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Peerless 211A burner control upgrade?

Bill_69
Bill_69 Member Posts: 17
in Gas Heating

I am new to an account with (2) Peerless 211A-05-W/S boilers. One is utilizing the OEM standing pilot and RM7890C1005 controller. Unit is running fine. The other boiler has been down because it has been converted to spark pilot, and RM7890A2056 controller. Nobody has been able to make it run at all. I looked it over and see no real issues with what has been done already. (Pretty simple actually). I turned it on to see what it attempts to do. Without a call for heat, module establishes connection, goes to standby, and then locks out on Fault 10 Preignition ILK.
I have verified that the component wiring is correct, there is a jumper between terminal 6 and 7 (which I don’t totally understand) and the only other thing I know for now is that in the display module, the VP setting is set to NEVER. (There is no valve proving switch in this valve)
I feel like the controller isn’t the correct one for this set up, or that something is missing here. I’m half tempted to add a jumper from 3-20 to satisfy the VP interlock, but a bit nervous about this. Can’t get much help from Honeywell as I’m not a dealer I suppose, and can’t find any reliable info anywhere else. I am waiting to get back to the Peerless rep to ask if I could just put it back the way it was. Someone out there must have done this conversion before?
Thanks

Comments

  • Bill_69
    Bill_69 Member Posts: 17

    I apologize for not being more clear. The 6-7 jumper, and the 3-20 jumper are referring to the sub base terminals for the RM7890.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,264
    edited October 17

    Interesting situation. You have two boilers that are using the same control system…. the last 4 digits of the Honeywell RM7890 are different which means that one of them has a slight difference that could amount to nothing at all.

    Has you (or anyone) tried to place the working controller on the boiler that is inoperable and the inoperable boiler's control on the other boiler?

    If the problem follows the control then the control is the problem. if the problem stays with the boiler, then the control is not the problem. If the procedure makes both boilers operate, then you are a genius.

    EDIT: Let's not think about the 4th possibility.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Bill_69
    Bill_69 Member Posts: 17

    I guess I never thought to try that since the working boiler and the non working boiler have different ignition systems. I just assumed that was the difference between the two RM7890’s on this job.
    The working boiler has an RM7890C1005, and the non working boiler has a RM7890A2056.

    I wish I had better access to the Honeywell burner control knowledge that must be out there. I’m having a hard time understanding why the previous contractor couldn’t simply replace the old one when it failed. I was told they had to retrofit because the standing pilot application/burner controller wasn’t available anymore?

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,828

    You can find the Info on line.

    Those controls (at least when I was working) couldn't be purchased at the average supply house even if they sold Honeywell. You had to go to a Honeywell distributor.

    If you look online you can find the info you need but a lot of work to sort through all the models.

    There are 3 parts to those controls, chassis, flame amplifier and programmer. If one is a standing pilot and one is spark they are not the same controls.

    Can you post a wiring diagram?

    Pre ignition interlocks would be a control that would have to be closed before ignition and then open when running like a gas valve proof of closure switch, low fire proving switch etc. The attached may help.

    honeywell_checkout_test_fault_codes.pdf

    I can probably help you out but need to know more about the controls and system you have

    EdTheHeaterMan
  • Bill_69
    Bill_69 Member Posts: 17

    I don’t have a diagram because the boiler didn’t come with this set up.

    Thanks for the manual you sent. I’ve read so many things the last few days, I’m not sure what’s what now!!

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,828

    @Bill_69

    I will do a little digging…… check back.

  • Bill_69
    Bill_69 Member Posts: 17

    I appreciate it. I feel like it’s looking for a valve proof closure even though it is set to NEVER in the display panel setting, and the valve doesn’t have one. When I get back there, I’m going to add a jumper on that input and see what happens. (3-20 I think?)

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,828

    The preignition interlocks are between 4 & 20 from what I have seen. They have to be closed for the control to start and must remain closed until ignition (I think) this would be for something like a fuel valve interlock switch (proof of closure) that would open after ignition.

    wired between 6 & 7 are the running interlocks. This would be something that is open on start up but must remain closed once it starts firing like an air flow proving switch which you wouldn't have with that boiler.

    I looked up the boiler on peerless web site but they don't show it with that control. They show it with a residential ignition control.

    The controls also have "1 time" configuration jumpers which when cut cant be reconnected.

    I would also chek to see if they have the right flame amplifier. Peerless should be able to help you out with this. Or maybe Honeywell has someone who can help

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