Burnham V-14A-T fire box replacement
I'm planning to replace the firebox on a Burnham V-14A-T. It looks like a real pain, not having a door. Any tips from experience? The obvious is don't get in a hurry!
Comments
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It's not as hard as it looks. Clear everything out and clean the area thoroughly. You insert the target wall through the slot and turn it to line up with the back of the firebox. And yes, don't hurry.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting1 -
If you don’t break the bolts/studs you’re golden.
Wear a mask.
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Once you get the bolts out, clean everything, install the chamber and all the other parts, put NeverSeez™ on the bolts before you put them back in.
Another thing I find make for easy removal of the oil burner without disconnecting the fuel lines when there is little give on the copper tubing. Remove the fuel pump bolts from the burner and leave the pump disconnected from the burner. That way the fuel pump can just hang there in space while all the rest of the burner can be placed aside to access the chamber cover.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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I like that idea about the pump!
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I figured that out many years ago when I needed to do 4 jobs in a row that required removing the oil burner from the front of the boiler or furnace and what a mess it made taking the oil lines off and trying to keep the fuel from spilling. The 2 bolts that hold the pump on take less time to remove than the fuel lines do.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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and a bonus is at that point you'd be compelled to inspect the pump coupling!
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Just want to say thanks to everyone who replied. I got to say, it was a pain, really hard to clean and apply the waterglass compared to other more accessible fire boxes. @Edtheheaterman poping the pump off is so much cleaner than disconnecting the fuel line!
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But it's working now? Did you get good combustion numbers?
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Yes it's working nice and getting good numbers I'm traveling right now I'll post them later on. I also Chucked the three wire primary, put on a good primary and added an L1 wire to the primary. So now they have pre purge and post Purge and the igniter doesn't run all the time
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Draft Breach
-0.04
Draft OF
-0.04
Tstack
444
O2
6.8
CO
44
EFF
83
ExAir
44.8
CO2
10.6
This was trace -1.5% CO2
CO is higher than I like but I just got my analyzer back from calibration and they replaced the CO sensor. So ill be going back test and adjust.
Also I don't like the draft over fire being the same as the stack. I makes me want to add baffles between the sections but I'm not going to do that until I discuss it with more experienced Techs.
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Strange about the draft. It would seem the boiler should have some resistance.
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I see it on a few boilers and it always seems to be on top vents. Not on side vents, maybe more resistance making the 90 degree turn.
Some of the newer New Yorker Boilers come with sheet metal baffle plates that drop in between the sections similar to the concept on of the cast iron baffles on triple pass boilers. I'm thinking this could be retrofitted to older pin boilers. Especially when getting stupid high draft temps.
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