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Bryan Boiler

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Bobcat52
Bobcat52 Member Posts: 5
in THE MAIN WALL
I have a re-occuring problem on a Bryan Boiler Model CL120WG1KD1. The system keeps bulding up pressure and pops the 60  psi T&P. Also the expansion tank keeps filling up, even if you drain it all the way out and start up boiler it will fill up the sight glass within 2 days. I was told many different things by Bryan such as, the system is piped on the supply side of the pump instead of the return? Also the expansion tank is too small, but nobody seems to know the way to figure size of tank needed. Anybody got any ideas? Were running it a 140 degrees and the make up water is set at  12 psi.?

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  • Steve_152
    Steve_152 Member Posts: 26
    edited February 2012
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    bryan boiler

    suggest  you may have leak in  diaphragm  in feeder /   start with  replacing  feeder,   see if that  takes care of problem /   they are  fairly  short   money...
  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,853
    edited February 2012
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    Could be a LOT of things....

    I guess one question I would ask, is, has it ALWAYS done this, or is this something new? If it is something new, what changed?



    Here are some basics to look for;



    1. If the tank is a non captive tank (no bladder or diaphragm) then you can NOT have ANY automatic air elimination devices ANYWHERE in the system. If will remove and expel the compressible air cushion normally maintained in the tank.



    2. All pumps should pump AWAY from the point where the expansion tank is connected to the system.



    3. The make up water connection should be connected at or near the expansion tanks connection. If the make up is connected to the inlet side of your pumps, AND the pump is pumping TOWARDS the expansion tank, every time the pump turns on, it creates a negative pressure, and the pressure reducing valve (PRV) will feed water to the low pressure.



    4. If there is a DHW heater as a part of the hydronic system (side arm, indirect) then there is a possibility that the coil in the tank has failed and is allowing the high pressure potable water to bleed through to the low pressure hydronic circuits.



    5. Lastly, it is entirely possible that the PRV has failed and is slowly allowing water into the system. Most of the above problems can be determined by turning of the water to the potential problem area. (make up and DHW).



    Any pictures you can provide of the near boiler piping would be helpful.



    Look for the obvious first, and if not present, move on.



    ME
    It's not so much a case of "You got what you paid for", as it is a matter of "You DIDN'T get what you DIDN'T pay for, and you're NOT going to get what you thought you were in the way of comfort". Borrowed from Heatboy.
  • bob_46
    bob_46 Member Posts: 813
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    Tank

    What ME says plus the valves on the sight glass should be closed when you are not checking the level. Look over the tank real close you may have a small air leak.
    bob
  • Bobcat52
    Bobcat52 Member Posts: 5
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    BRYAN BOILER FIX

    Mark thanks for the help.

    #1-The expansion tank does not have bladder but does have several Auto Vents.

    #2- It  also has the expansion tank tapped right off the top of the boiler and the pump pushing water thru the boiler.

    #3- The make up water is on the inlet side of the pump and expansion tank.

    So I think I have some places to begin fixing. It looks like it needs alot of straightening out.
  • Bobcat52
    Bobcat52 Member Posts: 5
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    Bryan Boiler Fix

    Steve Thanks for the reply. My initial thought was the same, so we recently replaced the auto feeder valve with a new one but still was doing it, this is a old system on a apt. complex and I dont think it was put in by any reputable persons. We have just taken over this complex maintenance and it is a mess. 
  • Bobcat52
    Bobcat52 Member Posts: 5
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    Bryan Boiler Fix

    Tank - Thanks for the feedback I will check those hand valves on the tank.
  • Mark Eatherton
    Mark Eatherton Member Posts: 5,853
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    Sounds like a hydronic train wreck, or the perfect hydronic storm...

    I'd start with the vents first. Eliminate them or close them off. And as bob said, IF you have sight gage on the tank, valves should be in the off position.



    Obviously, the system has worked all these years with the pump and the make up in the wrong position, and I guarantee you it would work a lot better under the utmost ideal of conditions (pumping away from the boiler and the expansion tank) and the make up SHOULD be connected at the expansion tank tapping, but IF you don't have a real high head pump, then it may work OK with the pump and make up where they are.



    Thans for the update, and keep us posted. We like good news.



    ME
    It's not so much a case of "You got what you paid for", as it is a matter of "You DIDN'T get what you DIDN'T pay for, and you're NOT going to get what you thought you were in the way of comfort". Borrowed from Heatboy.
  • RJ_4
    RJ_4 Member Posts: 484
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    exp tank

    Steve and Mark were right on.  If you have a diaphram tank unscrew the small plastic cap at bottom of the tank, underneath is a fitting similar to a tire stem.  push in the core with a small screwdriver or use your thumbnail, If any water comes out the diaphram is ruptured , tank will need to be replaced. This condition will cause boiler overfilling and constant relief valve opening.
    RJ
  • RJ_4
    RJ_4 Member Posts: 484
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    exp tank

    Well I guess I was'nt paying attention, you said you had a guage glass (compression tank ) ,  disregard info on diaphram tank.  Check rubber washers on guage glass, if there leaking and your guage valves are open your tank will overfill.  Also look on top of tank for pinhole leaks. If you have air vents in this system they are for getting air out after refilling after repairs, they must be valved off during oper.
    RJ
  • Bobcat52
    Bobcat52 Member Posts: 5
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    BRYAN BOILER

    Thanks for the info.
This discussion has been closed.

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