Upgrading thermostats and cables with c-wires, L8148J two zones c-wire question :)
Hi all! really thankful for this site as i have learned alot here over past few days!
Ok so I have a L8148J Honeywell aquastat (See images)
which was connected by previous owner in a pretty convoluted way (at least seems to me it was ) to 2 separate old Honeywell thermostats (one for 1st level and one for 2nd level of the house).
I am now upgrading my old thermostats to the ST55 Sensi Smart which requires c-wire.
Because of that I removed the old cables and ran 2 new cables (5 wires including a blue c-wire) from the old thermostat locations (1+2 floors) all the way to the utility room where I have my Aquastat L8148J. The issue is that down in the utility room the whole operations seems a mess :) see image with annotations:
im trying to figure out 2 things:
- where on the L8148J so i actually have a c-wire port
- since there seems to be multiple splits of the white and red cables where do i connect the 2 new cables from the ST55 (ie exactly the same as before?)
thx alot in advance, really appriciate it!
best
Ethan
Comments
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Wire it this way. You have Taco 570 type zone valves. Don't expect to wire a third wire to the Honeywell. You need an aux transformer. This is for a Nest but should work for you. The TT Boiler connect is to the boiler aquastat TV & T connections.
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Ethan is my favorite name for a boy.
The 2 & 3 connections on the Taco ZV are just a switch that connects to the TV & T connections on the Honeywell aquastat and energizes the relay on the aquastat which turns on the pump and the gas valve's safety circuit, opening the gas valve. It's a single throw—double pole relay. You generally don't have enough power to run everything off the aquastat transformer which is why you need an aux transformer to run Taco 570 ZVs and charging thermostats. You do seem to have an aux transformer. Disconnect all the wires and rewire. Follow the wiring diagram. The diagram shows where the circuit connections go but you can make these connections in different ways. For instance, the two C wires from the thermostats can connect together then a wire can go to the #2 screw on the ZVs.
You need the relays tho. Double check your work before powering up.
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thx @HomerJSmith!
i must say im not an expert (just a DIYer) so ill try to follow along :)
You need the relays tho
you mean i need to buy 2 relays?
thx alot
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Yes, two relays. See my link to SupplyHouse.com
Just connect one wire at a time and make sure it is correctly wired.
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thx again @HomerJSmith !
finally have time to go back to the project, since shipping at supplyhouse make things a bit pricy is this an equal relay:
thx so much again!
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This diagram is not quite complete.
The problem is that the Taco zone valves are sending 24V out to the TT boiler terminals. The boiler control (L8148J on this one) puts 24V on one side of TT, as it is expecting a switch (thermostat) there, without any voltage input. If you get the red and white wires crossed on TT, you'll blow the zone valve transformer as well as the one inside the L8148J. Ask me how I know that……………
To sidestep this, you'll need a third isolation relay. Wire the coil terminals to the red and white going to TT on the diagram, and the normally open contacts to TT. This isolates the two transformers from each other.
Any time we encounter these 3-wire zone valves, we upgrade the job this way. It prevents future problems.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Yes, you need a relay for each thermostat. Just use the normally/open terminals and forget the normally/closed terminals.
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That will work. Terminals 1 and 3 are the coil. Terminals 2 and 4 are the normally open ones.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
thx both @Steamhead and @HomerJSmith !
really appreciate your help here! got to say i will need to dive deeper into this as i must admit im a bit confused at this stage :D
can i bother your both to check if the amazon relay i posted is compatible as a relay in this setup?
i will perhaps create a diagram in a few days and post it here before it try to actually do anything :D
thx again so much
Ethan
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Yes, again. Just use the normally open terminals.
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Why go through this torture when you can purchase a Caleffi or Taco control that gives you your "C" wire and has a landing spot for every other wire you have AND has diagnostic lights to help you when there are problems?
Not shown is a pair of wires from "XX" on the control to "T" and "TV" on the Honeywell aquastat as your end switch.
Controllers are available in 3,4,5 and 6-zone configurations.8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab1 -
@Alan, comparably it cost big Buckos. No, for those of you in Rio Linda, a Bucko isn't a wild animal in Australia.
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thx both! @Alan (California Radiant) Forbes , since i am not a professional i would be wiling (within reason :)) to pay some more for a much more simplified approach (will probably costs way less then a technician right).
Can you perhps link to the Caleffi or Taco controler? googling didnt really point me in the right direction :)
also (if possible) can you explain in detail what connects where with such a controlor?
i really really appreciate all you guys time, its such a great community here!
Ethan
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https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-ZVR103-3-Zone-Valve-Control-w-Priority
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-ZVC404-4-4-Zone-Valve-Control-Module-with-Priority
There are links to the installation instructions. Read them and let us know if you have any questions.
8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour
Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab0 -
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Hi guys and @Alan (California Radiant) Forbes !
So kids are back to school and im finally back to the project (have to do it before the winter:))
i bought the Taco ZVC control the you recommended (ZVC404-4) and now trying to get back to things and try to figure out how to actually wire this
ive drafted a diagram to myself but i am at a bit of a loss here as not everything is clear to me
you mentioned there are a "wires from "XX" on the control to "T" and "TV" on the Honeywell aquastat as your end switch" which i drew up as gold and blue lines in the diagram above. but currently there "TV" and "T" sockets are connected to the first Taco 671-2 zone valve :
so i guess im still confused on how to connect the ZVC404 to the main aquastat and the actual taco zone valves :)
any help would be super appreciated :)
thx so much
Z
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X-X on the ZVC goes to TV-T on the aquastat relay.
The zone valve terminals 1-2-3 go to 1-2-3 on the ZVC for the zone they serve.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
amazing @Steamhead ! really appreciate it. i have updated the diagram, did i plot it correctly?
to confirm ,currently the taco zone valves are connected to each other in the new setup they are just connected to the ZVC right?
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Yes. Run a 3-wire cable from each zone valve to the proper 1-2-3 terminals on the ZVC. Do not connect the zone valves together.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
thx so much again, last question (i hope :))
Run a 3-wire cable from each zone valve to the proper 1-2-3 terminals on the ZVC
so i need a white,red,green cable, but how does one know on the zone valve itself where it goes? (or is there no order needed)?
thx so much to eveybody in the wonderful community!
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Wire 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3. Doesn't matter which color goes with which number as long as they are the same on both ends.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
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