Circulator aquastat for thermal post purge?
I'm continuing to try to make incremental small improvements on our two Weil Mclain WGO-5 hot water boiler systems. The next thing I'm looking at is installing some sort of post purge to get the residual heat out of the boilers after each heating cycle. The boilers are cold start and typically run for 30 minutes or so before the Tstat is satisfied. Then they sit idle for several hours until the next call, during which some (most?) of the residual heat trickles away up the chimney.
These are 700+ pound cast iron boilers with 10+ gallons of water inside, so there is a lot of residual heat left inside after a burn, and I'd like to recover some of that with post purge. Recently I read a post from someone who was questioning how the Energy Kinetics boilers can advertise such high cycle efficiency, and Roger from Energy Kinetics explained that their high cycle efficiency was due to (1) low mass of the heat exchanger, (2) small water volume inside the HX, and (3) post purge. I can't reduce the mass of our heat exchangers or the water volume, but I can (hopefully) install a post purge.
Because the boilers are so massive, I would like to get at least 20 minutes of post purge capacity. I have seen some electronic controls that could be wired to give me up to 10 minutes of post purge, but I don't think that's going to be enough for maximum heat extraction, and I don't want to go through the trouble of buying and wiring something up only to find the max purge period is too short.
So I'm wondering if I could hard-wire the circulator directly to this Honeywell aquastat that has an external temperature sensor, which I could mount on the supply pipe coming out of the top of the boiler.
I would set the "make" temperature for, say, 100 degrees. Then when the boiler starts cold, the circulator won't start until the water temp in the supply pipe right above the boiler reaches 100 degrees. The circulator will then start, but because there's so much cold water in the system, as soon as the circulator starts, it will flood the boiler with cold water, which will lower the supply temp, causing the circulator to shut off. This process will repeat until all the water in the system has heated sufficiently to allow the circulator to run continuously.
Then after the Tstat satisfies and the boiler shuts down, the circulator will continue running until the supply water temp drops below 100 degrees. At that point, a significant amount of residual thermal energy will have been (hopefully) extracted from the boiler and sent to the radiators.
One possible objection to this setup is that, if the circulator aquastat fails, the boiler will run without water circulation until its own aquastat shuts it down on high limit. I wouldn't want this to happen routinely, but in theory that's the safety mechanism against boiler overheating.
Has anyone seen post purge done this way, and am I missing any obvious alternatives?
Comments
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Firstly, my opinion is that you are getting a bit more complicated than necessary attempting to monitor temperature. Once the boiler gets below 130F, the amount of energy that you can dissipate through the baseboards is just about negligible.
I utilized simple timer relays to delay the circulator shutdown by whatever time is reasonable. Typically 15 minutes is plenty. They are low cost and you use one for each circulator.
https://www.amazon.com/Good-BNTai-Multifunction-Functions-12V-240V/dp/B0C3B6BQ4S/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.76d54fcc-2362-404d-ab9b-b0653e2b2239%3Aamzn1.sym.76d54fcc-2362-404d-ab9b-b0653e2b2239&crid=32A1XA80X106R&cv_ct_cx=timer+relay&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eiqYiqaANOGYxlB76nJnrSmgJ0vP8PJu6uest3AVF9nHIVaMWQKC4MFXDN1ejVWzOwAKrqh2lyYDEbdj9oCGRw.KYV_oL2Gf7mfs-uour9rQK_yCsvAyvf6HBX22TLfe6E&dib_tag=se&keywords=timer+relay&pd_rd_i=B0C3B6BQ4S&pd_rd_r=22d094f4-5e03-403b-a9c7-20d973157b99&pd_rd_w=a02gm&pd_rd_wg=svBsm&pf_rd_p=76d54fcc-2362-404d-ab9b-b0653e2b2239&pf_rd_r=JD9SGCYFK1YZCPK856BC&qid=1732377853&s=industrial&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=timer+relay%2Cindustrial%2C119&sr=1-1-6024b2a3-78e4-4fed-8fed-e1613be3bcce-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&psc=1
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Your boiler is not that massive, if you are going to "throw and waste money at this", invest in a hot water storage tank like the New Horizons 490 gallon fully insulated hot water storage tank and use a side arm heat exchanger and a very small circulator to heat the water in the storage tank.
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@LRCCBJ Thanks, that would be perfect.
