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Main Vent Valve

RichieB
RichieB Member Posts: 4
in Strictly Steam
I've been balancing the radiatior vents on my one pipe steam system and i want to replace the Main vent valve with a Gorton #2, however i have a suspicion the piping (which you can see in the picture, is on the condensate return, is too short. It is an older Dole Model_90 now). I've included a picture of the Vent as well as the piping on the boiler. Could someone Let me know if i should increase the height of the valve pipe before i invest in a new valve. Also, i'm not sure if the pictures uploaded or how i do that in a post (drag and drop doesn't seem to be working)

Comments

  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,525
    edited December 2016
    Current location is no good, it's below the waterline. See pic. Also you'll want a Big Mouth (or two) rather than a Gorton. More will be in stock shortly.



    Or it's counterflow, in which case we want the vent at the very end of the steam main.
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
    RichieB
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
    edited December 2016
    LOL... that's totally the wrong place for a main vent. It should be at the end of the main. Can't tell if your header really has an equalizer either. Looks like you have dry returns.
    RichieB
  • New England SteamWorks
    New England SteamWorks Member Posts: 1,525
    Looks like counterflow if I explode the pic. Is that the main with the foil insulation? Take a picture of the very end of the main, as well as the piping above the boiler.
    New England SteamWorks
    Service, Installation, & Restoration of Steam Heating Systems
    newenglandsteamworks.com
    RichieB
  • Kahooli
    Kahooli Member Posts: 112
    So. I think I have the same boiler as you. A few people market them as BS2, mine is a Bryant. Notice that your side outlet is 2.5" FIP, elbows into a 2.5:2 bushing into a 2" section then up through a reducer back to 2.5".
    Despite only being a foot or so, it is wrong. I don't know how many sections your boiler is or if it needs it, but there is definitely another main outlet on the other side that could be used.
    Your pressuretrol looks like it's set up pretty high.
    RichieB
  • Danny Scully
    Danny Scully Member Posts: 1,437
    edited December 2016
    Another real issue is your low water cut off. That is not an acceptable location, and I don't believe it's even meant for steam (although I could be wrong). Your boiler should have a tapping for the low water cut off, although I do see a cycle guard. Is there something I'm missing? Is there a remote probe location?
  • Kahooli
    Kahooli Member Posts: 112
    The remote probe tap[ing for this boiler should be under the cover on the left (front) of the boiler. It should be like mine.
    RichieB
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    The water in that sight glass looks pretty nasty too. Is there a skim port on that boiler. Probably needs a good skim.
    RichieB
  • RichieB
    RichieB Member Posts: 4
    This is super Helpful, i appreciate all the comments. I'll try to get some more pictures tonight. I believe it is counterflow (Not there yet in Greening Steam). I did skim out the sediment. as well as turn down the pressuretrol. I'm New to a steam system so i'm just trying to learn as much as i can. I'll get some better photos for ya. Thanks
  • RichieB
    RichieB Member Posts: 4
    I Hope this makes it more clear. I'm beginning to think a bit of the piping near the boiler is done incorrectly. I'd like to eventually do a drop header too, but that's out of my skill level. are you saying a main vent valve should be installed, on an antler, near the Husky tool box? before the risers to the two radiators, or nearer to the boiler itself. And if so, can i tap the main or do i need to put a "T" in for it?





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