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NTI TRX150C boiler issues

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we have a NTI TRX150C boiler which is about 6 or 7 years old now. The boiler has been had several issues and we have spent a lot on service with techs scratching their heads unable to fix it.

we are currently o lot using this u it for domestic hot water.

The boiler is overheating and erroring out with 101, 103, 104 & 105 error codes daily.

issues started 4 years in. Constantly having to reset the boiler.

sensors were replaced, pump was replaced twice, techs are calling for a board replacement and advising we give up and replace it all together.

NTI said to descale.

any chance this will help?

I’ve noticed it’s turning on and the pump only showing a blue light intermittently.

Any last ditch effort ideas. We have had 2-3 years of constant issues and are ready to give in and replace this thing…

Comments

  • pedmec
    pedmec Member Posts: 1,283

    Descaling should absolutely help. if the flat plate heat exchanger or boiler heat exchanger is plugged. What type of heating system do you have. cast iron radiators, baseboard. hydroair, etc?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,748

    I bet that the original installer connected it to a cast iron gravity system that was upgraded to a forced hot water system in the 50s or 60s. That old gravity system has a lot of sludge in those old pipes, and I bet the Installer of that NTI didn't even flush out the system, let alone add a strainer near the boiler return inlet. Descale and flush the boiler and radiator system with some good additives to clean up that mess.

    Driving a Rolls Royce without maintenance, oil changes and constantly low on fluids will make that car run like crap and break down. likewise a Toyota or a Chevy economy car that is well maintained can run circles around a poorly maintained "anything" no matter how much you paid for it. Does that mean that Rolls Royce makes crappy cars and Chevy makes great cars? I don't think so!

    Get your system cleaned up and it will operate much better.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 27,058

    run a cleaner in the boiler, it is coul type boiler it needs clean water, clean waterways

    descale the dhw heat exchanger

    Has it been opened up to check the combustion chamber, that should be done every two years.

    Any or all of these can lead to high temperatures error codes and lock outs

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Tom_133
    Tom_133 Member Posts: 969

    Sadly the comments above are correct. At this point where to start…

    The internal pump on that model and FTVN's are kinda not great. I have had quite a few go, and it doesnt always give a great error code for diagnostics. The other problem with both models is that the supply and return sensors are kinda pathetic in how little it takes for them to fail. Then of course right beside both sensors are connections to the heat exchanger which at least on the FTVN were prone to leaks, which then killed the sensor.

    That model is the lowest priced, and least successful model they sell. If you are in a position to swap and get some peace of mind I would consider it. Or as mentioned above clean heat exchanger, flush plate, swap both supply and return sensors and the circ. That will reset you to an excellent starting point and you can pretty easily troubleshoot from there.

    Tom
    Montpelier Vt
    BrandonMI8612kcopp
  • BrandonMI8612
    BrandonMI8612 Member Posts: 3

    that sounds pretty consistent with what I have heard. We have a forced Air Force for heat, the boiler does in floor heat and domestic on a new build installed in 2019. We do have a water softener.

    when it acts up, it can be a nightmare. Sensor 2 years ago and the pump twice now…

    it’s good to at least hear the descaling and cleaning all of the filters will help.


    where can I get the sensors?

  • BrandonMI8612
    BrandonMI8612 Member Posts: 3

    I may have covered this, but the only other symptom is after changing the internal pump twice, most recently 1 week ago. When calling for hot domestic water and watching the unit, it fires up heats up and the blue light indicating the pump is working usually comes on, but sometimes comes on and turns right off. Sometimes it doesn’t come on at all and of course over heats.

  • GGross
    GGross Member Posts: 1,772

    The pump in those is the Taco ECM right? Nothing wrong with those pumps, they will however shut themselves down if they get too hot to prevent burnout. I imagine there is a bunch of magnetite inside the pump. If you do not have a magnetic filter on your system then your ECM pump will become one.