Re water temps, we have cast iron rads with a massive amount of radiation area and a large volume of water in the converted gravity systems (150 gallons or so). As a result, the cold start boilers start at 65 degrees and often end a 30-minute burn at 130 degrees or less. Yes, these are low temps relative to most other heating systems. Still, because there's so much cast iron and water inside the boiler, I figure there are at least 10,000 BTU's left in there after the burn. And since a typically heating cycle puts out 50,000-60,000 BTU, that's potentially 20% of the heat output left to be recovered. Will be interesting to see if we can get a measurable reduction in fuel consumption with post purge. I would think with our system, 5%-10% savings might be achievable.
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@EBEBRATT-Ed Thanks Ed, that's what I originally had in mind, but I didn't know what it was called. The Honeywell I found has a remote sensor bulb that I thought I might be able to strap to the pipe, but the sensor shape wasn't optimized to fit a pipe like the White Rogers is.
The differential on the White Rogers is given as 10 degrees F. I assume that means that, if I set it to close contacts at 110 degrees, the contacts would re-open at 100 degrees?
Edit: I think this is the Honeywell (Resideo) equivalent. The sensor isn't as countoured to the pipe shape as the White Rogers is, but the function is the same. Also, this one has a temp range down to 65, while the White Rogers lower limit is 100. Also, this Resideo has an adjustable differential, while the White Rogers is fixed at 10 degrees diff.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Resideo-L6006C1018-High-or-Low-Limit-Circulator-Strap-On-Aquastat-65-200-DegreeF-range-5-30-DegreeF-Adj-Differential?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=pmax&utm_campaign=pmax_best_sellers&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAl4a6BhBqEiwAqvrqul29x1uVcjJwNQUiQzh-uKXV8Zi6uuCeYAHjvLl7d79wFRjxRDXWsxoCB-8QAvD_BwE
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@MikeAmann Nice job, Mike. I knew someone had already invented the wheel! I see you get about a 30 degree temperature drop during a 30 minute purge. I was expecting to need about a 30 minute purge here too.
Will be interested to hear what reduction you see in oil consumption.
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@MikeAmann As luck would have it, I ordered the L6006C about 6 hours ago :-)
And thanks for pointing me to Ed's wiring diagram. I figured he would have already done it somewhere! Yes, I have an L8148A, so wiring will be simple.
I'm going to set my limit temp lower, because we usually end a burn at 130-140 degrees in the boiler. So I'm thinking of going back down to maybe 100. That way I get a delta T of 30-40 degrees out of the purge.
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You left out the really cool drawing
AND… you can set the L6006 as ow as you want it. There is no reason the leave 120° or more in that boiler. Just make sure it shuts off at some point. no reason to leave the pump moving 70° water round the entire time there is no call for heat. I like 100° with 5° diff
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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@EdTheHeaterMan Thanks Ed, you're just in time to answer another question! I understand your diagram. But I don't understand the diagram from the inside cover of my L8148A, which shows "their way" of wiring. That rectangle with the B and R contacts just to the left of the "L8148A" lettering…what is that? I don't see those contacts on my L8148A board…
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Disregard that diagram. that is how you convert an L8148 into a control for a tankless coil that maintains a minimum temperature for DHW. (not a cold start.)
Here is what is inside that control. you can see how removing the jumper between L1 and 3 will not allow the circulator to operate if the boiler water is too cold to make enough hot water for a shower. That is exactly the opposite of what you want to do
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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OK, got it. Thanks, guys!
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@hot_rod Thanks, yes, I have been alerted by you, @EdTheHeaterMan and many others that our two WGO-5's have probably been condensing flue gases for the last 30 years. I have done everything I can to get the water temps up, with higher "swing" settings on the Tstats and an overnight setback so we have at least one longer boiler run in the morning. Yet miraculously, despite the decades of cold water abuse, the heat exchangers are in remarkably good shape, and there are maybe only one or two pins missing in one of the boilers.
We've discussed this extensively in other threads, so I won't reinvent the wheel here. Suffice it to say that when the boilers need replacing, I will ensure that the installer installs a bypass, as should have been done with these but was not. Also, in a (very belated) effort to improve the current situation, I've installed triac-based "wave chopper" controllers on the Taco 007 circulators to reduce the flow rate from 19 gpm to about 12 gpm, thus slowing the flood of low-temp water through the boiler and increasing the delta T from 12 to 20 degrees. So far the controllers are working well.
Here's the thread where our low water temps were discussed a while back:
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/193617/weil-mclain-wgo-5-breaks-all-the-rules#latest
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seems like a post purge makes the cold run boiler condition worse?
