How do you 'plumb'

Hilly · July 2016

What are your preferred methods of installing boiler room piping? J-clips, bell hangers, plates rod and split rings, strut channel and cushion clamps, strut/washer/rod/split ring combo...
Do you have preferences for speed and simplicity?
Do you snap caulk lines or have laser levels?
Do you let the 'straight pipe' do its plumbing and eye ball it?
Was shut sizing up a little job and got to thinking about how I'll make it most tidy and got to thinking about all the options and techniques. I thought I'd pose the question.

Maybe some guys are ocd and like cascading valves,circs, zv, etc. Maybe it's all side by side and straight lines. Maybe you wack it all together and toss some supports after the works done.

Tinman · July 2016

Strut with Cush clamps, split rings, and a level.

Tinman · July 2016

Plumb, level, secure, straight, with continuity, easy to service, professional looking.

If it doesn't meet those requirements (my own), it doesn't pass.

hot_rod · July 2016

Strut and threaded rod with ring hangers for hanging from ceilings.

B-Line has a clever new 4 sided strut product, it uses regular strut clamps.

http://www.cooperindustries.com/content/public/en/b-line/brands/4Dimension.html

When I build displays or mount roof top solar I prefer aluminum strut so it doesn't rust on cut ends.

JUGHNE · July 2016

I like to install pipe supports with the assumption that I will almost have to hang on them as I carefully, sometimes without grace, stand on the top forbidden step of a ladder.
Be it EMT, gas pipe, steam pipe, copper pipe (to a certain extend), PVC DWV or PVC gas condensing exhaust.......the ACR I would only grab if my life depended upon it.

Sammie Super Screws and especially the "Sidewinders", using 3/8" rod are common for me. Others might use the infamous "Plumber's Hole Strap" for most of this. But me being lazy, I have found the time required to attempt proper slope with hole strap is outweighed by shooting in a "sidewinder" on perpendicular joists, cutting more length of 3/8" rod than needed and being able to adjust the slope by screwing the rod in or out; up into the floor joist space if needed.
(For me, this is really handy for old steam lines where you have little slope to deal with and minor adjustments are necessary going back and forth to tweak things.)
When parallel with floor joists, I might Torx a 2X 4 across the FJ and still use the side winders or drill holes thru the flat 2X4 for the rod/washers/nuts. I use the light duty "Auto Grip" pipe hangers for 3/8" rod . Also all of this looks better than hole strap which can look *****y in the finished product.

Strut if needed is always good. "Cushy Clamps" if needed. Minerlax conduit hangers are good for pipe that has no expansion issues.

The Dead Men may have installed enough hangers by the book, but after a 100 years that pipe gets a "belly" sag in it just from the weight of the pipe itself. So I usually double up the number of supports from what they might have had.

PinkTavo · July 2016

I call a plumber!

warno · September 2016

Where is the best place to purchase the strut material and clamps?

hot_rod · September 2016

Buy local, usually they sell 10 or 20 foot lengths of strut.

Plumbing wholesalers, HVAC, Refrigeration, Electricial suppliers all have strut. Plumbing and HVAC will have CTS clamps and accessories.

A carbide toothed chop saw is nice way to get a fast clean cut. A porta band or recip saw will work. The abrasive type chop saws tend to burn the paint or plating.

Tinman · September 2016

I agree with Hot Rod. We buy it locally and almost always use
1 5/8". I much prefer using our 120v band saw on strut - like a hot knife through butter. The battery operated ones we have are M12's and I'm just not that patient.

SWEI · September 2016

The M18 compact band saw cuts it like butter. The full sized ones are faster, but I can't one-hand those.

Tinman · September 2016

We usually have a chain pipe vise on the job. We'll lock in the 1 5/8" strut and use two hand also. Thats the only way you'll get a square cut with a large band saw.

I use to have a Porter Cable chop saw and was using the carbide tipped saw blades but they wouldn't last. And at $75 a pop, no thanks. This was 20 years ago.

SWEI · September 2016

Same experience here with carbide blades for metal. We bought an Evolution Rage a few years back that turned out to be very expensive to own. We still use it occasionally for miter cuts, but the band saw saves at least 90% on blades.

hot_rod · September 2016

I have owned this big Dewalt for 15 years, this is the second blade. I've cut steel up to 3" bar stock, all sorts of angle up to 1/4" thick, and even cast iron soil pipe. It doesn't like wood, however. It even fell off my flatbed truck once at 60mph.

You do want to get them up to speed before you start cutting or the teeth can get ripped out. It is a Freud blade.

For copper and aluminum tube, strut, angle, and all plastic pipes I use an old 10" miters saw with a top brand non ferrous blade, maybe the 4th blade. It must be 20 years old now.

I just don't get a nice straight cut with my old Milwaukee porta band and it weighs a ton. Clamping it and using two hands might help. Do you use a square to mark two sides, or just eyeball it?

Tinman · September 2016

We all carry speed squares and if they don't use them, I'll make them re-cut it. I use an old miter saw too for non-ferrous stuff, mostly extruded plates. I had zero success with my chop saw. Always got it up to full speed. I think they were Porter Cable blades? I'd love to use a bench saw for strut and other stuff. I'll get another one and give it a try. Maybe a Diablo blade?

warno · September 2016

Could I get a rough cost on the strut "rails?" and what the 1" cushion clamps might cost me? I found the clamps online but I couldn't find the rail material. I'm just trying to get an idea of what I'm going to be paying. Please and thank you.

hot_rod · September 2016

support you local wholesaler if possible.

The box stores sell it and have$$ info online if you can't find a wholesaler.

warno · September 2016

Ok thank you. We have a local hvac place about 30 min away and we go to the town kind of often. I was going to call them but they were closed so I thought I'd ask here just for an idea.

warno · September 2016

Well it turns out my local wholesaler won't sell to a homeowner, only contractors. The man referred me to home depot or Lowes. I'd rather buy online then pay their 10 times higher prices.

hot_rod · September 2016

I just ordered some aluminum strut directly from the manufacturer. It's hard to find the aluminum strut on the shelves anywhere. Same with fiberglass and stainless and unusual sizes.

Unistrutcincinnati will UPS any type of strut, max 8' lengths. They will cut most any dimension also.

I have them cut a 10 footer in 1/2 to ship.

rory@unistrut.biz

JUGHNE · September 2016

Try a search for "Fastenal Company", they have most of what has been discussed and the few things I have gotten from them have been reasonably priced. They are in the Midwest and maybe elsewhere.

warno · September 2016

I did find the parts on fastnals website and we have a store in the next town. But I talked to a guy at work who helps his brother do HVAC work and he called the local wholesale place with his name and got an order in for me. I'm going to pick it up this afternoon. Thanks for the help and info.

KC_Jones · September 2016

JUGHNE said:
Try a search for "Fastenal Company", they have most of what has been discussed and the few things I have gotten from them have been reasonably priced. They are in the Midwest and maybe elsewhere.

They are all over, I work in Maryland and we have their vending machines in our shop and almost daily deliveries.

warno · September 2016

It may have been said here but, what is the general rule for distance between supports for vertical and horizontal runs of 1" copper pipe?

How do you 'plumb'

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