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direct vent oil burner dumps exhaust fumes into my house

rogun
rogun Member Posts: 2
in THE MAIN WALL

Hello,

My direct vent oil burner dumps exhaust fumes into my house when I have my window closest to the vent open. I want to change this by changing the direct venting to a metal chimney pipe that extends above the roof. I've installed metalbestos chimney for my woodstoves in multiple buildings and would think that I could do something similar for the furnace… isolated to it's own, isolated chimney pipe.

I'm wondering if the heat would just rise in the pipe as is or would I need to change something at the furnace that would force the air up the pipe? The pipe would be about 25 - 30 feet long total.

The Furnace is a Buderus Logano G115 with a Carlin EZ-1HP oil burner, burner motor model is 98022.

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Comments

  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,193
    edited August 2024

    You would need to run up a 5" stainless chimney , running up the outside wall ? I recommend double wall . Add a tee before the vatical rise to create a clean out .

    I assuming the burner is ducted fresh air , you can leave that alone …

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • rogun
    rogun Member Posts: 2

    The burner is ducted fresh air, thank you for the advice @Big Ed_4.

  • Robert O'Brien
    Robert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,569

    direct vent oil burner dumps exhaust fumes into my house

    rogun

    Sure, you need Type L vent

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  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 3,193

    The termination of the chimney needs to meet the coded distance from the peak of the roof …..

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • HVACNUT
    HVACNUT Member Posts: 6,744

    Assuming this boiler has a BF Riello? Would it be easier to move the vent location (within Buderus specs) to another area?

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,397
    edited August 2024

    Type L vent is acceptable and probably less expensive if you find someone that has this stuff in stock. I have always found it difficult to purchase, since no one in my area has that produce in stock. Class A vent that you may use for wood stoves is also acceptable and I have found that product easier to obtain. Some class A venting is triple wall with a stainless steel inner pipe. Another brand has a double wall product with a powder that is non-combustable that takes up the space between the outer and inner pipe. As long as it is rater for wood stove use, than it is good for oil burners.

    So depending on availability you can use the stuff you are familiar with for wood stove chimneys or L-vent.

    As long as the horizontal connector from the boiler vent opening to the base of the vertical chimney is within specifications, and your roof termination is to specifications, then you should not need any other product or item to get the draft to start.

    If however, you have a 30 foot horizontal run of connector pipe, and only a 10 ft high chimney, then you have a problem. That would require a venting system that is rated for positive pressure operation, and L vent or Class A manufactured chimney is not the correct product, because they are for Category I venting where the internal vent pressure is ALWAYS operating at a lower than ambient pressure (In other words: the air leaks into the pipe, not leaks out of the pipe)

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

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