the parish and the school board ever get into an argument and start pulling each other's ears over the meter readings, all you need to do is test the fancy integrator with a gallon jug - anyone can do that, plus anyone can visualize water flowing. Gasses are more mysterious. Also, without electronics, you have no reset button to fiddle with, just seemingly incorruptible mechanical hands.

    But to keep up with time, I have to acknowledge electronics and gas flow meters are ever more and more interesting to look into and so is internet based data acquisition. The advances are wild, but you still need to trust them intuitively. There's still the vortex and the ultrasonic and (for liquids) the Coriolis and the magnetic. Choice.

    Here is why I like condensate meters in gallons, I like metric units too, but this one here is really good - it's like magic.

    Let's say we burn one therm of gas, or one CCF. A CCF is worth 100,000 BTU. We burn it with the standard combustion efficiencies of 80%. With what we've got we make steam which will condense in a radiator at, say 212F, loaded with 1150 BTU/lb. Returning from the radiator, the condensate is still hot, let's say 180F, the unused heat amounts to 148 BTU/lb. The net heat transported is thus 1150-148 = 1002 (or 1000) BTU/lb. Also reading from a table, a gallon of water at 180F weighs 8 lb. Isn't it neat how the stars are lining up?

    Let's see how many gallons of condensate we'll watch floating by as we boil steam for one CCF worth of gas... no adding machine needed...

    1 CCF gas * (100000 BTU / CCF gas) * 0.8 * (1 lb steam / 1000 BTU) * (1 lb condensate / 1 lb steam) * (1 gal condensate / 8 lb condensate) = 10 gal condensate.

    Isn't that wild? 1 CCF of gas converts to 10 gallons of condensate. In other words, if your gallon-o-meter measures 2340 gallons, you'd better find something like 234 CCF on the gas meter (plus some allowances for blow down and steam losses, that's why feed meters are wonderful). Also, if your boiler efficiency is no longer up to it, the 0.8 coefficient changes and messes up the numbers a bit, but oh well. Match point: Christian ;)

    There, wasn't this a heap load of fun? Anyone want to play tennis with me, I don't cheat, my arbitration is completely above board and neutral... ahem. Isn't it nice how this little kid is playing all by himself?

    Best regards to all ;o

    CH
  • frank_25
    frank_25 Member Posts: 202
    do the math

    .......then it follows that since we are talking oil here, 140,000/gal=40%>cuft gas. Then, gal. of condensate used X .6 = gal/oil ??? [it's late & i'm getting foggy]
  • Josh_10
    Josh_10 Member Posts: 786


    Why did I mention that? O-Ring guy til I die. (Just becuase I cuss quite a bit while re-building push nipple boilers.)

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • Christian Egli_2
    Christian Egli_2 Member Posts: 812
    Awww, the nice numbers all spoiled

    With oil, with 140000 BTU instead of 100000 for gas, you get 14 gallons of condensate instead of 10.

    Approximately, every 14 gallons of condensate flowing by, amount to 1 gallon of burnt fuel. (corrections may be needed for efficiency and for maintenance costs)

This discussion has been closed.