Is there a vent damper on the boiler if so that residual boiler heat is still within the building
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
@hot_rod Since the post purge by definition only happens after the burner has shut off, at that point there are no combustion gases being produced to condense, so I'm not sure what the concern would be.
The only effect I can think of on the boiler is that it will cool and contract slightly faster than without the purge, but the rate of temperature change will still be a lot less than the rate of change when the burner fires up and the rapid thermal cycling begins on the "up side" of the cycle. Also as I mentioned, I've slowed the flow rate as much as I can with the new triac controllers.
There are the usual barometric dampers, but not vent dampers, so we do lose heat up the chimney after shutdown.
@EdTheHeaterMan talked about purging a cold start cast iron boiler like mine earlier in @MikeAmann 's thread on the same subject and said there should be no ill effects, and I'm just following his advice (I think!)
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@jesmed1, your idea of thermal purge is one of the features of the EK System 2000 control. Once the last zone call for heat is satisfied, the burner stops operating but the circulator for that zone (and associated system pumps and valves) continue to operate until the boiler temperature drops to a certain level. I do not know what that level is, but whatever it is, there is a significant energy savings as a result.
Edward Young Retired
After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?
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@EdTheHeaterMan Yes, I remember seeing an old thread from here where someone questioned how EK could advertise such high cycle efficiencies, and Roger patiently explained that the high efficiency of EK's was due to (1) low heat exchanger mass, (2) low water volume inside the HX, and (3) post purge.
We can't reduce our HX mass or water volume until we get new smaller boilers, but we can do the post purge. I'll be interested to see the results. We've kept good records of annual oil consumption for 10 years, so if the purge reduces our oil consumption, it should show up in our numbers. Based on some back-of-the-envelope math, I think a 5% reduction is possible.
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I ran this for several yeas on my old gas boiler before I sold my house. Worked fine but did cause some flue gas condensation. Didn't do any damage but the boiler tended to make a little more soot. Since it was gas I only looked at the HX and cleaned every 4-5 years and it was minimal build up but is was more than when shutting the boiler down with the thermostat and the boiler sitting with 170-180 degree water.
@jesmed1 since your already running a low water temp I wouldn't expect much savings. Probably enough to pay for the aquastats😊😊😊😊
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@EBEBRATT-Ed Aw Ed, there you go ruining my Sunday. 😉
Yes, we have relatively low water temps, but we still have 700+ pounds of hot cast iron and 80+ pounds of hot water sitting in the boiler after shutdown. That's around 800 pounds of thermal mass with a lot of stored energy.
Based on average temperatures, I figure there's about 10,000 useful BTU's left in that thermal mass after burner shutoff. For an average boiler run time, that's more than 10% of the useful BTU output of the boiler. So if post purge can keep half of that 10% from going up the chimney, that's a 5% energy savings.
We'll see…
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I retrofitted my CI boiler with a thermal post-purge scheme over the summer, and so far it seems to be working really well. I have a zoned system, so I used a PLC to manage everything, but it does a good job of moving the heat from the uninsulated corner of my basement where the boiler sits to the occupied living space. The main thing is that you might be dumping a non-trivial amount of heat somewhere, so it needs to be fine if it overshoots the thermostat. We're perfectly happy to have our basement or 1st floor overshoot by a degree or two, but really didn't want the bedrooms overshooting, so the thermal purge only dumps heat into the lower two floors.
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@fentonc Thanks for that report. I expect some overshoot, which is fine. But we have ecobee thermostats which do an excellent job at adapting to over/undershoot and correcting on subsequent cycles as needed. Will be interesting to see if the purge results in the ecobees reducing the run times, and by how much.
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I am not saying you won't save anything but if your running 130-140 degree water and the building is heated to 70 degrees you have 60-70 degrees to work with.
Most HW boiler will run 180 when it is cold out so you would have more BTUs to purge. 110 degree TD
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At the moment only the 1st floor heating zone is enabled, and it only purges to that floor - the current scheme is to run the circulator until the water hits 70F, I think. When it's below 45F or so, the circulator pretty much runs constantly. The temperature overshoot is very minor though:
The thermostat is set to 68 and it maintains it between 68.5 - 67.5 all night.
I did a lot of experiments and characterization with thermal purging:
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/197765/an-experiment-with-thermal-purginghttps://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/197941/simulating-my-home-heating-system-for-fun-and-profit
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does the boiler run non stop on the coldest, or design day? If not it is oversized to the radiation attached, and the home is maybe over radiated. Which is not uncommon in older systems. Or in homes that have had energy upgraded
So most of the season the boiler is cycling on and off until it meets room setpoint, correct?
