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troubleshoot a non-firing boiler

steamnoob
steamnoob Member Posts: 45
in Oil Heating

Just went to fire the old girl up this evening. Both zone pumps are spinning, contactors in the aquastat are clicking, but nothing from the oil pump or transformer.

Is the transformer the next thing to troubleshoot? I'm guessing I could test continuity across the coils?

20241010_214246.jpg
20241010_214250.jpg

Comments

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,495

    Check 120 volts going to the burner usually B1 & B2. Check if the burner motor has a manual reset overload button on the motor some do some don't

  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45

    I pressed the reset on the motor, hear a bit of a buzz, they it pops out again. Bad burner motor?

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,495

    Bad motor or the fuel pump is jammed up. Kill the power swing the transformer open and try to spin the blower wheel. It should spin with very slight resistance. If no spin pull the motor off and see what does not spin the motor or the oil pump.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,401
    edited October 11

    I need a clarification of the "Motor" reset you are referring to

    Screenshot 2024-10-11 at 2.37.26 PM.png

    The one on the control is the flame protecto-realy reset and will trip if there is no flame in the chamber after the safety timing is exhausted. usually 15 seconds to 45 seconds depending on the model number of the control.

    The button on the Motor is an over current protection that will trip if the motor is drawing too many amps for an extended period of time.

    Assuming you mean the control reset (not on the actual motor) and you press it and you hear buzzing for some time but the burner motor does not spin the fan and pump, then the Ignition transformer is working. That is the buzzing. See if the motor is stuck, open the ignition transformer and give the fan blades a push. Than close it back up and try again. (you can also look for a reset on the motor like the one in the right photo. Sometimes it is on the flat end of the motor.)

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,495

    @EdTheHeaterMan

    he stated he pressed the reset on the motor which is why I asked him to look for one.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,401
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1813868#Comment_1813868

    I saw that,

    Picture = 1000 words.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,338

    Agree with above. Bad OB motor or seized fuel pump. If it is in fact the transformer you hear buzzing, and not the aquastat relay, which can also buzz. Very 120 volts at B1,B2 when you reset. Then kick the motor. Not like it owes you money. Just a love tap.

    If that R8182D ever goes bad, it would be better to install a modern aquastat and seperate primary relay. Replacements for those are big bucks anyway.

  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45
    edited October 11

    The small red one on the blower motor below is what I pressed this time. whirrs for a bit, then pop out again.

    I'll take the motor off and do some diag tomorrow.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,401

    Fuel pump is clogged, or the pump had water in it over the summer and the gears are seised. That is the most common reason for the motor overload to pop out. second most common is the fan is overloaded with dust and not moving the same amount of air as a clean fan would move. Both may cause the amperage to run higher than normal. The dirty fan would also cause soot to form in the combustion side of the heat exchanger. The third most common reason is that the motor is going bad. So cleaning the pump strainer, replacing the pump, cleaning the burner fan, or replacing the motor will solve that problem. Which one depends on what you find when you take stuff apart.

    OR 2. you can just replace the motor fan and pump if you work for a company that is more interested in profits.

    OR 3. you can replace the boiler, all three will get you heat, you just need to decide what kind of mechanic you want to be.

    And after you do #2 and #3 and you still have the same problem, you might want to check to see if there is oil in the tank or if the fuel line is clogged. LOL 🤔🤔 🤪🤪🤪.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45

    Hoping its something I can cobble together without a major overhaul. I want to swap it to natural gas at some point, but have a full tank of oil at the moment I'd like to burn through.

    I quickly stuck my finger in and the fan seems to spin freely. So I guess I'll look up how to clean a pump strainer in the morning.

  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 16,495

    If the fan spins freely you probably have a bad motor.

    HVACNUTjringel
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    edited October 12
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1813871#Comment_1813871

    Beckett makes a control kit for just this situation:

    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/176551/nice-job-beckett

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    HVACNUT
  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45

    By "freely", I meant the blower fan wasn't binding. Has resistance.

    I verified 120v from the left blue wire to the B terminal, but nothing from the right one. Resetting the motor button seems to have varying results, sometimes hear a click, sometimes just moves freely. Turned off power seems to reset everything.

    Frank, left a vm for you on Thursday. Know you are prob busy. I'm down in Anneslie.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 9,401

    @steamnoob said:

    Turned off power seems to reset everything.

    This is actually not supposed to happen. If you have a manual reset button on a motor or in a primary control, then cycling the power switch will not reset those manual reset buttons. Only pressing the button will reset it.

    Likewise, if the reset button is not tripped, then pushing the reset button will not reset anything. It may cycle the burner control off for the time you are pressing the button, but if it was not tripped in the first place, then pushing it does nothing.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387

    Going to look at this on Monday.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    mattmia2
  • steamnoob
    steamnoob Member Posts: 45

    Motor oiled, 1 hour tuition payment remitted, boiler firing. Thanks Frank.

    SuperTech
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,387
    edited October 15

    Glad to help!

    For the record, this is a Burnham V-13A-T with an OEM Carlin 100CRD burner. The tankless coil is no longer in service. We'll be looking at a gas conversion in the spring.

    Also, the oil company should have oiled that motor.

    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
    mattmia2

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