Peerless boiler keep shuting off
I have a peerless boiler system (Mi-04-sv-wpc). This boiler keeps shutting off. I changed the blocked vent shutoff, thermal cut-off switch, boiler damper, and boiler aquastat relay, but it keeps shutting off. I have to reset it from the thermal cut-off switch to turn it back on. I changed the thermostat also. I don’t know what to do next. Any ideas or options?
Comments
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When your boiler shuts off does the vent damper close?
Have you bypassed your thermostat
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The damper isn't closing . I did try bypassing the thermostat,
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You need an electrical test meter and know how to use it. You need to find what control is shutting the boiler down.
Throwing the parts cannon at it is just going to cost money and not fix anything.
Or call a professional.
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I called two companies, and they assured me that everything was fine. I paid $129.00 to each company without receiving anything in return.
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When I reset the cutoff switch, sometimes it works for the entire day, and sometimes it only works for a few hours.
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What cutoff switch are you resetting? That will point us in the right direction. Pictures will help.
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If you're talking about the blocked vent switch, maybe there's something blocking the vent. Are there working CO detectors on site BTW?
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not yet
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Hello kjohn0402,
" I changed the blocked vent shutoff, thermal cut-off switch, boiler damper, and boiler aquastat relay, but it keeps shutting off. I have to reset it from the thermal cut-off switch to turn it back on. "
Item A; blocked vent shutoff,
Item B; thermal cut-off switch,
Item C; boiler damper,
Item D; boiler aquastat relay
The flame rollout switch is not included in the list, but probably not the issue since it is a one time fuse.
Are item A and B the same in your description ?
" The damper isn't closing " Why not ?
If the Block Vent Switch keeps tripping, I would check for the Damper not functioning correctly, restricted or blocked flue, insufficient draft, how does the combustion air get into the room (or the building).
National - U.S. Gas Boiler 45+ Years Old
Steam 300 SQ. FT. - EDR 347
One Pipe System1 -
here s a few possibilities,
there certainly looks like a lot of dust of some sort all over your boiler which would lead me personally to remove and clean the burners being there as much dust on the cover as on the boiler burners .
Remove the fuel pipe from the chimney and be sure the chimney is not blocked if it is clear is there a liner ? is your chimney on the outside of your home then in most cases it needs a chimney liner or you can wait till the chimney needs to be re do your choice but a blocked vent switch implies what the name suggests ,ei block chimney . Unlined chimneys ( even w a clay tile liner)on outside of home can have issues w draft and will usually trip the block vent switch .Even though all hate hearing it ,i always call for a reputable company to do a chimney inspection and advise the home owner to take there advice being i trust the guys i use and there great and don't bs about it. The thing about stainless steel fuel liners is as much as you don't want the expense i can say that it less then 1/3 the price to have repoint and re do damaged and deteriorated chimney plus matching brick good luck and again after that masonry repair the chimney will still be in need of a liner unless in 5 or 10 year you want the same expense or re doing the chimney .Most 1/2 decent installer also know this as one of the four noble truth of boiler replacement .Chimney inspection ,lining chimney w 3 sides on the outside of the home ,theres zero though it has to be lined or certified by your contractor or by a lic chimney company plain and simple like plain yogurt
how about combustion air if your basement is finished and your home is fairly tight your issue may be not enough combustion air . Calling 2 companies that only charge what you stated unless 2 house away i would not even entertain a drive over plus thats cheap in my book . Did any of the suspected experts remove the fuel pipe and inspect the chimney if not there not real heating guys just some service kids and you need a professional . anybody can connect some piping and make it look 1/2 way decent its another story on operation and safety .
Other things to check aside from just replacing parts which get expensive is the aquastat setting and is the circulator still running when the burner is off ? as other have said you should have a co detector in your boiler area it common sense and i usually always include one w a boiler replacement if i dont see any in the home . .
If you had two companies out there and the issue is still occurring then you need to find a real professional w a clue not some body dropping by to pick up 129 dollars .Real pro charge more then that and usually that comes w 20 or 30 year experience not a you tuber figuring it out as they go that never works .
From the looks of it that is a older unit being it still has a standard aquastat and not a electronic aquastat
peace and good luck clammy
R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating1 -
The circulator still running when the burner is off.
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This is colonoscopy results.
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Today I am going to take the vent pipe out and make sure nothing is blocking it in there.
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The Blocked Vent Switch, or Spill Switch is the only safety with a manual reset. If you replaced it with OEM or equivalent, and it's still tripping, the boiler is not drafting and that's not safe to just keep resetting it.
Anything that could be causing a backdraft through the chimney? Enough combustion air?
Its possible the Spill Switch is tripping on the down cycle once the damper closes and all that heat still in the boiler has to go somewhere. If that's the case, you could try switching the damper to manual open (switch it once it's already open) and see if it happens again.
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you still haven't answer anybody's questions
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The chimney terracotta does not look in bad shape . Your issue is most likely due to your chimney being outside of the home w 3 sides exposed making it difficult for the boiler to draft properly . i see in the back ground of your picture a newer replacement window which are usually way tighter then the original window it replaced , If you do not enough combustion air or enough free air in the home due to low air leakage you will have draft issues. It could also be a failing spill switch weaken after being reset numerous times . Try relacing it w a oem rated replacement ,if the issues continue then it would be wise to have a certified chimney contractor take a look . While having the 2 contractors there to look at it did any one of them chk the outlet pressure of the gas valve ,clock the gas meter to ensure that the boiler is not over fired which would cause this issue of either a spill or roll out switch to open . As i stated has anyone pulled the burners and cleaned the debris off of them ? A dirty burner will not give a proper flame nor produce enough heat to draft properly same w not enough combustion air which can effect the draft of the boiler as well as stated before .
Some may say it s bull but i have seen first hand exactly what i am talking about . i have been to jobs where they had flame no spill switch or roll off going off put the boiler would not make steam .After a few other companies looked at it suggested replacement the home owner convinced me to take a long ride and take a look . So did upon watching and scratching my head for a minute i open the bilco door and all of a sudden the flame was stronger the boiler started producing heat . I ended up removing some weather striping on some basement windows end of story . So never ubder estimate lack of combustion air . As a side note pse e g and a few notables where there and looked at it and all suggested replacement i fixed the issue and the same pos is still there working .
What it sounds like is there are no real heating techs in your area or mostly just money grabs , maintenance contracts service agreement which from what i've seen means just about anybody showing who knows really if they do anything in some case they do zero but will suggest easy money making services that play to there pockets ,dont get me wrong everbody needs to make $ . Real pro s charge much more then a 129 bucks and most do not offer service contracts unless they are gambling men which i assure i am not . Have you tryed your local gas utility company most offer worry free even though they dont touch anything dealing w water they will replace gas valves and electronics ,spill and roll switches vent damper s and other non sense that everyone will charge you for as for how good are they i have zero comments about .
peace and good luck clammy
R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
NJ Master HVAC Lic.
Mahwah, NJ
Specializing in steam and hydronic heating1 -
I am grateful to everyone for their help; it has now started working. When I cleaned the vent pipe.
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It must've been more than a little dust. Was it partially blocked?
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