Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!
Broken Water Feeder
Options
Ty
Member Posts: 4
Thank you for all of your assistance. This document has better instructions, including simple trouble shooting steps. http://www.mcdonnellmiller.com/pdf/install_instr/MM-316B.pdf
The SA47-101-102 part costs around $170. The oil company which services my boiler considers this a plumbing problem and does not cover it under the service agreement. They quoted $900 for a new water feeder not including labor. I see online it costs around $435.
Now I'm in the market for a service contract on an antique oil boiler.
The SA47-101-102 part costs around $170. The oil company which services my boiler considers this a plumbing problem and does not cover it under the service agreement. They quoted $900 for a new water feeder not including labor. I see online it costs around $435.
Now I'm in the market for a service contract on an antique oil boiler.
0
Comments
-
Broken Water Feeder
I have what appears to be a McDonnell & Miller Series 47-2 combination mechanical water feeder, low water cut off. The low water cut-off works, the water feeder does not. The feeder was serving a very old oil fired boiler which runs around 77% efficiency (I'm told). I'm not certain if it would be worth replacing the water feeder since they come with a new boiler (correct?).
What price range am I looking at to replace the water feeder?
How bad is 77% efficiency?0 -
Water feeder
What's "broken" about the water feeder? This unit has several serviceable components. If it's older w/round wrench bosses where the piping connects, the needle/seat assy is not replaceable, but the entire valve assy is. The newer style assy w/hex bosses have a replaceable cartridge. Strainer baskets are replaceable. Constipation @ inlet piping to feeder or where piping enters return? Worse senario is replacing entire 47-2 and finding the problem was somewhere else...HOHOHO.0 -
If I leave the inlet water valve open to the water feeder (not the manual filler supply line) the water feeder does not close, it continues to let the water level rise.
I'll check the connections. What is the needle/seat assembly? I'm assuming the valve inside the feeder is corroded, clogged or just dirty. Is it serviceable?0 -
Water feeder
The needle/seat is the stopper assy for the valve. Yes, they wear out and give the problem you're having. Again, if the wrench bosses where the water lines connect are smooth/round, you have the old style assy and the n/s is no longer available. But the entire valve assy is available and it has a serviceable cartridge. New style has hex bosses @ pipe connections. The unit replaces by removing the (4) screws about 2" above the piping connection and removing the cotter key/pin @ the float mechanism. Assy # is SA47-101-102.0 -
I have the 'New style ... hex bosses @ pipe connections'. Is this a DIY job?0 -
DIY
Not sure what you know. You need McD/M p/n CTRD-101 which is the cartridge and strainer assy. Remove 4 bolts @ bottom of your unit below the pipe fittings and pull down on the basket. You'll need a deep-well socket maybe 3/4"(?) to remove the cartridge which is up inside the feeder. Open the water for a bit to flush out the valve body, shut off the water and install the new cartridge. It's taken me longer to type this than it does to do it. Any instructions in the catalog attachment I sent you?0 -
God Luck
"Now I'm in the market for a service contract on an antique oil boiler"
Not many companies will issue a service agreement on plumbing parts especially an "old" system. We check systems from top to bottom and will not cover certain parts unless replaced first. It is no different than trying to get life insurance with prexisting medical conditions. I would fill the system manually and save up for a new boiler. Your description of old plus a 77% combustion efficiency are indications that it is time for an upgrade.
Good Luck,
Leo0 -
Charles G. gave you
the answer. The poppet in the 47 Cartridge Assembly is probably crudded up & won't open. The replacement cartridge is CTRD-101 (McDonnell P/N 310453). Price is about 1/2 that of the 47-101-102.
You need a 1/2" wrench for the bottom strainer bolts & a 13/16" socket w/ extention to remove & replace the cartridge. Comes w/ a new strainer, bolts, & lubricant for the cartridge O-rings. Have fun.
0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 87.3K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.2K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 61 Biomass
- 429 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 120 Chimneys & Flues
- 2.1K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.8K Gas Heating
- 115 Geothermal
- 166 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.7K Oil Heating
- 77 Pipe Deterioration
- 1K Plumbing
- 6.5K Radiant Heating
- 395 Solar
- 15.7K Strictly Steam
- 3.4K Thermostats and Controls
- 56 Water Quality
- 51 Industry Classes
- 50 Job Opportunities
- 18 Recall Announcements