Dirty hot water, boiler overfilled, related?
This morning, I was washing something with hot water. The sink has separate hot and cold taps, so the water was coming straight from the hot water line. The only mixing valve involved is the one at the water heater. I ran a lot of water through, maybe 25 to 50 gallons.
Just as I was wrapping up, I noticed that the water had started running a little dirty. This has been happening occasionally over the summer as the town flushes the hydrants. I ran the cold tap to try to flush it out, but the cold water was clear. I let the hot water run a little more, and it kept coming out dirty. I figured maybe I got unlucky and sucked up all the sediment into the water heater and now had to let it flush itself out.
I ran the hot water full blast for awhile, but it kept coming out dirty. I figured that it would be faster to flush the tank itself. The tank is an indirect fed from the boiler. I let it drain for awhile, put fresh water in, drained some more, over and over.
While I was down there, I looked over at the boiler and noticed that the sight glass was crystal clear. That seemed odd. The heat isn't on yet, but obviously the boiler is still firing sometimes to make hot water. It should be at least a little dirty, I assume.
I looked closer and realized that the sight glass was totally full. I checked the automatic water feeder. It was showing 2 gallons. I believe it was reset in March when the boiler was serviced. Two gallons over 7 months doesn't sound bad. Definitely not enough to flood the boiler.
I drained off 15 gallons of brown water from the boiler. The sight glass was still clear and totally full. As I was filling up the bucket to get to 20 gallons, a burst of sediment suddenly came down through the sight glass, and then the sight glass finally started draining.
Are these two things related?
My theory, based on no knowledge of anything, is that there's a leak in the coil in the indirect water heater and it's pushing water into the boiler.
Another possibility is that the boiler got overfilled during servicing in March, but that seems unlikely.
For now, I shut off the the water feed to the boiler. The water tank is filled up again. I'm going to let it sit like this for a little while and see what happens.
What do you think?
Comments
-
The water heater is an HTP SSU-45 SuperStor Ultra 45 gallon. The boiler is a Weil McLain PEG-45. Both were installed in December 2013.
The guy that put them in used to do the yearly service too, but I haven't been able to get him back since COVID. The company that services that boiler now doesn't touch the water heater.
I've never drained the water heater. I don't know if the old guy ever did it either.
0 -
are the tapings for the sight glass clear?
0 -
I didn't remove the sight glass to check the tappings. However, after I filled the 3rd 5-gallon bucket and was starting on the 4th, sediment flowed down from the top of the sight glass and out the bottom. The sight glass is now filled halfway. So the tappings may not be totally clear, but they are clear enough that water and crud can flow through the top and bottom.
0 -
If you are sure the sight glass accurately reflects the water level, the 4 possibilities for the overfilling are, 1. the solenoid valve for the auto feeder is not holding. 2. the manual bypass for the auto feeder is not holding. 3. The water level in the boiler is falling enough during a heating cycle to trip the auto feeder because of system problems. 4. the coil in the indirect water heater is leaking. The first thing to do is to see if it gains water if you wait a day or 2 with the boiler off. If it does, turn off the valve ahead of the auto feeder and bypass and see if you still gain water. If you still do, turn off the potable supply to the indirect and see if you stop gaining water.
0 -
I shut off all feeds to the boiler to rule out a bad feeder. I can't rule out a bad shut off valve, I guess. If the feeder is leaking, it's doing so in a way that doesn't register on the display.
We're not in heating season yet, so the boiler hasn't made steam in a long time. It's possible it's been overfilled since the last service in March, but that seems unlikely. Also, 20 gallons seems like way too much for the feeder to have put in to make up for a temporary system problem somewhere else, right?
I called HTP and explained the situation. They agreed that my coil leak theory is plausible. I submitted a warranty claim.
The quickest way to confirm would be to shut off the supply to the water tank, drain it completely, run the circulator from the boiler, and see if I lose water in the boiler.
