Oil Boiler ROI
Comments
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Yeah, I'm extremely skeptical when anyone tells me their system is highly efficient. Or when they say their house is well-insulated. If you're not measuring, you're just guessing.
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@LRCCBJ, thank you, we appreciate you compliment about being extraordinary! Regarding your comment about limited thermal purge to an indirect tank, I would agree with you if System 2000 was a high mass boiler with an indirect tank with an internal coil. But it's a low mass boiler with a hot water tank heated by an external plate heat exchanger which is a game changer.
System 2000 is designed as a system, with optimized heat and hot water efficiency. The plate heat exchanger allows the tank to be heated from the top down, leaving a reservoir of cold water at the bottom when the tank thermostat is satisfied. By design, the "cold" tank reservoir almost perfectly balances with the amount of heat left in the boiler, and counterflow allows thermal purge to recover that heat so the boiler finishes cold and the tank finishes hot. You can see this description and illustration on the third page of this brochure.
@JayMcCay posted a link to the Department of Energy Lab study so the details you questioned are available. That study used ASHRAE Standard 118 for rating residential water heaters. From the study: "Termed the Energy Factor, the test method involves a direct input/output measure with the use of a standard domestic hot water draw pattern of 64.3 gallons in 6 draws over 6 hours, followed by 18 hours of idle period."
We like to be quite careful with comparisons.
Best,
Roger
President
Energy Kinetics, Inc.1 -
Just needs a new firebox liner kit. Lynn Products #1064. Installation is NOT a DIY job.
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting2 -
Jay said: A heat pump water heater is even more challenging to run as it cools your home in the winter, with a new heating system, you will not have waste heat in your boiler room.
So is the basement part of the home's conditioned space or not? Pick one. You can't have it both ways.
If the basement is part of the conditioned space, then there is little heat wasted from an old boiler. Jacket losses and cycle losses go into conditioned space.
If the basement is not part of the conditioned space, then the HPWH is not stealing heat from the home.
For DHW, the first thing any homeowner should identify is what are their DHW needs. If small, who cares about efficiency and cost of fuel. Get an electric resistance water heater. Household of two doing laundry in cold water vs Household of 12 washing cloth diapers in hot water, and teenagers taking 3 showers a day.
Efficiency only matters if you are using large quantities of domestic hot water, and heating a large poorly insulated, leaky home. Otherwise, the payback period is never. Too many working boilers are replaced because "it might die in the middle of winter and a new one will be more efficient". OK, it will be a little more efficient, but exactly how many dollars will that really save?
40 years ago putting both your DHW and space heating needs in one basket made sense. Back then, we had enough skilled labor and parts were always available. Today we have a lack of skilled labor and parts supply chain problems. Having both a HP and Boiler for space heating gives redundancy. HPs are cheaper to run than OIl fired boilers in the shoulder seasons. If my boiler dies, I can still take a hot shower. If my water heater dies, I will still be warm while I get it replaced.
H2OSki asked what we would do in our homes. I shared what I would do. I like redundancy. I like simple. I have high expectations for long service and low failure rates. I have a 75 year old Weil Mclain and a 24 year old Chevy Suburban that are less failure prone than the efficiency products we are stuck with today. What's right for me may not be right for others. Some want new with a warranty. Nothing wrong with that. EK makes a good boiler. Their customer and dealer support is THE BEST.
My recommendation for H2OSki is to get someone in there to honestly asses the Burnham. Someone who is willing to work and get dirty. Too many techs condemn good boilers so they can get a commission on the sale of a new boiler. If it isn't leaking water, run it! Keep it maintained. Collapsing liners can be replaced. You have the whole summer to figure out what is best for you.
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@H2OSKI , with the boilers you listed:
Viessmann
Biasi
Energy Kinetics
Burnham EMP
Buderus
Pure Pro
the only caveat I can come up with is that the PurePro line features several different models. The one you want is the Trio, which is a three-pass unit like the other cast-iron models. Three-pass types are much easier to maintain than pin-type boilers, so there is a better chance they will be properly maintained. And of course, they must be sized and installed correctly. This is where a good contractor comes in.
Having said that, I will say that one of our customers has an Energy Kinetics Ascent Combi boiler, and he tells us he gets plenty of heat and has never been able to run it out of hot water despite that it doesn't use an indirect tank. So that's worth a look too.
Now if only E.K. would come up with a steam boiler……… @Roger ?
All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting2 -
Thank you for your feedback and warm comments, @WMno57 and @Steamhead . I appreciate the vote of confidence, although a steam boiler is not in our R&D portfolio right now - I don't want to start any rumors, especially in such a remarkable community of steam experts!
