Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

former hvac tech having real problems with my thermotron 2 boiler summer/winter hookup.

Options
enalkarion
enalkarion Member Posts: 7
hey guys, i did hvac for 10 years but mostly commercial and not a lot of oil. i started having seizures a year ago so im a liability in the hvac field and my memory's been effected. i had a leak in my in ground tank and a buddy of mine came over while i was gone and rigged up 2 copper lines into a 30 gallon plastic drum to get us by till funds get freed up. now 2 days ago the boiler started puffing back white smoke. i changed nozzle filter and cleaned the flue passages. i also pulled the gun out cleaned the motor blades and the air inlet. chimney was nice and had only a small thin coating of soot and i could see daylight up to the cap ( its a straight run). the flu passages were caked with wet soot. after the initial smokey light off it seems to be running better. tomorrow a former co worker is going to lend me an analyzer and smoke gun to help get things right. i think the boiler being off for 3 days and the wet conditions here in the new the last few days combined with some unburned fuel made the wet soot(my boiler tends to leak water from the dhw coil after the temp drops to ambient . its something im really concerned about. any ideas? also after talking to my flakly buddy he said he made all sorts of adjustments (by eye and sound) which hate hearing. now dont get me wrong, i started with a guy who could do it and when i checked it withe the analyzer he get real close. the burner is a carlin 99 frd. the ko dirt blaster ate the pump markings so im not sure the oil pump make. another question i have is how far should the nozzle assy be in the gun. i have it set to 4 but im not sure how far forward it should be. i always thought it should be close to the end of the burner gun. my nozzle assy does have the retention ring physically on the nozzle assy. also since i cant look up the specs on the pump. i found a small long hex key screw on the pump itself. currently its fully out so im assuming that means max pressure. if anyone could help with what that screw does id be most grateful. i know im shooting for 100 psi on the pump side.

Comments

  • 776v63
    776v63 Member Posts: 61
    Options
    http://www.carlincombustion.com/OEM_SPEC/oem_specs.html

    Download the Carlin oem spec guide at this link. Set up your burner according to the information found for your appliance. Do combustion testing from there.

    You're going to have to get a gauge on that oil pump to set it properly.
  • enalkarion
    enalkarion Member Posts: 7
    edited January 2016
    Options
    thanks for the advice, I actually had water in my tank causing the pump to fail. and a bunch of mix matched parts from the oil company I used before I got into the industry. i set everything back to factory specs, and after a new pump and coupler, and the proper nozzle tube and electrodes, plus adjustments via smoke pump and testo its running quieter and more efficient than it has in years.