Dumb question: when the circulator pump between the boiler and the water tank is not running, does the pump close the loop or is water still free to pass back and forth? In other words, if there is a leak and the higher pressure domestic supply is pushing water through the coil back to the boiler, would that happen all the time or only when the pump is running?
0 -
are you gaining water now?
0 -
if the coil in the indirect is leaking it will leak water in to the boiler any time the pressure on the water in the domestic side is higher than the pressure in the boiler. In other words whenever there is city water pressure in the tank. The leak could potentially seal up as the metal changes temps and expands and contracts.
0 -
Judging by the sight glass, I gained maaaaybe a quarter of an inch since I drained the boiler.
I noticed that there's pinging or popping from the tank. I've never heard that before. Then again, I've also never drained and refilled the tank, so maybe the noise is just a one-time thing caused by a big swing from the cold refill to the hot operating temperature.
My warranty request was approved. The local plumbing supply house has the same tank in stock. I've got to find a plumber first to proceed. How long can I keep going with a leak? For all I know, it's been leaking for months.
0 -
It depends on how big the leak is. If you only have to drain some off every couple days you could run that way for a few months if you had to. If it is filling the sight glass every couple hours then it will require a lot more attention to keep it running and all that fresh water will damage the boiler if it goes on for a couple months.
0 -
I'll watch it overnight and see what happens. I'd rather not pay emergency plumbing labor prices if I don't have to. Hopefully, the boiler isn't filling too quickly and I can get it swapped out next week or the week after. Thanks for the help!
0 -
This morning, the water level in the sight glass was up about an inch and a quarter from yesterday. I drained off just over a gallon of water to get it back down to the right level.
All of the supply valves to the boiler were closed since yesterday: the valve in front of the automatic feeder, the valve behind the automatic feeder, the valve to bypass the automatic feeder, and the valve after the feeder and the bypass. Unless I have a lot of leaky valves, I don't think the problem is here.
Assuming an extra gallon a day is going to the boiler, then the 20 gallons that I drained off yesterday suggests this is a fairly new failure. The boiler may have even gotten a larger-than-normal dose yesterday because I was refilling the water tank with cold water. Cold water = metal coil in water heater contracts = hole gets bigger = more water into the boiler?
0 -
maybe, maybe not on the expansion. sometimes they seal up some of the time and are intermittent but usually they are relatively constant. If there is a union by the auto feeder you can open it and see if water keeps coming out if it. alternately you can turn off the domestic water supply to the tank and relieve the pressure and see if you stop gaining water.
0 -
Sounds like the indirect coil is leaking.
What I would do is mark the boiler water level with a sharpie and drain and shut off the indirect tank before you go to bed.
In the morning the boiler water should not have moved, or it could drop a little as it could be leaking back through the indirect as the indirect now has no pressure on it.
1 -
I shut off the supply to the tank and left it overnight. In the morning, the boiler level was a little higher, but not as much as before. I did not drain the tank because I don't have a pump or basement drain and didn't want to carry out another 45 gallons by hand. I also didn't release the pressure in the tank (e.g., by opening a faucet). I think that was a debugging mistake because I think residual pressure in the tank could explain a small rise in the boiler level overnight.
Plumber is coming Wednesday to give an estimate.
One question I'm going to have for him is whether this is a good time to upgrade to a bigger tank. I think HTP would let me pay the difference to go to a bigger size, but I'm waiting on confirmation about that. The SSU-45 was put in 12 years ago when we had a toddler and baby. Now we've got a teenager and almost teenager. It's been fine so far, but we do occasionally notice luke warm water when showers are back to back or at the same time.
Two showers, one tub that's barely used, one dishwasher, one washing machine that's almost always run on cold, one kitchen sink, three bathroom sinks.
