Short cycling+ unbalanced heat

if you have 77’ and 67’ of fin tube x 500 btu/ ft the fin tube can move 72,000 btu/ hr if the load is 80K you are not far off. The fin at 180 supply probably get you to 80,000

Is the boiler 100, 000 output. The issue with that boiler is it cannot modulate, so if only 1 zone is heating, you balanced the other way down, then you have too much boiler and it will cycle. It will cycle more on mild days when the load is low.

In an ideal condition on a design day the boiler would run 24 hrs, adding exactly what the home is loosing.

Perhaps a better way to balance up and down levels is to close dampers instead of closing off flow?

10 minute run is not too bad, what is the off cycle?

A good number to know is the return temperature at the boiler at the 10 minute shutoff.

I might add that a 3/4" copper pipe can move about 40,000 BTU of heat. Your boiler can deliver 100,000 BTUs of heat, The WM WGO-3 has a Net output of 100,000 BTU. That is about 250% more capacity than the output of a 3/4" copper pipe can handle. You are correct about choking the piping down before it splits into the two different loops. Even if you had a smaller firing rate, the lowest recommended NET output would be 85,000 BTU. and that is still more than 200% oversized for the 3/4" pipe.

The first step is to get the near boiler piping correct. With two 3/4" loops from the boiler to the tee where they spit should be a minimum of 1" copper pipe. A 1" copper shared pipe can handle about 80,000 BTU and as @hot_rod indicated you have about 80,000 of heat emitters, so that would balance out just fine.    

The next problem is the first floor being too cold. Well that is a matter of your thermostat setting.  Set the thermostat where you are comfortable on the first floor.  When the second floor gets too hot, you can close the air damper on each radiator unit to minimize the output of that particular radiator section.  Some rooms on the second floor may get too hot and shutting off the air flow thru the radiator will cut as much as 70% of the radiator's heating output.  There will always be radiant heat from that hot surface but the convection air flow is most of the output.  Stop the air flow and you stop the heat flow.

EDIT:

Looking at the cycle timing of the burner seems to prove that the piping is too small. During a call for heat after the boiler is up to the high limit temperature, the run time to off time ratio is almost 2 to 1 Off to On. that bears out the fact the the pipe is too small by a ratio of 2 to 1. Get a bigger pipe and you will move more heat.

There is one other thing to look at. If your home actually needs 80,000 BTUh of heat on the coldest day or the winter (which it most likely does not), you may find that your radiators can not make the home reach the thermostat set-point on the very cold days. You may need 50,000 when it gets near zero outside but the thermostat will never go above 65° since you are only moving 40,000 BTUh of heat. That might be enough for a 65° temperature difference (∆T) when you actually need 70° ∆T. If it goes below zero to -5° then the home will only get to 60° inside … and so on. You need a bigger pipe

What is your high limit set at? You can easily set it at 190 which should give you a 180 average water temp in the baseboard.

Taking supply and return water temps on each zone and look to get the same return water temp on each zone when both are heating

if you have a multiple speed pump, you can squeeze a bit more output by increasing the flow(speed) of the water.

Fin tube output charts show 1 and 4 gpm. If you hear water hissing in the copper tube that is too fast, back it down a speed.

if we assume you are moving 4 gpm thru the 3/4 copper

490x4gpmx12 delta= 23,520 btu/ hr

490x4x22 delta= 43,120 btu/ hr

Added together you are moving 66,400 btu/hr

Some pressure readings across the pump would be one way to know IF in fact you are moving 4 gpm. If you had that exact gpm number to put into the above formula you would get a more accurate picture

One thing to know, when you take the delta temperature you want the system to be at thermal equilibrium the fin tube extracting what the boiler can add. To know that condition measure supply and return, when those readings stop moving, up or down you are at thermal equilibrium point to get an accurate delta reading.

This could involve some bucket time to get to the point of getting accurate readings. With an oversized boiler you will probably keep bouncing off the high limit, which makes the data collection a bit more time consuming.

The heat emitters drive the operating condition of the boiler, not vice versa.

It would be interesting to see what the second floor would show with dampers open?

If it jumped to 40 k and the lower is 40 k that is about reasonable. I don’t see a repipe at the boiler changing what the zones can move with 3/4 tube if your moving 4 gpm which that pump is capable of. Maybe the pump impeller is worn or damages as you suspected?

But if the heat load at design is 80K or less you should be fine other than some balancing.

The short cycling is not as easy to eliminate. A 100k boiler, even at design is too large.

At less than design day, probably 80% of the heating season the boiler appears even more “oversized” to the smaller load conditions

Has the system ever worked properly over the 11 years? 1450 square feet of home even at a fairly high 30 btu/ sq ft is 43,500 btu/ hr load. Your current piping and pumping should easily cover that. Your fin tube installed can move 72,000 at 500 btu/ ft.