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Burnham V-14A-T fire box replacement

Robert_H
Robert_H Member Posts: 223
in Oil Heating

I'm planning to replace the firebox on a Burnham V-14A-T. It looks like a real pain, not having a door. Any tips from experience? The obvious is don't get in a hurry!

Comments

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,050

    It's not as hard as it looks. Clear everything out and clean the area thoroughly. You insert the target wall through the slot and turn it to line up with the back of the firebox. And yes, don't hurry.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    Robert_H
  • HydronicMike
    HydronicMike Member Posts: 172

    If you don’t break the bolts/studs you’re golden.

    Wear a mask.

    Robert_H
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,273

    Once you get the bolts out, clean everything, install the chamber and all the other parts, put NeverSeez™ on the bolts before you put them back in.

    Another thing I find make for easy removal of the oil burner without disconnecting the fuel lines when there is little give on the copper tubing. Remove the fuel pump bolts from the burner and leave the pump disconnected from the burner. That way the fuel pump can just hang there in space while all the rest of the burner can be placed aside to access the chamber cover.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 223
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1865181#Comment_1865181

    I like that idea about the pump!

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 11,273
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1865234#Comment_1865234

    I figured that out many years ago when I needed to do 4 jobs in a row that required removing the oil burner from the front of the boiler or furnace and what a mess it made taking the oil lines off and trying to keep the fuel from spilling. The 2 bolts that hold the pump on take less time to remove than the fuel lines do.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 223
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1865234#Comment_1865234

    and a bonus is at that point you'd be compelled to inspect the pump coupling!

  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 223

    Just want to say thanks to everyone who replied. I got to say, it was a pain, really hard to clean and apply the waterglass compared to other more accessible fire boxes. @Edtheheaterman poping the pump off is so much cleaner than disconnecting the fuel line!

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 18,050
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1866960#Comment_1866960

    But it's working now? Did you get good combustion numbers?

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 223

    Yes it's working nice and getting good numbers I'm traveling right now I'll post them later on. I also Chucked the three wire primary, put on a good primary and added an L1 wire to the primary. So now they have pre purge and post Purge and the igniter doesn't run all the time

  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 223
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1866988#Comment_1866988

    Draft Breach

    -0.04

    Draft OF

    -0.04

    Tstack

    444

    O2

    6.8

    CO

    44

    EFF

    83

    ExAir

    44.8

    CO2

    10.6

    This was trace -1.5% CO2

    CO is higher than I like but I just got my analyzer back from calibration and they replaced the CO sensor. So ill be going back test and adjust.

    Also I don't like the draft over fire being the same as the stack. I makes me want to add baffles between the sections but I'm not going to do that until I discuss it with more experienced Techs.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 18,834

    Strange about the draft. It would seem the boiler should have some resistance.

    Robert_H
  • Robert_H
    Robert_H Member Posts: 223
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1867571#Comment_1867571

    I see it on a few boilers and it always seems to be on top vents. Not on side vents, maybe more resistance making the 90 degree turn.

    Some of the newer New Yorker Boilers come with sheet metal baffle plates that drop in between the sections similar to the concept on of the cast iron baffles on triple pass boilers. I'm thinking this could be retrofitted to older pin boilers. Especially when getting stupid high draft temps.

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