Plumbing Question

1865 · September 13

My apologies as this in not related to heating.

I noticed a water leak at the first pressure gauge after the main main water shut off gate valve in my basement. The gauge is partially filled with water and seems to be leaking at the base around the threads.

I’m worried that if this completely fails (I don’t know this gauge’s internal construction) water is going be gushing out. Added issue is that the electrical box sits very close to it.

Is the an ASAP, call a plumber tonight on a Saturday issue, or could I possibly try to turn off the gate valve myself and replace the pressure gauge with a threaded plug (I’d have to go to Home Depot).

Note: There is a ball valve located after the gate valve which I would shut prior to closing the gate valve to do the work

Also, do I risk the gate valve leaking after I shut it off and open after a plug is installed?

Thank you.

EBEBRATT-Ed · September 13

The valve at the meter inlet from the street is not a gate valve as those are not made in an angle configuration. Its a angle globe valve.

I would open a faucet partway somewhere and start closing the globe valve. If the water flow stops then the valve holds. Don't kill the valve just snug it up. If the valve leaks by a little you can still remove the gauges since it is threaded fittings

The reason for the pressure gauges is that you have a presure reducing valve and the gauges are for the adjustment of that valve. If it were me I would remove both gauges and install 2 1/4" brass nipples and 2 1/4" threaded ball valves and 2 1/4" brass plugs or 1 new gauge on the pipe going to the house.

Since it just started leaking I would make the swap during the week when you can get a hold of the plumber or city water dept if you have an issue but I think you will be fine.

PC7060 · September 13

That’s a strange setup. The gauge is bad as I’m sure you’ve guessed.
Not a critical repair but I wouldnt wait weeks. Concur with your plan; close the valve located just before the water meter, remove the bad gage (both actually) and plug the tees.
Should take 15 minutes.
You'd need a crescent (adjustable) wrench, Teflon tape and 2 plugs.

1865 · September 13

Thank you both for the feedback.

If I was to plug both t’s I would be eliminating and way to gauge water pressure internally.

I recall the first gauge being pinned perse, maybe the incoming water pressure was greater than the gauge’s max reading (?). The pressure gauge after the pressure reducer reads 70psi.

Wouldn’t I want to at least keep the pressure gauge after the pressure reducer…just replacing it with a new one?

PC7060 · September 13

Most house do not have pressure gauges permanently installed; you may see in homes with well water system but it’s unusual otherwise. If required, a inexpensive gauge can be attached to hose bid.
If you wish to keep the gauges, be sure to install a 1/4 turn shutoff valve in front of gauge as @EBEBRATT-Ed recommended.

hot_rod · September 13

I would replace both gauges and add a couple gauge cocks 1/4 male x female

70 psi is fairly high and if the upstream gauge reads 70, the PRV may be bad

mattmia2 · September 13

if the bourdon tube in that gauge were to split open completely it wouldn't be jut a trickle but it wouldn't be a huge flow either, it would be like the amount of water that comes out of a faucet.

Intplm. · September 14

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1903721#Comment_1903721

Do this as @EBEBRATT-Ed says. Be very careful when closing the street side valve. If it breaks in the closed position and you tighten the valve too much, it could break in the closed position, and then you will need to replace it. This is why he mentions how to close the valve carefully. The next valve is in the street? Buried? And that can turn into quite an ordeal to correct.

Its ok to have some water dribble out as you change the gauge. Thank heaven for a basement that isn't finished.

HomerJSmith · September 16

Looks like a Watts pressure reducing valve.

I never installed one with 2 pressure gauges,only one to set the pressure. Now, I use Caleffi's with a gauge unless I need an exact fit. I solder in a hose bibb drain down valve after it and use a hose bibb pressure gauge on it to set the regulator.

These pressure reducing valves fail (I've replaced numbers of them) usually pressure creep. If it's old I would replace it. Prices are only going higher.

The globe valve and meter are there forever. However, I would solder in a full port ball valve before the reducing valve and a hose bibb after the reducing valve for a house drain down if there isn't a reverse drain thru the reducing valve. A combination ball valve and drain (Webstone) if there is.

The cheap fix—do as @EBEBRATT-Ed suggested. S**t-can the bad gauge and get a 1/8" brass threaded plug, wrap a couple of turns of Megatape around it and plug it in and go to bed. Treat that globe valve gingerly and while it is closed think about replacing the other old gauge or not. I guess, if you insist, you can replace the bad gauge.

If you find that after closing the globe valve and the pipe dribbles water and you want to solder in a ball valve, you can use a tool to shut off the flow in the pipe and solder in a ball valve and remove the tool and shut off the flow with the ball valve.

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