30% efficiency gain on Burnham 206 gas boiler
A quick update on a previous thread about my sister's Burnham 206 atmospheric gas boiler. She bought the house last summer in the Boston suburbs and got slammed with a $6k+ gas bill for 3300 sq ft last winter. I visited periodically through the winter and noticed the boiler room was always hot and the boiler water temp was always 170-180. And it looked to me like the boiler was short-cycling. I suspected the boiler was running inefficienctly, but we didn't know how bad it was until this summer when the gas company sent her a letter saying they had mistakenly billed her for the wrong meter, and instead of a $3k gas bill, her actual bill was over $6k. Fortunately because it was their error, they didn't make her pay the extra $3k.
When I heard how much gas she had used, I ran some house heat loss numbers and felt certain the heat loss should not be bad enough to fully account for the high gas usage. I then did a survey of the heating system and found numerous problems: too many zones, thermostats with differentials set too low, no automatic vent damper, and boiler short-cycling, typically bouncing off the aquastat high limit of 180 F.
With help from the good HH'ers here, I did the following:
- Changed thermostat settings to maximize differential/swing.
- Disconnected some thermostats and jumpered several contiguous zones together on the Taco 6-zone controller so those circs ran off one thermostat.
- Installed a new auto vent damper to replace the one that had originally come with the boiler but then was removed at some point.
- Installed a new Tekmar 256 reset controller at the suggestion of @Steamhead . I have it set for a minimum water temp of 140 and a max of 160 at outdoor design temp. Those are "first cut" settings that can be adjusted later if needed.
Now in the first month of the heating season here in New England, I have some preliminary results.
Last year's heating season total average usage was 0.40 therms/HDD65 (after subtracting for DHW).
Last year's October billing period usage was also 0.40 therms/HDD65. So that number appears to have been stable across a range of temperatures throughout the winter.
This year's October billing period usage (for the first 3 weeks in October) was 0.27 therms/HDD.
That is a 30%+ reduction in therms/HDD65 (after correcting all usage for DHW).
With the Tekmar 256 running ODR, the boiler stops firing noticeably sooner while the circulators continue running. I'm further encouraged by the fact that I didn't install the Tekmar until 1 week into this 3-week test period. (The actual bill from the gas company will come next week, but I read the meter myself today and did the math for the 3 weeks ending today). So future billing periods in which the Tekmar is running the entire time should be slightly better.
I will continue to monitor future billing periods but am optimistic/hopeful that the 30%+ reduction in therms/HDD65 will continue through the winter.
Thanks to everyone who made suggestions, especially @Steamhead for the Tekmar 256, which is working great.
Comments
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Thanks for the update, @jesmed1 . Glad to help.
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I wonder if it will cycle at 160 when it gets really cold. If it is over radiated maybe not. 30% is crazy good.
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I think the right perspective is the boiler was set up crazy bad to start with: vent damper had been removed, too many zones, micro zones, Tstat swing settings too low, etc, etc. It just shows how inefficient you can make a cast iron boiler with a bad setup. @hot_rod often shows that Brookhaven Labs cycle efficiency graph that drops off steeply. Maybe we were at 45% cycle efficiency before and have now gotten up to around 60%.
I didn't get around to finishing the radiation calcs, so I'm just guessing on the reset curve. The most efficient strategy is to set the curve deliberately too low, then wait for the outside air temps to drop low enough that the system can't keep up, and adjust incrementally. With the max target temp now set at 160, with the Tekmar's differential added in, the actual max temp will be around 170, then dropping to 150 or so before the boiler fires again. It might be December or January before the radiation can't keep up at that temp, if at all. Now that I know the Tekmar is working right, I'm tempted to drop the reset curve further and see how low I can go before the radiation can't keep up. The deeper I can get into the season with the 140 minimum, the better.
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I have an old HE-5 that was sucking down 1400-1700 gallons of LP annually in a 2800SF 5 unit apartment building I bought a few years ago. Literally the only things I did were turn the water temp from 180 to 160 and add a Ranco inline as a WWSD of sorts set to 70*. Last winter it used approximately 900 gallons, though one of the units was empty for a couple months so it was only set to 50*. For being a 35 year old dinosaur boiler that's way too big with 4 micro zones, I thought that was a pretty big step in the right direction. I bought a scratch & dent CGi-4 this spring for a song to replace the HE-5 with, but never got around to installing it yet so I may have another year to compare. I hope your sister appreciates your expertise!
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@jesmed1 If the radiation can't heat the building with the water temp your using will not the Tekmar just keep cycling the boiler on and off without reaching temp contributing to short cycling? I agree the lower the water temp the less fuel you use. Just wondering if it is a case of diminishing returns. Either way you have saved (or will save) a bunch of fuel.
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