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Stainless pump for DHW

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Comments

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    ok was wondering, thanks

  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,324

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

    Larry Weingarten
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,515

    these tankless water heater cleaning kits come with a citrus acid. I think this brand had a packet of powder to mix with the water. You can buy the acid for these seperatly.

    I use it to descale thermostatic mix valves.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,515

    maybe. Depends if it stained into the pores of the plastic, I suppose.

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    I'm doing more reading about using Oxalic acid to clean filters and housings.

    Seems like it's ok to use for that as long as you do it safely, gloves and glasses, people say it's really not bad.


    And it's in Broccoli so how bad can it be…. lol


    Im still researching it, also would like to know if it's safe for septic.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    maybe. Depends if it stained into the pores of the plastic, I suppose.


    right…

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61
    edited November 23

    Well it seems Oxalic acid is used by a lot of people to clean water filters.

    However Citric acid also removes rust from what I read and doesn't have the safety risk and comes as food grade.

    That sounds like a winner, so I'm going to give it a try…

    Thanks for the input guys!

    Larry Weingarten
  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    Hi guys, starting to move forward again, putting together a parts list, I'm not finding the pressure relief valve I thought I was looking for.

    This is for the heating loop side. Can anyone recommend a valve. I think I will have the loop pressurized at 15psi unless I learn otherwise.


    thank you !

  • Kaos
    Kaos Member Posts: 258

    User standard 30PSI boiler relief valve. Sometimes stock item at a local box store if you have a lot of hot water heating near you.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    thanks , I was thinking that. At first I had it in my mind to find something like my well pressure tank has.
    Then I realized that's not going to work.
    Ok , just wanted confirmation on that.
    I appreciate everyone's help here. I'll be back with more questions as I go along.
    Still need to figure out what water to fill the system with. It was suggested I find out how hard my water is. I got a test kit but haven't used it yet, but will soon.

    Thank you sir..

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    Larry, what about using Reverse osmosis water, I make that all day long.. or mixing it with raw well water, I still have to check it's hardness btw

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,515

    RO , DI deionized, DM demineralized, and distilled all give you the same result , almost pure H2O

    Its “hungary” water and will immediately try to buffer back to neutral ph. It does this by pulling from metallic components in the piping. Check that low ph water a few days after it was put in a system to see the ph change

    Better yet add a hydronic conditioner to the purified water to buffer it and add good inhibitors

    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
    Larry Weingarten
  • ChrisJ
    ChrisJ Member Posts: 16,324

    Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    Ok, I understand that, people are telling me otherwise, I believe you as that makes sense.

    I'll get back to this when I check my raw well water. Maybe I can filter it well to get the sediment out and it will work.

    But as usual when I get help I get many different opinions and that gets confusing.


    I do appreciate everyone helping me as I am learning.


    so you guys know…

    The supply side water is well water passed through three 1 micron string wound filters.

    Then through a large carbon block filter, then the water softener and then another string wound filter and into the water heater.

    My water heater is doing double duty for now so I'm stuck with that.

    If I have to replace the heat exchanger every so often so be it.

    As for the heat loop side I will do the best I can for that part of the system.

    This is not a critical setup, its basement heat where I have not had heat for 12 years since I put the basement in.

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    lol……

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    Is a hardness test kit the same as PH ?

  • Larry Weingarten
    Larry Weingarten Member Posts: 3,614

    "Is a hardness test kit the same as PH ?" Hi @hunter29 , These are completely different things. Hardness is solids dissolved in the water that filtration will not remove. Imagine dissolved sugar or salt in water. A normal filter won't catch it as it isn't particulate matter… PH is a measure of how acidic or basic the water is. 🤓

    Yours, Larry

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    Thanks Larry, thats what I thought.


    I found an old test report from 30 years ago. It listed my water at 20 GPG. But that came from a salesman.. LOL

    Tomorrow I'll do a test and see if that is still the case..

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    How about Lake Huron water… lol

    That's Detroit city water..

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    Hi all, making progress again, just want opinions on this.

    I have the hot water loop , water heater to heat exchanger, hot from the water heater is on the bottom run, the return back to the water heater is above that.

    Is there any reason not to put the pump on the return line?

    I figure cooler water on the pump would be beneficial..

    Thanks

  • hunter29
    hunter29 Member Posts: 61

    Hi all, making progress again, just want opinions on this.

    I have the hot water loop , water heater to heat exchanger, hot from the water heater is on the bottom run, the return back to the water heater is above that.

    Is there any reason not to put the pump on the return line?

    I figure cooler water on the pump would be beneficial..

    Thanks