Best,
Roger
President
Energy Kinetics, Inc.0 -
My 75 year old Weil McLain is three pass and steel push nipples. Today's Weils are pin type and section gaskets.
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That is a well designed system. My compliments. Presumably you stop the purge at a specific boiler temperature as you cannot exchange anything more. What temperature would that be?
Also, is there any adjustment available by the user that allows a larger differential on the tank? The typical 7 degree differential is beyond wasteful, IMHO, and the boiler starts way too frequently. Even the Carlin 90000B2S on the Bock does not permit any adjustment to the differential. It's frustrating.
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I am not bad mouthing Bock or oil fired HWH. They have their place.but:
xtra maintenance and an extra burner to take care of
they are expensive to purchase and install
two appliances in the chimney versus one can be an issue
connecting a boiler and a WH to one oil line can be an issue
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Thank you, @LRCCBJ System 2000 was a great design to start with and we’ve had 45 years to improve it even further. The boiler cools off down toward room temperature; 85F for condensing systems and a few degrees higher on non-condensing systems. Counterflow in the plate heat exchanger allows this to happen.
The tank is charged with 140F water based on the domestic flow rate through the plate heat exchanger, and that fills the tank from the top down. That makes it almost like an instantaneous water heater because the hot water is at the top of the tank, right near where it flows out to the fixtures (the rest of the tank can be cold). It only needs to heat for a few minutes before you have continuous hot water flow. The aquastat itself is more like an on/off switch set for 120F that triggers when enough cold makeup water fills the bottom of the tank, so that 7F differential does not influence cycling.
Without a hot water draw, the super insulated tank can sit idle for days without the need to be replenished. The boiler is also super well insulated, and the combination of thermal purge, low mass, and heavy insulation almost eliminates idle loss. This operating design in both hot water and heating cycles significantly contributed to System 2000 outperforming all condensing boilers in the Department of Energy study.
Roger
President
Energy Kinetics, Inc.2 -
Well done. But, I disagree with the 7F differential. It must influence cycling by definition. Since all the cold water accumulates at the bottom of the tank, you can cut the cycling in half with a 15F differential. The customer would never know the difference in most cases.
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All true.
I "inherited" this setup and am quite pleased with it. I did have some upgrades to do for it, including the installation of the Carlin control and the timer. The tank, installed in 2004, certainly is getting to the end of its useful life. I'll find a replacement 8-10 year Bock that someone is dumping because they converted to gas.
I believe I mentioned to you that this oil setup is 1 1/2 pipe. A bit strange but works effectively. Can manage SOME air…………more than one pipe………….but still has its limits. I found its limit when I had the system open and then closed it to start the burner. A quick bleed and it was fine.
Yes, the cost of a new install by a contractor would absolutely make no sense. Just get the System 2000 and be done with it. It is identical (or possibly superior) to the system efficiency of the Bock considering the greatly increased combustion efficiency of the System 2000.
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If I read this correctly, with a 7F differential, presumably the boiler will start at 113F. The difference between the top of the tank and the bottom of the tank would not be considered the "differential" under conventional terminology for a control. I agree that it is the differential between the top of the tank and the bottom of the tank.
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The tank heats from the top down, so when the aquastat is satisfied, the bottom of the tank at the aquastat is 140°F. So 27F is the differential. Please also feel free to PM me if it’s unclear or you would like more information.
President
Energy Kinetics, Inc.0 -
I was under the assumption that the aquastat is at the top of the tank (to limit the output to 140F). If the aquastat is at the bottom of that tank, the top of the tank would be considerably hotter than 140F.
If the differential is 27F, the aquastat would close when the bottom of the tank reaches 113F.
This would work extremely well.
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@LRCCBJ , I feel like our sidebar is hijacking this thread. Please PM me if you have further questions.
The plate heat exchanger allows us to heat the tank from the top down at about 140°F, the top of the tank is not considerably hotter. There is no hydronic coil in the tank, which could cause stacking as you suggest.
RogerPresident
Energy Kinetics, Inc.2 -
What brand would I put in my house?
To me, it would depend upon the installer I choose. I want to be comfortable with him, his choices and his training. There are many different manufacturers and none of them suck. However we all hear "don't use XX, nothing but problems. Use YY, the help me out of a lot of problems XX didn't"
Are these manufacturer issues or application issues?
Stand by your installer and the brands he uses. He or she will also use a brand that has parts available locally and can get the system up and running again if needed quickly.
Dave Holdorf
Technical Training Manager - East
Taco Comfort Solutions
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We had a fresh air intake installed.
That reduced the amount of cold air being sucked into the house and warm air being sucked into the boiler and up the chimney.
It also reduced the noise of the boiler.
Very happy with that upgrade.
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