Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

adding electroinic oil vave to older pump

jaybir
jaybir Member Posts: 2
is it cheper to add a oil siloned valve to older pump or just buy a new pump

Comments

  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    It's a tough call

    At one time it was cheaper to add the delayed oil valve to the pump, but the price right now is getting close to the cost of a Clean-Cut pump. Depending on the age, I'd do the new pump. I can't remember, but I think the Beckett pump comes with both plugs. One has the built in delay, the other is the basic plug for replacement. 
  • add
    add Member Posts: 94
    seperate valve

    if you are not in the trade i reccomend to install a separate valve,in case the valve goes bad it is easy to replace and bypass it for temporary heat.with a clean cut pump you also need to reset the pump psi. if the valve on the clean cut pump goes bad ,you cannot restore heat by bypassing it ,without a new valve.but i would also consider the price of both items ,cannot help you there i've been out of the field ona a full time base.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    I agree

    if it is installed as a field kit, then you can easily bypass it should it fail. We used to use 1/8" black street elbows and about an 1/8"x 2" nipple to install them. In that case, you have some work to do if it fails, but they rarely do. Sounds like an older burner, and probably running 100 PSI, which is how the new pumps come. I would also recommend someone who knows how to do this, and to set the new pump, if that's the way you go, to what you have now
  • meplumber
    meplumber Member Posts: 678
    I agree with Slo

    There aren't a lot of options for a 1725 oil pump out there anymore.



    Why put in the valve if the pump is holding?
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Older pump:

    I don't agree with meplumber. There IS an option to a 1725 pump.

    REPLACE THE BURNER WITH A NEW ONE!!!! Thew haven't made those things for years. The burner is the engine. Replace the engine. It will pay for itself.

    Carlin EZ-1, Becket Riello, it matters no which. But change it. You don't know what crud you are dealing with until you change it.  
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 16,796
    edited November 2010
    "Why put in the valve if the pump is holding?"

    That's not the point.



    "( besides the slightly cleaner combustion)"



    That IS the point, gentlemen!



    The delay valve cleans up the burner startups by holding back the oil until the motor is up to speed and the air flow, oil pressure and spark are established. It cleans up the shutdowns because it closes instantly, rather than a couple seconds into the motor coast-down period as the cutoff in the pump does.



    With us, we first check the condition of the existing fuel unit. If it holds a steady pressure and the cutoff action is OK, we add a delay valve. if it's bad, we usually install a CleanCut if one will fit; if not we install a new fuel unit and separate delay valve. The fewer connections we have to take apart, the less chance of a leak.



    We also install a primary control with motor-off delay on boilers that are known to have sooting problems like the W-M 68 and Peerless JO series. On other units, if the primary needs replacing we use an electronic type with 15-second trial for ignition.



    If the burner is a non-flame-retention unit, it gets replaced. But if the boiler has a 1725-RPM flame-retention unit like the Beckett SR, and it's properly selected and running well, there's no need to completely replace it. Some older boilers really don't need high-static burners. The proof is in the combustion analysis.



    The result of all this is a burner that will run efficiently throughout the heating season without making smoke or soot. When we go back next year, there's not much brushing and vacuuming to do, and no hunting for the right settings.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • add
    add Member Posts: 94
    older pump?

    in the initial question ,they only mention older pump,not a 1725rpm or 3450rpm.

    i still see a lot of clean cut valves going bad 5 years after the initial install.after the recall we had a few years a go.also due to poor wiring in some homes.
  • billtwocase
    billtwocase Member Posts: 2,385
    solenoid valves

    have been code here for decades. If the pump check fails, wheres the oil going? into the chamber by gravity feed, and as Steam said, it has other pluses as well. A pumps check will open about 85 PSI. Not always the best light off. Why not get it up to full speed and pump pressure then open the door. How can you pre or post purge without one?
This discussion has been closed.