Any idea how many cycles on a mild day?
So if you pull the boiler down to say 70 degrees, on the next cycle it runs in condensing mode until return is above the dewpoint. With your low boiler operating temperature, will the boiler and entire flue dry out, get above dewpoint?
Look at the distance most point in your flue piping to see if it is always “wet” if so the post purge may be making this cold operating condition worse?
With the System 2000 they purge into the dhw tank, the best place to store excess energy in water. With a mixing valve yo protect the dhw temperature
With a small temperature overdshoot in you home or some rooms , the heat loss increases s small amount , so possibly any savings is a wash? Im sure it varies from home to home. But Im more concerned with the boilers operating condition, any harm or damage being done?
Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
@hot_rod Thanks for your thoughts. Answering your questions:
- Yes, we have both oversized boilers and oversized radiation. During the polar vortex event in Boston area last Feb with 0 degree temps and high wind chill, our boilers ran only 40% duty cycle. And average water temp at rads was probably around 120 degrees.
- Yes, most of season boilers are running 20% duty cycle or less. Typical run is cold start, 30 minute burn, with SWT about 130 degrees at burner shutoff, then 4+ hours idle.
- Even without purge, the boilers always start with cold water because there is so much idle time (typically 4-5 hours) between burns. So purge is not going to make the start condition any different. Boilers always start cold now, and they will start cold after I install the purge.
- The boiler and flue do not show any signs of condensing. Even with the low RWT, the flue gas temp is 400 degrees F, and we're burning 1.2 GPH. So that is a lot of hot gas, at 400 degrees, which is NOT condensing.
- The flue pipe is standard galv sheet metal, with a short run to the adjacent brick furnace. If the flue gases were condensing in the flue pipe, we'd be getting drips from the loosely fitted joints, which we don't.
- We had the chimney inspected last year. It has a clay liner, and the chimney guy said it was in good condition, no repair or cleaning. No soot. It's 100 years old.
I think it's worth repeating that our flue gas temperature is 400 degrees, and that's measured after the boiler in the flue. So the gas temperature inside the boiler is over 400 degrees, which makes it impossible for condensing to be happening in the boilers. These are 30 year old boilers and the heat exchangers show no evidence of condensation. There are maybe 2 pins pissing in one of them. Otherwise they're fine.
Also, the relatively short run of flue pipe means the 400 degree exiting gas is not cooling fast enough to condense inside the flue pipe. And the clay-lined chimney is in good condition.
So I keep returning to the point that the 400 degree flue gas makes it virtually impossible for condensing to be happening inside the boiler where gas temps are even higher. And there is not evidence of condensing downstream in the flue pipe, or even in the chimney.
I know it seems hard for people to wrap their heads around this, but these boilers have been running with stone-cold water temps for 30 years without condensing, because the 400 degree flue gas is still 400 degree flue gas whether the RWT is 70 or 140, and the 400 degree gas prevents condensation on the hot side of the heat exchanger.
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This is a major issue
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@Robert O'Brien If I had a nickel for everyone here who told me "this is a problem," I'd be rich now. 🙂
I've been discussing these boilers (our two WGO-5's) here for several years and am grateful for all the knowledge and good advice the pros here have shared. For some history, you might want to check out one of my earlier posts that explains our setup.
https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/193617/weil-mclain-wgo-5-breaks-all-the-rules#latest
I respect and appreciate all the good advice I've been given freely. However, one ongoing mystery is why all the pros keep telling me "your boilers must be condensing, and this is a big problem" when there is no evidence that's actually happening.
These boilers have been running cold start with low water temps for 30 years, long before I even moved in 15 years ago. The boilers run 1000+ cycles per season, averaging 30 minutes per run, with starting water temp 65 and ending at 130. So that's 30,000+ cycles that each boiler has run in its lifetime.
Every year we have the heat exchangers cleaned, and every year I inspect them myself alongside the tech. And every year, they're fine. No evidence of condensing, either there or in the flue. After 30 years, there are only maybe 2 pins missing in one of the boilers. They could easily run another 10 years, IMO.
Someday I'm going to invite all the pros here for pizza at my house, so we can all tear these "mystery" WGO-5's apart and find that sneaky condensation in the 30-year-old boilers that have run 30,000+ cycles and show no signs of problems.
I'm also thinking maybe I should invite a Weil-Mclain rep out to admire their miracle boilers, since they seem to be doing fine for 30 years in conditions that everyone says should have destroyed them. 🙂
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