The SSU-60 is bigger with the same size heat exchanger that I have now. The SSU-80 is bigger still with a bigger heat exchanger to go with it. I don't have 1-1/2" water lines though. The 60 is probably a much easier swap. Can probably reuse all the existing piping. The 80 would require moving all the pipes. https://htproducts.com/literature/HTP_MKTLIT_111_SuperStorUltra_ProductSheet-01.21.25.pdf
0 -
I would go bigger, i have a ssu-45 and have the temp reach a lower equilibrium while washing my now fairly long hair in the winter. You can go to the 80 but not upsize the boiler supply and you will still get much more reserve, you just may not have the maximum recovery rate depending on the size of your boiler.
No one ever complained about having too much hot water…
0 -
The plumber came today to take a look in preparation for sending a quote. He recommended the SSU-60 for a couple reasons.
He thinks the old tank is probably less efficient than it could be due to build up of crud in the coil over the last 12 years. A new tank would be instantly more efficient. Swapping the mixing valve coming off the tank might help too. (I descaled it a few years ago, but it's probably due for another vinegar bath or a swap.) Going from 45 to 60 would give me that much more headroom on top of that new efficiency. He also said that they could crank up the thermostat on the tank, which can make the tank feel bigger by reducing the amount of hot water needed to reach the desired temperature at the faucet. And the 60 has similar hookups as the 45, so it'd be an easier swap.
He said they could also do the 80 if I wanted. It'd be more work with the piping, but not much more. He said one risk is that the boiler would have to run longer to heat the much bigger tank, which might send steam into the radiators in the summer. Not sure how likely that is, or if there's a way to mitigate it.
He was comfortable with recommending the 60, but said the 80 would be for the "never want to worry about hot water ever again" scenario.
0 -
the boiler should run on an aquastat when heating the dhw tank so it never gets to boiling, it will cycle the burner if the tank doesn't take all of the output of the boiler to keep it below boiling.
the coil is probably somewhat scaled in the old tank. it reduces the transfer rate so it recovers more slowly but it doesn't exactly reduce the efficiency. technically the boiler has to run longer so there are more losses to the room and up the vent but the difference is small.
0 -
I got the quotes for taking out the SSU-45 and putting in a SSU-60 or SSU-80. They're quite a bit higher than I expected. I know we're not supposed to talk about pricing here, so I'll just say that the quote is high enough that I'm wondering if it includes the cost of the new tank and they're expecting me to get paid back by the manufacturer.
The quote lists what they're doing:
- Removal old tank
- Install new tank
- Reconnect/repipe boiler supply and return
- Reconnection/repipe hot and cold
- Install new aquastat (mine seems to work fine, so maybe just some preventative maintenance?)
- Install new mixing value (provided by me—I have a spare)
- Bleed boiler
- Test operation
There's no breakdown of parts and labor though, just the total price. Too late to call them now, so I'll see if I can get more detail in the morning.
I think putting in the 60 would be really straightforward. The tank has a bigger diameter compared to the 45, but the ports are all in the same place. The 80 would require repiping, so I expected a bigger jump in price for that one.
Either way, not much more than a half day of work for two guys, or am I underestimating the difficulty? A family member had good luck with this plumber and I was hoping to just go with them, but I'm thinking I need at least another quote.
0 -
i'm willing to pay more for a person that will do a great job. i'm not willing to pay more for someone that will do a mediocre job so maybe if you can figure out which they are.
0 -
I got a more detailed quote. The price does not include the cost of the new tank.
They're figuring a licensed plumber plus an apprentice for half a day. This cost matched my expectations.
Even if I did a like-for-like replacement and stuck with a SSU-45, the new tank isn't exactly free. There's a warranty fee from the distributor that I have to eat, and I have to pay for the plumbers' time while they get rid of the old tank and do the warranty paperwork. That fee and extra time adds a couple hundred bucks to the quotes.
The upgrade cost for the SSU-60 or SSU-80 is a little higher than I expected based on pricing that I could find online. Prices vary though though and everyone has different relationships with suppliers, so maybe it's fair. This adds another couple hundred bucks to the quotes.
