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Basement Heat

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John_82
John_82 Member Posts: 63
in THE MAIN WALL
What about a strap on aquastat on the return? If the return gets too hot (raditaion not giving off any heat because the room is warm) the aquastat would stop the pump. It would be a way of "controlling" a constant circulation zone. I guess youd need to figure out the heatloss of the room & the btu output of the radiator in order to figure out the supply temp (could use a thermostatic mixing valve if diff. from the boiler temp, trying to keep it as constant as possible). Set the aquastat 20 degrees less then the supply (assuming a 20 degree delta-t) & it should work. It sounds alright to me! but I'm just thinking out loud!!

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  • George_26
    George_26 Member Posts: 12
    Basement Heat

    I was given a FHW raditor that work real good when replaced. It's a four column 38" L X 24" H not sure of the BTU's here. However here is my train of thought for a basement that's 25x25. I'd like to run FHW into this from the boiler constantly by using a small pump and no thermostat to call for the boiler to fire up. I already have the basement zone using baseboard but that's not what I want or efficent. Ok any ideas, I'm I out in left field on this. I will double check it for leaks before I do anything too.
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    no controls

    put a line voltage thermostat to at least control the pump. you need something to control the heat if it gets too hot, no ?
  • George_26
    George_26 Member Posts: 12


    Yes good ideas, but I think I'm missing something and I'm probably out in left field. I'd like to try something that's cheap to see if it works out.
  • John_82
    John_82 Member Posts: 63


    line voltage tstat at home depot = $25 +
    Taco 007 = $65

    or

    L6006c strap on aquastat = $60 +
    Honeywell mixing valve = $75 +
    Taco 007 = $65


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