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Cost of replacing a fuel line from indoor tank to furnace

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AUNTCHICK1
AUNTCHICK1 Member Posts: 1
in Oil Heating

Our current oil line runs under a concrete floor and needs replaced (over 60 years old). We would prefer to run the new line above the floor so that, if in the future, repairs are needed, the line can be accessed easily (not sure why someone thought it was a good idea to run it under a cement floor :P). I need to get a general cost amount to do this so I can add it to a refi loan (or at least a between this amount and that amount). It will require about 12-14 feet of new line. Questions A. How can we protect the new line that will be above the floor (tank is about 12-14 feet from furnace on different walls); B. can we just drain and seal off the old line??

Comments

  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,681

    We dont discuss pricing as per forum rules.

    Lots of options on protection. Sleeve it in pvc coduit or emt.

    Oil line does have a plastic coating which adds some protection already.

    The line really should be sucked dry of oil.

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 12,190

    I remember putting in new oil burners in the 1970s and 80s. We needed to get the heat back on when the burner job was done in the winter months. As a result, some jobs ran over time. But the tidy-up portion, like hanging the wire support straps and cementing the fuel line, was often left for the helper to do the next day.

    I remember going back to a job where the oil line was just laying on the floor across a walking area between the wall and the heater. I would be the apprentice who needed to chip out the floor so the fuel line would be below the floor surface and cement that section of the floor over the recessed fuel line.

    Once it was next to the wall, we would push the fuel line against the corner of the wall and floor and place a 45° cement cover over that fuel line. This is very easy to chip out to do repairs then just mix up a small batch of "sand mix" or "mortar mix" to re-cement the repair area.

    If you don’t want to do the cement thing, then you can try the overhead fuel line approach. But if you look up "overhead fuel lines", you will find many problems with that setup. The easy fix is to include a TigerLoop with that job to make sure those problems are minimized. Also the rules about BoiFuel may make some of your oil pumps, fuel filters and TigerLoop fail if you get the original parts. When ever changing those parts, be sure the gaskets or the parts are biofuel rated. the standard A2VA 3000 pump should be replaces with the A2VA-3000B for example

    There is a 3/8" copper fuel line that comes with a plastic coating that will make the replacement fuel line code-compliant for direct burial, like the covered-with-cement idea I used to do when the old dead men taught us old farts how to do it.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 7,450

    What other factors are involved? If the oil line is 60 years old, how old is the tank? Is the tank valve flare or compression? Or is it top fed? What burner is the oil line connected to on the other side? Where is the oil filter? Does it warrant an OSV? Who services the equipment? Would they be able to give you a quote? There's more to running a new oil line than just running a new oil line.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 20,181

    The problem with an overhead fuel line is trying to find someone that knows how to flare tubing. I am sure they will be pro pressing or zoom locking that as well or shark bite.

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