Finally, the "other materials" cost is much higher than I would expect. For the SSU-80, the materials cost is about the same as the labor cost. Even just swapping in a new SSU-45 comes with a lot of materials cost. The only new hardware called out is the aquastat, so they must be planning to replace a lot of piping.
Add it up and the cost is $X for the SSU-45, $1.5X for the SSU-60, and $2X for the SSU-80.
Here's a question for the experts. More hot water is better, but is there a point where the tank is too big for my boiler to keep up? I guess this gets to the maximum recovery rate that you mentioned earlier. I tried reading the manual to see what size I could get away with, but I don't understand sizing tables. By the way, I previously said that I have a PEG-45, but I was wrong: I actually have a PEG-50.
If the 45 is good and the 60 would be great, that seems like a worthwhile upgrade. The 80 seems tempting based on "bigger is better," but I'm afraid of ending up with worse performance.
0 -
the boiler will add heat to the bigger tank at at least the same rate as the smaller tank, possibly faster if the bigger tank has more hx surface area. it can't be too big within reason, it just means the boiler may be running longer to store more energy in the bigger tank.
0 -
45 and 60 have the same 20 sq ft heat exchanger. The 80 has 34 sq ft.
Am I understanding right that the 80 won't be worse than what I have now, should be better than what I have now, but that it just might not be as good as the brochure says it could be because my boiler isn't big enough?
If so, what would you pick? 😀
0 -
why do you want such a large indirect? How many people in the house? Are you filling a hot tub or something?
an 80 is crazy and a 60 is usually to large for most homes.
0 -
We have a 45 and sometimes get not-quite-hot-enough water when both showers are going. Two adults, two kids. One crewcut, three Rapunzels.
Could be a gunked up mixing valve that's limiting the output. That was the problem a couple years ago. Back then, the water never got hot, just warm. A vinegar bath fixed it. We get hot water now most of the time. Sometimes it's just noticeably not as hot. Maybe it just needs another vinegar bath. The plumber is going to put in my spare. Maybe that will fix it, even with a 45.
Could be scale build up on the heat exchanger. Testing done by the town says the town water isn't too hard, but I haven't tested my water. Maybe a new tank with a new heat exchanger will fix it, even with a 45.
Could be something else. I don't know.
It's not bad enough that I would have ripped out the old tank and put in a bigger one. But, the old tank sprung a leak and has to come out anyway, so if I'm going to go bigger now is the time to do it.
I'm asking for advice, not insisting I need an 80 or even 60. If I'm going to spend $X anyway and still end up with not-hot water sometimes, I'll be annoyed if I could have spent $1.5X or $2X and never had not-hot water ever again.
0 -
teenagers
the 80 essentially is storing twice as much hot water as the 45. manufacturers liek to tell you that they are making hot water as fast as you use it but in a cold climate with ~35f winter incoming water and a 100k boiler you aren't making it as fast as you are using it if you are using over about 2 gpm.
0 -
I decided to go with the 60. I watched this video from Taco about indirects and learned a lot.
I think 80 would have been overkill for us. 45 probably would have been fine through the teenage years, but 60 will give me a little extra oomph so that hopefully we never have to think about hot water.
Thanks for the help.
0 -
Remember with a ci boiler, if the boiler is cold it is probably 5+ minutes before it is hot enough that it is making hot water so at least for the first shower you're mostly going off the reserve in the tank.
0
Categories
- All Categories
- 87.2K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.2K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 59 Biomass
- 427 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 118 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.7K Gas Heating
- 111 Geothermal
- 164 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.7K Oil Heating
- 73 Pipe Deterioration
- 1K Plumbing
- 6.4K Radiant Heating
- 393 Solar
- 15.5K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 56 Water Quality
- 51 Industry Classes
- 49 Job Opportunities
- 18 Recall Announcements