Radiant in floor heating, apartment won't cool.
Comments
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yes, all the loops on that zone
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
where does the wire back there go to?
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There's also a red handle on the pipe underneath.
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The blue handle won't budge. I don't know if I'm supposed to do something first, or just really hulk it.
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That blue handle will stop the flow. Those black knobs or caps are likely fully open, loose on the manifold. Clockwise will slow and or close each individual loop. There is a corresponding manifold, looks very similar somewhere near by with meters. It might have actuators on it?
Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver
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This is theThis is the whole. The red knob did turn and sounded like the water stopped flowing. The Blue knob doesn't move
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I also turned all of the black knobs clockwise.
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Here is the actuator is there anything I should do with this?
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No the valve will forcefully stop all flow through the manifold, you will want to close your window soon lol. Something with that actuator, or its associated wiring, is most likely the culprit causing your heating issues
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Thank you. It's just a shame that neither the managers nor the contractors nor the HVAC installers felt like treating it like an immediate concern. Made me hack at it myself.
I really hope that did the trick, turning just the red knob and all of the black knobs down. If I get too cold I'll get space heaters.
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I have a theory about the heating…. Those actuators need to be set when they are first installed, they are locked partially opened, they need to be power cycled, power on for 6 minutes to open, then power off to close, then you can hook it up and it will work, if your installer didn't do that it will always be partially open. Tell your manager, have the service tech come back, tell them thats the problem and call uponor tech support
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Hmm I wonder why they wouldn't know that. But if turning the red knob and the black knobs all the way shuts the system Off off, from my position I wouldn't want to open up a can of worms and deal with ignorant techs having to come in my baby's room over and over and possibly being too hot in the winter again.
It's been really really stressful having to be so hot in the winter when it's freezing outside. Opening the windows has added some relief to the living room but not made it comfortable. So it's still too warm in the living room, yet it's freezing cold in the bedrooms that have windows open. And I generally severely dislike the whole idea of this type of system. I don't like my floors being warm, and literally everything on them heating up. I've always liked carpeting, and one of the only upsides of hard floors is the fact that they are cool. It's the most wackadoodle way to heat a space in my opinion, and having to wait 24 hours for a change on the thermostat to take place is insanity. I can't believe the whole idea wasn't just scrapped the moment somebody brought it up. Our bodies fluctuate throughout the day I never want the room to be one exact temperature all the time I like having the control to make it warmer or cooler on short notice as my body requires.
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Realistically with your system it shouldn't be 24 hours, your system was just never turning off. What you have isn't quite as high mass as some radiant jobs. For instance many are embedded in concrete, once heated you have this great mass of heated concrete, takes a long time to change that. In your case with the system running wild your floors were likely WAY too hot. As a general rule, the absolute max floor temp for space heating is 85, it usually doesn't need to be over 80, and your body doesn't really perceive the floor as "hot". It's kind of funny because many people looking for floor heat are actually looking for a HOT floor and are disappointed that they can't have a hot floor without a hot room. I think if you were to have it fixed correctly you would be happier than you think with the system. I won't tell you what to do, but just keep in mind that valve being closed stops all floor heating in your loops, so if it starts to drop temp you may need to open the valve, or you could try just barely opening the valve to let a little flow through.
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With all those black caps fully closed clockwise you can open that red valve. and nothing will heat. You can then open the knobs just a bit, or one at a time just a bit. This is how the flow is balanced. I'm going to guess, because I don't know the design, but the water temp through the floor should no be more than 130? again just a guess. For good or bad, after this thread you are likely to know more about radiant heating and you system than the super.
Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver
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Haha I bet I will. But are you saying I should have turned those black knobs counterclockwise as in Lefty loosey? Because I turned them the other way and tightened them down.
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Clockwise will close them and stop the flow of water/heat. counter clockwise will open them and allow water/heat to flow through the tubing.
Oh boy I just reread my last post… sorry. clockwise is closed. I miss typed. I will edit. I also edited the temp statement. The water should be NO more than 130 or there abouts. again just a guess not knowing the system design
Miss Hall's School service mechanic, greenhouse manager, teacher, dog walker and designated driver
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