Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

Outdoor tank piping

chuck172
chuck172 Member Posts: 90
I'll be piping a 275 gallon roth outdoor oil tank to my boiler, 6' below in the basement. I'd like to know if I should go with a two pipe system, or 1. Do I need a shut-0ff valve on the oil tank or will the firematic safety valve at the burner just before the filter be sufficient. Do I need a check valve?
Should I go with the 3/8 od plastic covered soft copper tubing?
I know I'm asking lots of questions, but seems like I'm getting all different information.

Comments

  • spoon22
    spoon22 Member Posts: 32
    1 pipe would work just fine . Yes a valve at tank is good to have especially for service. No check valves needed. And 3/8 soft copper is fine. A tiger loop might help if you have a cold oil situation but as long as all your fittings are air tight it will work fine without one.
  • Robert O'Brien
    Robert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,540
    An OSV would be nice!
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
    SWEIRJMCTAFO
  • chuck172
    chuck172 Member Posts: 90
    Would a firematic valve at the burner filter in the basement be sufficient or would I need a gate valve outside by the duplex fitting?
  • Robert O'Brien
    Robert O'Brien Member Posts: 3,540
    A valve outside would make service easier and is required by some codes. Firematic type
    To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.
  • chuck172
    chuck172 Member Posts: 90
    So I should pipe the firematic valve right at the duplex fitting and I guess a gate valve right before the filter?
  • lchmb
    lchmb Member Posts: 2,997
    put a tigerloop ultra at your boiler...comes with everything you need.. Bring a single line in from the tank and make the connection.
  • spoon22
    spoon22 Member Posts: 32
    No a fireomatic at the duplex and a firematic inside before the filter
  • chuck172
    chuck172 Member Posts: 90
    If I go with a one pipe, a tigerloop before the filter. I guess it comes with a firematic valve.
    Do I need anything outside at the tank?
    Must I use coated fuel line or can I use regular 3/8 soft tubing ?
  • chuck172
    chuck172 Member Posts: 90
    Is a osv such as the SUNTEC PRV-38PF needed with the tigerloop?
  • 776v63
    776v63 Member Posts: 61
    OSV is not "needed" with the tiger loop, unless you local codes require an OSV. The nice thing about them is that they prevent the contents of the tank from siphoning into your basement in the event of a leak. I don't see them used much in my area, but they do serve a purpose.

    I'd go: tank>firomatic>osv>coated 3/8 oil line ran inside>tiger loop ultra>flex hoses>appliance.

    The tiger loop ultra includes a firomatic valve.

    If you're going to run the oil line through concrete, it needs to be coated.
  • chuck172
    chuck172 Member Posts: 90
    I probably was unclear. I'll be piping a 275 gallon tank from outside, to my boiler in the basement. The burner will be 6' below the tank level. Again the tank will be outside. I live in N.E Pa.
    I can see the advantage of the tiger loop to aid in warming the fuel that the burner uses. I shouldn't have an air problem , it will be gravity fed.
    Should I go with a ball valve on the oil supply line coming out the duplex fitting or put a fir-o-matic valve there. Will I need an osv at the burner to prevent a siphon?
    I'm thinking tank (outside) ball valve (outside on top duplex)
    Coated soft copper tubing, Inside tiger loop ultra. Then possibly the osv. Am I o.k with this?
  • 776v63
    776v63 Member Posts: 61
    If you're going to use an OSV, it should be at the tank. An OSV protects everything downstream, so right off the tank is the best spot.

    Installation instructions: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.websterfuelpumps.com/pdffiles/osv1.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwi8or6qxuLMAhUT9mMKHQYuDT8QFggdMAA&usg=AFQjCNGgzW8-PWaJv5qF3_VhYPMn9DzZhA&sig2=pcFnOiyeYoUNLC2DnLJPSg

    I always prefer a firomatic to a ball valve, although based on advice from this forum I install 1 of each, with the ball valve directly upstream of the firomatic.

    A firomatic can still be manually operated. So it provides shutoff capability, and fire protection whereas a ball valve only provides shutoff. The only problem with firomatic is they can get leaky after many years, hence the addition of the upstream ball valve. Makes firomatic replacement much easier.

    Might be a good idea to check your local codes. That will give you a good baseline of what needs to be done. You can add more from there if you like.