Tees with drains versus elbows on steam
This was a boiler I could not get to at the time 7 or 8 years ago. The HO dug my # up and and wanted me to "inspect" the job he got because he had some issues and the original installer came back once, was not very nice and told him not to "bother him no
more!"
- Boiler would not fire.
- Pigtail 100% blocked.
- LWCO probe coated with splunck.
- Last two elbows on boiler return 90% clogged.
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It's Funny because we were just talking about neatness & "nitpicking," on the Wall the other day. When I wiped all the extra Teflon paste, Flux, et cetera clean when I was done, the HO looked at the header and piping the original installer did and said, " why couldn't this slob do that? It took you 2 minutes!" Some HO's DO see the difference. That is my kind of client. Mad Dog
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Sure thing. I guess it's time for the improvements. Add some blowdown and a good long skim etc.
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The Original installer threw in the skim valve to shut him up; only after the HO was complaining about oil smells & banging. He said he was very short with him, dumped the boiler once and was done in 30 minutes. When the wise HO, asked (He bought Dan's Books) him if the "skim" should take a lot longer, he basically said, "were done here!, you do it!." Ha ha...Nice...Mad Dog
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Nice. Just to nitpick. i would have used full port ball valves, instead of boiler drain. Easier to clear, when they clog up. And they drain faster.
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Nah...Not nitpicking. Just a financial choice. What I try to do on steam is use a full tee with bushing. Steam boilers are easy enough to drop for a quick swap or cleaning. On hot water boilers, yes, always full port ball valves on tapping. I don't to see plugs on ANY Steam or HW boiler tapping. Try getting those plugs out later...good luck. If $ is tight I'll use a black nipple & cap..
I actually prefer Gate Valves on my Hartford Loop, but getting harder & harder to get. Steam condensate roasts the Teflon rings in Ball valves, but had no choice. Mad Dog
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I hear ya. Just not so much fun, doing that swap, when steam boiler is hot. And if you are hooking up a water transfer pump, which I always do, for cold boiler flushing, you will see a noticeable difference
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And I agree about the plugs. Boiler plugs should be illegal.
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That's why I use full size tees. I hate nothing more than going to pull a Hot Water zone or indirect off a steam boiler and they put in a 1/2" Boiler Drain...Mad Dog
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When I see gunk like that it usually means they are adding a lot of MU water
Problem with gate valves is you have to pay big bucks to get one that is any good.
We used to use a lot of apollo carbon steel ball valve they were rated for 250# steam and not that expensive. Most suppliers don't stock them but they were available pretty quickly
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Not this one. The VXT Gallons fed was low. No flushing for 8 yrs Mad Dog
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What does the header look like?
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Not terrible....used one riser (only a 4 section), bushed it down from 3" but atleast kept it in 2 1/2" to the equalizer. Mad Dog
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@Mad Dog_2 I may have asked already but my memory stinks, what is your reason for preferring gate valves below the water line?
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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I've seen the Teflon Ring inside the Ball valves melt & get very distorted on Steam Condensate and after 7 or 8 years won't hold. Mad Dog
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Yeah! I have too. It separates from the wall of the valve and can be seen in the valve when it is replaced.
Sometimes the thing is still in one piece but is now halfway in the path of flow.
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That's actually why I switched to normal boiler drains on my system.
I can't fix the seals in a ball valve but I can change a washer real easy and I had several ball valves fail.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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