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Boiler Safety Upgrade: Installing a Second Pressure Control in Series

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RayWohlfarth
RayWohlfarth Member Posts: 1,975
edited March 6 in THE MAIN WALL

This video talks about adding a second boiler pressure control and wiring it in series. Its sometime good to go back to the basics.

Ray Wohlfarth
Boiler Lessons
Tom8o

Comments

  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,537

    Great advice and no nonsense explanation as usual. Clear, cogent, concise! Mad Dog

  • RayWohlfarth
    RayWohlfarth Member Posts: 1,975

    @Mad Dog_2 thanks again my friend

    Ray Wohlfarth
    Boiler Lessons
    Mad Dog_2
  • BillyS
    BillyS Member Posts: 10

    Very helpful, I was thinking about adding a second pressurecontrol to my residential, one pipe system. They system runs fine and I have the pressure controller set to cut out at 1.5 psi and in at 0.5. Two questions.. Ray talks about commercial boilers. Would it be worth it to do this on a residential boiler? (I'm thinking yes…). Second question.. Would I better of purchasing a vapor controller?

    For background.. the boiler is a bit oversized, so on cold days it does cycle back and forth between at a rate of once every four minutes or so.

  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 8,537

    Yes..and No! If you want The Belt & Suspenders set up, a Manual reset pressuretrol in series is fine, but not inexpensive. Vaporstats are fantastic, but with an already oversized, you will exacerbate the short cycling 🚲 πŸ˜‰. Mad Dog

    BillyS
  • RayWohlfarth
    RayWohlfarth Member Posts: 1,975

    @BillyS two controls would make it safer You should be able to use a standard pressuretrol with the pressures your running. You would have to decide whether the other control be your limit control and set higher than the operating control and whether you want a manual reset. I would never mount both controls on same pigtail. Good luck

    Ray Wohlfarth
    Boiler Lessons
    BillyS
  • BillyS
    BillyS Member Posts: 10

    This is what I thought. Operating at potentially a lower pressure would only serve to make the cycles shorter. It's so strange because my EDR is 321.3 square feet. This includes a loop that acts more like a hydronic system too (cast iron baseboard). When I calculate the BTUs (240 for steam, 150 for hot water), I get around 72,000. I have all the piping insulated so using a pick up factor of 1.33, works out to 95,000 BTUs, the boiler nameplate is 375 square feet or 90,000 BTUs, so it really shouldn't be oversized. I know my EDR calculations are correct, not sure what I am missing and why the boiler acts like it is oversized.

  • ttekushan_3
    ttekushan_3 Member Posts: 965

    Redundancy in safety limit controls are always a good idea.

    This goes for hi temp limit controls on traditional hot water boilers as well. Your post is timely. Recently had a 1.5 MBTU boiler hold the burner on. That was entertaining. Big old National CI boiler that could also be outfitted for steam. This hot water boiler released its alter ego steam desires into the boiler room in what must have been a dramatic display of flash steam. We learned exactly how much black muck collects over 72 years in a mixed metals system. The boiler room and everything in it turned black, and the floor thick. Multiple flange seals leaking.
    On the bright side, the boiler seemed to enjoy the purge. After thorough cleaning, replacing the aquastat and adding another, stack temp is lower and water temperature rises noticeably more quickly to meet heating load. They lucked out but what a mess.

    Terry T

    steam; proportioned minitube; trapless; jet pump return; vac vent. New Yorker CGS30C

    Mad Dog_2
  • Brian1951
    Brian1951 Member Posts: 1

    Great tips. πŸ‘οΈ thank you.

  • SteamHeat
    SteamHeat Member Posts: 160

    "

    This is what I thought. Operating at potentially a lower pressure would only serve to make the cycles shorter. It's so strange because my EDR is 321.3 square feet. This includes a loop that acts more like a hydronic system too (cast iron baseboard). When I calculate the BTUs (240 for steam, 150 for hot water), I get around 72,000. I have all the piping insulated so using a pick up factor of 1.33, works out to 95,000 BTUs, the boiler nameplate is 375 square feet or 90,000 BTUs, so it really shouldn't be oversized. I know my EDR calculations are correct, not sure what I am missing and why the boiler acts like it is oversized.

    "

    BillyS,

    Look at your low pressure gauge when the boiler shuts off. Time how long it takes to go down to 2 oz. If it is very rapid, beyond what you would expect from the collapsing steam field, you probably have a radiator vent valve (or main vent valve) that is leaking (possibly due to wet steam). If so, consider replacing the vent valve, possibly a smaller vent valve, trying to dry your steam by lowering the water level in the boiler slightly, lifting the vent valve on a short nipple as extension, etc.

    HTH

    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 304

    That is really good troubleshooting information! besides spending more time in the field, which I'm doing, where can I learn more of that. Is there a good book? seminar? etc?