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Honeywell zone valve stuck

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bignozzle
bignozzle Member Posts: 23
in THE MAIN WALL
installed 3 zone valves Honeywell v8043 e about 2 months ago  to add zones to existing system. Worked fine, but today no heat in zone 1. the lever on the valve was off and I gave it a little nudge and it opened right up. Anyone have this problem before?

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  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,131
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    check all the wire connections, make sure they are tight and all the wire strands are accounted for. If it is the type with leads, there may be wire nuts under the cover that you should check also.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,637
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    What is the total load on the transformer and the transformer's rating?
  • bignozzle
    bignozzle Member Posts: 23
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    Each valve is .32 amps so 3 is about 1 amp the transformer is 40 volt amps
  • bignozzle
    bignozzle Member Posts: 23
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    there are 2 wire nuts under the cover the yellow and orange wires they seem pretty secure. When I installed them I used new wire and soldered all wire nut connections 
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,834
    edited January 2021
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    Are the valves installed in the correct direction? The arrow is on the outside so the water can't see it and may go the wrong way.

    Respectfully submitted,
    Mr.Ed
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • bignozzle
    bignozzle Member Posts: 23
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    Double checked it and it is going the right way
  • HomerJSmith
    HomerJSmith Member Posts: 2,441
    edited January 2021
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    A Honeywell ZV is about 7.6 VA. The maximum number of ZV's on a boiler 40VA transformer is usually 3. If it gives you trouble, it has a one year warranty.

    You can remove the screw that holds the motor on the power head and remove it and check the lever and the motor. It sounds like the lever is binding.

    I had a bunch of Honeywell ZV's go bad. years ago. What I found out was the top bearing on the motor dropped down, allowing the rotor to pole out.
  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 7,834
    edited January 2021
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    bignozzle said:

    Double checked it and it is going the right way

    That is good, Then the valve actuator got stuck. If you place the actuator in Manual, loosen the 2 mounting screws, jiggle it a little, then tighten the screws evenly. Let it operate for a time to see if the problem reoccurs. If it does, then return the actuator for warranty replacement. If there is no warranty return because you purchased a complete valve, then purchase a complete valve and swap actuators. After a time if the problem is solved, return the unused valve with the defective actuator head. Tell the supplier there is a defective actuator and you need a refund.

    If the problem is not resolved then replace the valve portion, Follow good soldering practices so as not to overheat the valve components. Overheating the small (non-metal) ball that closes against the valve body will damage the valve. Use your judgment as to the warranty or if you overheated the valve when returning the defective part.

    Respectfully Submitted,
    Mr.Ed

    PS Honeywell literature states that up to 4 Zone Valves can work with one 40 VA transformer. Only 3 Taco Zone Valves 571 on a 40 VA transformer
    Edward F Young. Retired HVAC ContractorSpecialized in Residential Oil Burner and Hydronics
  • bignozzle
    bignozzle Member Posts: 23
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    I called Honeywell he checked that my transformer could handle the number of zone valves then told me to take the motor off and see if the valve seems to be binding. Think I’ll try the advice of loosening the screws to let it adjust 1st. I wired the valve open for now, which is okay because a pellet stove is heating the other 2 zones this time of year. I’ll report back next week. Thanks everyone for all the input.
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 9,637
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    For what its worth, i like the taco zone sentry valves a lot better than honeywell.

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